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09-21-2013, 09:07 PM | #1 |
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Need my 4th set of rotors in 1.5 yrs!
I just did 1 day of a 2 day track event and skipped the last run group. 1/2 way through I started to get shake in my steering wheel when I brake hard.
I am on my 3rd set of rotors already and this set it only about 4 months old. I spoke with people at the track and I was told things like maybe a rotor is getting stuck as well as I was told that if I use the breaks after the cool-off lap and hold them that might be causing the issue as well. So any feedback or ideas on how this is happening would be appreciated. Also since I very well might be purchasing a new set of front rotors I was hoping for some advice on what to purchase. I was thinking of OEM rotors with Pagid Dark Blue pads, Stop Tech brake lines, and Motul brake fluid. I was planning on keeping the rear stock. ANy feedback is appreciated. |
09-21-2013, 11:02 PM | #2 |
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If you are tracking a lot, as Lute said. If you are I assume you aren't applying your handbrake in between sessions? If you are, don't.
If you aren't tracking much then you have a problem and should go see your dealer. |
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09-21-2013, 11:49 PM | #5 |
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After every track session I needed to get the stock rotors done as they would vibrate. Just got sick of that and got a BBK (StopTech 380/365 cross drilled rotors). I run street pads on the ST BBK and it's more than enough for the track. Have never had any vibration even after a 100 degree track day at Big Willow (fastest track out West) beating the snot out of the brakes.
So yeah, another vote for a BBK.
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09-22-2013, 12:59 AM | #6 |
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I had the same issue even after upgrading lines, pads, and fluid.
The stock brakes get extremely hot when pushed to the limit. One day my front wheel actually caught on fire! After replacing the rotors once and then the same thing happening again I said F it and went for the BBK. So much more stopping power and they never even break a sweat. If your tracking hard BBK really is worth it... ~Axis
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09-22-2013, 07:48 AM | #7 |
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Did you bed the brakes as described here? If not, your rotors may wear very fast, especially, when you use them on track. This would apply as well, if you get new rotors...
It sounds as if you are using the stock brakes on track events. If you take that seriously, you should at least use the M3 race pads from BMW, which have less wear (and squeal like a pig in day-to-day driving).
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09-22-2013, 12:19 PM | #9 |
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BBK
Do not put handbrake up (our cars go into park once turned off, not like SMG M5) Bed your brakes in, worst thing you can do is put a new set on and go straight to the track. |
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09-22-2013, 12:24 PM | #10 | |
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09-22-2013, 12:40 PM | #11 |
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+1, what are you saying, that you ran your rotors to minimum in 2 track days, warped them? the shake you feel is pad deposits. your rotors are fine. i didnt pass a tech inspection mine were so bad and just ran track pads on them and shake went away and used them all the way to minimum thickness. as others have said dont use your handbrake in the pits, you must do a cool down lap, and i add extra time driving around the pits if needed to cool further.
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09-22-2013, 12:50 PM | #12 | |
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09-22-2013, 12:55 PM | #13 | |
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09-22-2013, 01:26 PM | #15 | ||
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Use the right track pads, with plenty of meat on them and your system will hold up great. No need for BBK. But if you makes you feel better, go for it. If you were using stock brake pads, thats your problem. |
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09-22-2013, 02:11 PM | #16 | |
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09-22-2013, 03:07 PM | #17 |
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Performance Friction Direct Drive rotors are supposed to be a little better, but unfortunately there is no hard data on that. Due to their construction, they are supposed to be less prone to warping, but who knows. The stock rotors are quite good, but in my lame opinion the aluminum hat covers too much from the cooling vanes of the rotor. If you look on the back side of your rotor, you will see what I mean.
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09-22-2013, 03:32 PM | #19 | |
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09-22-2013, 03:38 PM | #20 | |
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09-22-2013, 03:45 PM | #21 | |
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Go toss an S/C on your car, reach 155mph on the back straights of your track and brake hard (really hard) on a hot day. Then couple that with a downhill braking at 100+ and a couple other hard braking zones mixed in for fun. Then do that 15 times around the track. When your stock brakes (even with upgraded pads) start vibrating and then your brake pedal hits the floor at ~ 120mph and you need to downshift hard and pull the ebrake to avoid going off the track into a pile of boulders you will find out real quickly the need for a BBK.
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09-22-2013, 03:48 PM | #22 |
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Images of my front drivers rotor
I am starting to wonder if it is deposits as well.
I am trying to determine if I should get some Pagid Sport pads for track/street use and I am thinking if it is deposits those pads would get rid of the deposits. Here are some pictures of what my rotors look like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/caseyme...7635774625134/ This is after washing the car and I took a pressure washer (with a 40 degree head) to the rotors. |
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