Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz
You must code out the warm/cold checks. I found that you don't need to code 'Is LED' to active, but you might as well. With halogen the voltage to the lamps isn't constant, it's modulated to reduce power consumption. You can't see it, as halogens create light by heating the filament, and the filament can't cool enough between voltage pulses for there to be any flickering. The same is true with your house lights, which isn't a constant voltage, it changes 50 or 60 times per second. An OEM LED might flicker with that pulse modulated voltage, much like warm and cold checks, my guess is that the 'Is LED' option is to change the voltage to constant to prevent that. The retrofit LED bulb ballasts smooth out the pulse modulated voltage, so they don't flicker when not set to 'Is LED'.
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Does the coding mean that I can skip the whole canbus "dongle" use that I sometimes see or is that now obviated by software mods? Thanks for the help.