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      04-03-2011, 11:14 AM   #1
Lotus7
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Changing tires on a X3(F25)

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      04-03-2011, 11:24 AM   #2
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Excellent write-up Lotus, particularly the lift pads. I'll be picking some up, including the wheel hangers!
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      04-03-2011, 11:34 AM   #3
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This is fantastic, thank you! The best detailed instructions I've seen. Much appreciated!
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      04-03-2011, 11:54 AM   #4
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You, sir, are a jewel of the X3 community.
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      04-03-2011, 12:11 PM   #5
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We should have a X3 DIY Sticky. Excellent write up with pics Lotus!!! .
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      04-03-2011, 11:55 PM   #6
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Counterclockwise to loosen! Who'd a thunk it?
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      05-26-2011, 01:44 PM   #7
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Very nice write up.

What are the best spots for the jack stands?
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      05-26-2011, 02:54 PM   #8
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If you plan to change out your tiers be careful to pick a tire shop who can handle RFT sins RFT's require proper tools, if not they probably ruin your rims.
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      05-27-2011, 12:55 AM   #9
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Lotus7 was putting on winter wheels/tires, as far as I can tell.
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      05-27-2011, 05:41 AM   #10
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Excellent instructions, didn´t know you had to have jack point tool, will order it right away, and a couple of wheel hangers. Besides, Lotus7, what make of jack do you use? Which lifting height is necessary to get enough clearance from floor/ground when changing tyres?

Last edited by Bimmer65; 05-27-2011 at 06:06 AM..
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      05-27-2011, 01:39 PM   #11
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Lotus7 - where are the proper points to use jack stand? What model of jack stand do you use?

I have not used jack stand on my 5. I just use a floor jack (3.5 ton from Costco) to jack it up and change the tires, hoping it won't come crashing down.
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      05-28-2011, 03:34 PM   #12
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Nice write up Lotus. I've looked for a good 17mm deep socket with plastic or teflon coating but can never find one as a single. Any suggestions? I keep mine wrapped with electrical tape as a poor boy's substitute.

I also notice right away that the M Sport wheels have a much deeper lug bolt well, a deeper socket may be required.
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      05-30-2011, 02:06 AM   #13
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Lotus7 - thanks for the information.

I use the Costco floor jack (Arcan model) 3.5 ton. The thing is almost 100 lb, so it seems safe, but I still need to get 2 jackstands.

I use the sockets from Tirerack. The ones shown above seem to have better quality.
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      05-30-2011, 11:03 AM   #14
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@Lotus7 -I have learned so much about the X3 from reading your posts, and my vehicle is not even in production yet! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
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      06-01-2011, 09:58 AM   #15
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Thanks 1000 times Lotus7.

Getting my new X3M this coming Friday and for teh first time I am ahead on this info.

My wife driaves a 323 and was using a fitted wood block as the lifting jack point.

Do you know if the X3 would fit a 323 (2007) or were I could find that information?

Thanks again for that valuable information
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      06-05-2011, 01:47 PM   #16
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I wanted to clean the insides of the alloy wheelrims of my F25 this weekend and used 2x 3-ton bottle jacks - one front and one rear on same side. The top round part of this type of jack fits quite nicely into the jacking point. I also could not see any proper places for inserting a jack stand - and first observed for 30 minutes whether the bottle-jacks would fail or not - but they did not lower in any way. I like the quality of the plug and the wheel-hangers - they seem almost made of stainless steel. In metric the required torque for final fastening is 120Nm - obtained from my firendly tyre dealer (as the manual does not quote this figure) - which converts to 88.5 lb-ft. Thank you for sharing - especially the photo's. When using the bottle-jack - especially at front - beware the door-mirror - which is right above your head !!
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      06-05-2011, 02:39 PM   #17
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Hi Lotus7,

The jack pad I purchased for my f25 also fits my MY11 Z4, e89. So you can add that model to your list too!

