[Nmelche]

Today I checked for codes and got a 2d06 code on my 2008 328xi. Any ideas what might have caused this? Doesn’t seem to be affecting anything. Thanks in advance.

[Hart23]

did you ever solve this? im currently going through the same thing. im idling very poorly and stalling. dont want the dealership to "troubleshoot"

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Hart23

...im currently going through the same thing. im idling very poorly and stalling. dont want the dealership to "troubleshoot"

"I'm having the same problem" posts to a thread that is more than a year old seldom get any helpful Replies.

I would suggest stating EXACTLY what your issue is, complete with as many DETAILS as you can provide related to the following:

1) What Fault Codes are you seeing, and WHAT Scan Tool or Software was used to read those Codes?

2) What Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available to Read Fault Codes, Clear Codes, Read Freeze Frame Data, or read Parameters such as Mass Air Flow or Fuel Trim (O2 Sensor signals)?

3) When did the Rough Idle and Stalling begin?

3a) What Warning Lights or icons appear on the Instrument Cluster when you experience Rough Idle or Stalling?

4) What work was done under the hood in the days BEFORE those symptoms began?

5) Have you had the Breather Heater Recall performed, or is that being done in Canada?

6) If you do NOT have a Scan Tool or the ability to read codes, is there any Parts Chain or shop near you that offers that service?

7) Try disconnecting the MAF Sensor Connector (on the firewall side of the Air Filter Housing, on the air duct leading to the Intake) and see if that makes the idle smoother.

Although it COULD be other things, the 1st suspect is a "Vacuum Leak," or air that is "UN-metered" by the MAF, entering the Intake Manifold, causing a LEAN condition which can be verified by Fault Codes (Too Lean O2 Sensor Fault) or Fuel Trim Parameters. There are some old-school tests for vacuum leaks.

Let us know the answers to the questions above, and someone can help.

George

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Hart23

did you ever solve this? im currently going through the same thing. im idling very poorly and stalling. dont want the dealership to "troubleshoot"

Try reseating your MAF connector at the air box, and see if it fixes your symptoms for a few days, until it gets unseated again from vibration.

If reseating fixes the symptoms, clean up the connector pins and MAF side pins with electrical contact cleaner spray real good. If after it gets fixed and then after a few days or week it comes back again, replace the connector. Search for a thread on 2D06 on this. That had been so far for '06 N52 E90's though, but who knows. It is easy to try and rule that out.

[Hart23]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

"I'm having the same problem" posts to a thread that is more than a year old seldom get any helpful Replies.

I would suggest stating EXACTLY what your issue is, complete with as many DETAILS as you can provide related to the following:

1) What Fault Codes are you seeing, and WHAT Scan Tool or Software was used to read those Codes?

2) What Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software do you have available to Read Fault Codes, Clear Codes, Read Freeze Frame Data, or read Parameters such as Mass Air Flow or Fuel Trim (O2 Sensor signals)?

3) When did the Rough Idle and Stalling begin?

3a) What Warning Lights or icons appear on the Instrument Cluster when you experience Rough Idle or Stalling?

4) What work was done under the hood in the days BEFORE those symptoms began?

5) Have you had the Breather Heater Recall performed, or is that being done in Canada?

6) If you do NOT have a Scan Tool or the ability to read codes, is there any Parts Chain or shop near you that offers that service?

7) Try disconnecting the MAF Sensor Connector (on the firewall side of the Air Filter Housing, on the air duct leading to the Intake) and see if that makes the idle smoother.

Although it COULD be other things, the 1st suspect is a "Vacuum Leak," or air that is "UN-metered" by the MAF, entering the Intake Manifold, causing a LEAN condition which can be verified by Fault Codes (Too Lean O2 Sensor Fault) or Fuel Trim Parameters. There are some old-school tests for vacuum leaks.

Let us know the answers to the questions above, and someone can help.

George

Started noticing a rough idle for a few weeks but no issues driving. one day while driving I stalled out. ran codes with my carly (i know not the best scanner) and got 2e85 electric coolant pump comm. (dont think thats directly related) 2a82 Inlet vanos (I removed and cleaned my solenoids the next day) 2a98 crankshaft intake camshaft (code cleared and never showed up again)

once I cleaned the solenoids and still had a much bad idle I took it to the stealership (needed an oil change anyways so I figured I would let them have a look) they found a damaged oil filter 'cage' and replaced the cap and cage on my oil filter and we assumed that was the cause of my issue. they also performed the breather heater recall (in canada)

drove the car home and stalled again near my house. So I ran my codes again and now I am getting 2E85 (coolant pump still) 2D06 mass air system and 2DED power management codes (new stereo installed a few months back, is this a serious or related issue???).

so now I am hoping cleaning or adjusting or maybe replacing my MAF sensor will help fix my headache. I like the idea of disconnecting it and seeing if that helps, then cleaning and reinstalling.

