Today I installed the megan racing bar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Front...53.m2763.l2649
To answer my own question above, it does not require removal or trimming of the 'ecu cover' panel which is just to the side of the driver's side strut tower. There isn't much clearance between the mounting bracket on that tower and the ecu cover, but it fit fine. 2nd pic shows the driver's side mount sitting atop the ecu cover.
These bars are t6 aluminum and can be found on ebay for ~85$ at the moment. An outstanding deal compared to most of the others which run ~175 for steel and 275$ for aluminum.
I did have to unclip the wire bundles which run along the front of the strut towers on both sides because the bar mounting plates stick out over the edges of the towers just enough that they get hung up on those wires. I relocated each wire bundle from the top side to the underside of its existing clip point and used a zip tie to secure it. Once that was done it was an easy bolt on job.
I do wonder if it would be better to have longer bolts for the strut tower mounts now, because the added thickness of the bar mounting brackets means the bolts don't thread in as far. Those of you who are running strut bars- did you use longer bolts or stick with the stock? I counted about 5-6 full turns of thread in until they were tight (plus another 1/2-3/4 turn to reach the torque spec) vs about 8-9 turns without the bar brackets installed. No additional hardware is supplied with the bar so I assume they expect you to reuse the stock. I tried removing the washers from the stock bolts to replace them with slimmer ones, but they don't seem to want to come off easily and I didn't want to risk damaging those bolts without any replacements on hand. It almost looks as if they are fixed on the section of the bolt which is unthreaded and aren't meant to slide off over the threaded section without causing damage.