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      11-07-2021, 11:41 PM   #14
///Makis
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Drives: BMW 128i
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Piscataway, NJ

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 08SlowE82 View Post
Drive shaft: Check flex disc, u joints , center bearing and center bearing carrier

Cv axel : check the boots see if they are torn, leaking "make noises when turning? Clicking or knocking sound"

All these things can be referenced on the inter webs/ YouTube. Hope this helps
Thanks for the explanation! Will you go a bit more into what to look for in the driveshaft? I did watch a few videos on YouTube, maybe I'm not watching the right one, but they don't go into much detail aside from "some play"... Being that it's a 2 piece shaft with a universal joint, some degree of play will definitely be there. At what threshold would it a problem? Especially the center bearing, should there be any play?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Makis View Post
I had a similar problem with one of my coils. It didn't fail completely it was sort of gradual and didn't throw a code for a long time. But it was similar to yours at partial throttle when accelerating I would get some pretty strong shakes like a misfire but no codes until one cold day getting on the highway it happened and I decided to accelerate harder and it ended up throwing a ces.

Did you change coils also 6k miles ago or just plugs?

Have you changed or cleaned your vanos solenoids recently? Or the vanos filters?

Honestly it sounds like a coil that's on its way out like mine.

When you checked the coils did you see if there's any cuts or tears along the sides of the coils? I noticed on two of my coils that failed there was a small tear along the sides. I don't know if it was related or can cause an issue but my reasoning was maybe the coil wasn't holding a charge because the metal inside was touching or near the metal of the spark plug tube. I have no evidence or info to support that, it's just what I assumed happened because both failed ones had something similar.
Both my coils and plug were replaced around 6K miles ago. There's no crack on the coil, still looks new. The plugs does not look like there's any wear at all.

I did get a misfire one time in cylinder 3 with code, but when I swapped the coil to cylinder 2, there was no more issue since. I just chalked it up to not reinstalling it properly when I did my valve cover gasket and MILVS because when I swap to cylinder 2, I took great car in getting all the air out and seating it by twisting it as much as I can. Guess I can try to swap it back to cylinder 3 and see what happens. If that throws a code, I can replace that coil or plug....

Nope, did not touch the vanos solenoid or filter. Getting mixed information on the solenoid being cleanable or a straight up replacement part. Didn't want to risk having to replace it by taking it out and messing with it. As my car is only 14K mile, didn't think it warrants it.
There's no harm with taking it out and cleaning it up a bit with brake cleaner or another cleaner of choice, you can use gasoline / petrol or mineral spirits, I dunked mine in a cup of kerosene or naftha, I can't remember which one and stirred it around till I thought it was clean and then cleaned them out with brake cleaner and then more gas to make sure I didn't get any brake cleaner in the engine area. Don't think it would hurt anything but I'd rather err in the side of caution. If you decide to clean them out I'd say be very careful that you pull out the rubber o ring and do not drop it, it's a PITA to find if you do, and you cannot readily find them at the usual auto parts or hardware store.

The vanos filters are difficult to get to, you can find videos on YouTube but they are on the passenger side of the engine in a spot that you cannot see so you need to find them by feeling around.

I don't think those are your problem per se but it's possible they are on their way out and not actuating correctly.

Like someone else said try to keep it sputtering till it throws a code, I realize it's hard to do that but try pushing the gas harder when it's doing that or let off and then hit the gas or some combination to make it throw a code, otherwise we're just throwing darts at a pic of an engine on the wall and hoping whatever it hits is the right answer. The alternative is the expensive route of just changing everything until the problem goes away
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