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      03-30-2014, 10:51 AM   #1
TheRuss
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Rear disc rotor install?

Hi folks,

Does anybody know of a rear disc rotor install DIY for the 135i? I can't find one at all and have no idea if it's an easy or difficult job...?

Thanks in advance!
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      03-30-2014, 11:10 AM   #2
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Find one for the 3-Series. It should very similar if not the same. There's nothing special about how the rotors are mounted to the car, it's just a few bolts, the brake pad carrier and depending on which side your working on, the brake sensor. It's a pretty straightforward and relatively simple job to do.
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      03-30-2014, 12:17 PM   #3
TheRuss
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I presume the calipers need to be removed then? I know you can do the rear pads without removing them, but I'm guessing it'll be too tight to get the rotor itself out without removing them?
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      03-30-2014, 01:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
I presume the calipers need to be removed then? I know you can do the rear pads without removing them, but I'm guessing it'll be too tight to get the rotor itself out without removing them?
Please watch some videos about doing brakes before you do your brakes. If you are asking this question I'm slightly worried for you and your car. Youtube "brake job DIY" and there will be about 10 billion videos to help guide you. Not much changes between cars. If you search this forum, e90 forums, e46 forums, for "brake DIY" you will get dozens of detailed DIYs which will give you more BMW-specific information. Lastly, if you don't feel comfortable doing this job please ask someone who is comfortable for some help. If you get stuck in the middle or something, PM me or text me or call me and I can walk you through what's holding you up. Last thing you (or anyone here) want is your brakes not working.

Remember not to have the emergency brake set when you are attempting to remove your rear brakes.

GL.
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      03-30-2014, 01:10 PM   #5
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Me and my brother did a rear rotor and brake pad change on his 335i. It was pretty straight forward. Like others have said tho, watch some YouTube videos about it to get an idea about how to do it
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      03-30-2014, 01:23 PM   #6
TheRuss
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Ok, thanks. FWIW, I've changed all the pads before and installed things like downpipes by myself, so I'm at least semi capable.

Does anybody have a torque figure for the rear caliper bolts?
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      03-30-2014, 03:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Ok, thanks. FWIW, I've changed all the pads before and installed things like downpipes by myself, so I'm at least semi capable.

Does anybody have a torque figure for the rear caliper bolts?
Pulled this from E90Post:

front pad carrier to steering knuckle 81 ft-lb
rear pad carrier to wheel bearing carrier 50 ft-lb
brake caliper to pad carrier 22 ft-lb
brake fluid hose to caliper 18 ft-lb
brake fluid hose to steel line 9 ft-lb
road wheel to hub 87 ft-lb
front bleeder screw 9-13 ft-lb
rear bleeder screw 5-8 ft-lb
brake rotor mounting screw 12 ft-lb
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      03-31-2014, 04:46 AM   #8
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Great, thanks!
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      04-16-2014, 05:03 PM   #9
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Ok, so I did the fronts on Sunday, just need to do the rears now. Dies anybody know if the rear discs just come straight off with the handbrake released, or is it still necessary to wind the adjusters off a bit as well? I'm just worried about adjusting it back incorrectly. Thanks.
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      04-16-2014, 06:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Ok, so I did the fronts on Sunday, just need to do the rears now. Dies anybody know if the rear discs just come straight off with the handbrake released, or is it still necessary to wind the adjusters off a bit as well? I'm just worried about adjusting it back incorrectly. Thanks.
You can pull it off w/out needing to touch the adjusters.
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      04-17-2014, 06:34 AM   #11
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Great, thanks. I was quite surprised how easily my front discs came off - no hammering required, they just came straight off once I undid the retaining screw.
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      04-17-2014, 07:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
You can pull it off w/out needing to touch the adjusters.
Probably ...

Unless you use your hand brake often while in motion, in which case a step in the drum might keep you from pulling the rotor off. In which case you will need to back off the adjuster, which you will need to adjust again anyway for the new rotor. Best to be prepared just in case.

The attached picture shows where to find the adjuster (1 o'clock on the LH side, 11 o'clock on the RH side). It is accessible through the bolt hole with a flat screwdriver, so you need to pull a stud if you are using wheel studs. If you have to loosen the adjuster to get the rotor off, it is easy enough to adjust for the new drums. Tighten until the brake comes on, then back off a few clicks (I think 3 or 4 is the recommendation, but you can judge by your hand brake motion).

Name:  RH Rear Adjuster.jpg
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      04-17-2014, 08:49 AM   #13
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Superb, thanks. When you say 3 - 4 clicks, I presume the adjuster actually clicks as it rotates to indicate the setting? My worry is creating an uneven bias between the rears, not that I guess it'd make much difference, but I'd like both brakes to be firmly engaged when the handbrake is up - don't want the car rolling away if I park on a hill!
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      04-17-2014, 08:57 AM   #14
TheRuss
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Also, how is the caliper held on? I presume it's just a couple of bolts and is quite easy to get free?
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      04-17-2014, 09:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Superb, thanks. When you say 3 - 4 clicks, I presume the adjuster actually clicks as it rotates to indicate the setting? My worry is creating an uneven bias between the rears, not that I guess it'd make much difference, but I'd like both brakes to be firmly engaged when the handbrake is up - don't want the car rolling away if I park on a hill!
Leave it in gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Also, how is the caliper held on? I presume it's just a couple of bolts and is quite easy to get free?
Caliper is held on by 2 guide pins...just like the front. Remove the dust covers and you'll see them.

The caliper carrier is also held by 2 bolts. Both easy to locate and remove
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      04-17-2014, 01:05 PM   #16
TheRuss
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Ok, thanks. Hopefully should be on by the end of Saturday.
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      04-17-2014, 01:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Superb, thanks. When you say 3 - 4 clicks, I presume the adjuster actually clicks as it rotates to indicate the setting? My worry is creating an uneven bias between the rears, not that I guess it'd make much difference, but I'd like both brakes to be firmly engaged when the handbrake is up - don't want the car rolling away if I park on a hill!
If you look closely at the picture you will see a spring very close to the adjuster. It engages the notches in the adjuster, which serves as a series of detents. When I say one click, I mean one notch on the adjuster. You can feel the spring engaging in each notch as you turn the adjuster.

The Bentley service manual for the E9x 3-series says to turn the adjuster until the wheel can no longer be rotated and then back it off by 9 notches (not 3 as I suggested earlier). If you do the same on both sides the rear parking brakes will be balanced.
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      04-17-2014, 01:50 PM   #18
TheRuss
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Superb, thanks so much for your help. I feel much better about doing this now.
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