Dave

"The X3 uses the same size jack point (and therefore the same jack point tool) as the 3-Series sedans and coupes:

ie: The X3 is the same as:
E-46 chassis
E-90 chassis (sedans)
E-91
E-92
BUT NOT the E-93 convertible"
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      07-01-2011, 11:37 AM   #18
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I've ordered the jack point tool, the wheel hangers, and the deep protected socket set. I've been changing wheels without a jack point for some time (just have to be sure the jack has an oversized lift tray and all four corners are inside it) but have been meaning to do it properly for some time. The wheel hangers will be handy for hefting the X5's 285/45/19's on!

Lotus7 - you should be receiving your commission check any time now.
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      10-23-2011, 12:09 PM   #19
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Again, excellent write-up sir. I am about to rotate my tires for the first time on the F25, and hoping that I can rest the vehicle on the front jackstand entirely so that I can also raise the rear.... BMW sucks when it comes to the concept of changing tires and even worse for rotation - when you need both off simultaneously. Of course, they would respond with "we recommend against rotating your tires".... yeah... that's fine for a staggered package but they must be getting a piece of the action on tires.
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      10-24-2011, 03:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
All my wheels are marked with the original installation location. When I change back to summer tires each spring, each rear tire goes to the front (always on the same side, always the same direction of rotation. The next season, I do the same with the winter tires. I paint the original location, .i.e. RF, RR, LF, LR on the inside of a spoke on each wheel using green touch-up paint. Front/rear rotation is done each spring and each fall regardless of mileage.
If you have fixed rotation, ie. rotation marks on your tyres, you only need to mark "front or rear" to tyres. It is unnecessary to add side (left or right), since rotation dictates that.

I did the same markings for long time until I noticed I can save my time a little

Of course if someone else is doing the change, it might be good to have sides marked as well. One can see quite often parked cars with tyres rotating wrong...
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      10-24-2011, 06:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7 View Post
I have raised the X3 using (2) jacks and (2) jack point tools on the same side. That works fine, but you do need two jacks.

I've used the inner lower suspension pivot ears for a front jack stand location, but still have not found a rear location that looks acceptable.
I'll be mounting the winter tires again around Dec. 1, unless it snows here before.

Don't forget to use a torque wrench to tighten those lug bolts (89 lbs/ft.)!

All my wheels are marked with the original installation location. When I change back to summer tires each spring, each rear tire goes to the front (always on the same side, always the same direction of rotation. The next season, I do the same with the winter tires. I paint the original location, .i.e. RF, RR, LF, LR on the inside of a spoke on each wheel using green touch-up paint. Front/rear rotation is done each spring and each fall regardless of mileage.
I used that same front location for the front jack stand - and I actually let the weight of the vehicle rest on them while I moved the jack to the rear. I do have access to two jacks, but really wanted to be able to do it with one. I did. I tested the load carefully first (as carefully as one can) before committing to letting the stand bear the weight. It seems to have done fine. But for the rear - I see nothing that would make me confident to bear the weight alone.

I hate to have to let my dealer rotate my wheels for me and prefer to do it myself. But the engineers seem to think we should let the dealers to it. I also track each wheel according to it's original location and follow a similar pattern. On the X5 where I swap summer/winter I do exactly the same thing you do for the winter, but the summer set is staggered - so they always go back where they were.

I torqued to 91 actually... figuring with the margin of error I'd rather be tight than loose for this first time. I plan to check them in a week and see that they are still at proper torque.
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      10-24-2011, 10:43 AM   #22
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If you have a good hydraulic Jack, who needs any other jack under a car, it's not like your working under it is it?.
I changed my X6 wheels without all this special tools lark, just jack it up on the plastic bit and away you go.
Yes the wheels can get heavy the X6 wheels were 44Kg each, but you juggle the jack hight till the wheel only just touches the ground and ease the wheel into place. Then just bolt it up, I torque all my alloy BMW wheels too 120Nm. Never had a problem.
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