Thanks in advance for your expertise in these matters

[Hart23]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Try reseating your MAF connector at the air box, and see if it fixes your symptoms for a few days, until it gets unseated again from vibration.

If reseating fixes the symptoms, clean up the connector pins and MAF side pins with electrical contact cleaner spray real good. If after it gets fixed and then after a few days or week it comes back again, replace the connector. Search for a thread on 2D06 on this. That had been so far for '06 N52 E90's though, but who knows. It is easy to try and rule that out.

I'll try this right away. sounds like it can at least rule something out...hopefully its the fix!

[Hart23]

Rough idle is 90% gone with MAF disconnected. I took it out and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. Put it back in and the problem immediately returned. To me this says replace the MAF. Could it be a bad wiring harness that I’d hope be a lot less expensive??? Also can I drive it with the sensor disconnected short term, 2-3 days??

[panamahat]

Originally Posted by Hart23

Rough idle is 90% gone with MAF disconnected. I took it out and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. Put it back in and the problem immediately returned. To me this says replace the MAF. Could it be a bad wiring harness that I’d hope be a lot less expensive??? Also can I drive it with the sensor disconnected short term, 2-3 days??

Hi. did you get this fixed? I am having the same problem with my 328i 2007. Got the 2D06 fault (air mass system) and the CEL, and thought it was the MAF sensor. First cleaned it out and reinstalled, but no change, Ordered new one, installed, cleared fault, but it came back
Just realized this morning there is a small puddle of oil around the oil cap, seems that its bads and oil leaks out.
Can this be the cause of the fault and the wierd idle?

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Hart23

Rough idle is 90% gone with MAF disconnected. I took it out and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner. Put it back in and the problem immediately returned. To me this says replace the MAF

This conclusion is usually not correct and you end up with two MAFs, one new,one original. If symptom came back immediately after you cleaned contacts and reseated the MAF, that indicates more an unmetered air coming into the engine, somewhere after the Maf. You could have a leak due to cracked valve cover, or the valve cover breather hose internally broken and leaking vacuum, or the pcv membrane at the top if the valve cover rotted and leaking vacuum there.

[panamahat]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

This conclusion is usually not correct and you end up with two MAFs, one new,one original. If symptom came back immediately after you cleaned contacts and reseated the MAF, that indicates more an unmetered air coming into the engine, somewhere after the Maf. You could have a leak due to cracked valve cover, or the valve cover breather hose internally broken and leaking vacuum, or the pcv membrane at the top if the valve cover rotted and leaking vacuum there.

Could it also be a cracked oil cap which leaks oil?

[panamahat]

** SOLVED**
It was the oil cap which did not close properly. Took it out, cleaned it, reinstalled, and got a better seal.. Erased fault, took out for a ride, check engine or the 2D06 did not come back.

[Razv_e90_lover]

Hi,( my first post on a forum, sorry if I missed something or if I wrote too big of a message )

I bought a e92 325i (n52b25) 6 months ago. It ran right and it somewhat still does, but I had the oil filter housing leak and the valve cover leak since. Also during colder weather it had a little bit of white smoke and a sweet smell which most likely was coolant. Right now the coolant level is on the low side, but I plan doing it the same time with the gaskets, the oil change and whatever issue may have triggered the MAF error. In the past 6 months it burned/leaked roughly 4-5 litres of oil ( about 4-5k km).(It virtually changes the oil itself =))))

Today my father took it for a drive and he called to tell me that the car was running low on oil and he had to pour in 3 litres of oil. I was really confused as I check the oil level regularly and yesterday it was on the lower side of normal. Either way, I started the car and the oil level was right below the max level, as I was looking for some obvious the car randomly shut down and gave me a 2D06 code. I started it again, it went to 1000rpm than 500/600 (the normal idle) than it slightly climbed again and than I shut the car down not wanting to risk any further damage.

It is also weird that the tail pipes ( an aftermarket Magnaflow muffler) had black soot and condensation, which I don't remember seeing yesterday, but I could have missed it since I wasn't particularly looking for it. I was planning on taking it next week to a shop for valve cover and oil filter housing gasket replacement.

When I bought the car the service that did the pre-purchase inspection also suggested that I might need to change spark plug number 3 in the future. Moreover I get pretty bad fuel millage something around 15.5 l/100km (~15MPG) which I think is related to mostly doing city driving and revving the car a little higher. (I only mention this hoping it might help someone help me =)))

Any suggestions for what I should check next?


Thank you,
Razvan

[PhaseP]

You have n52b25, the real 325 (2.5 liter) engine.
n52b25 is prone to piston rings and valve stems not sealing issues resulting in oil consumption that n52b30 the 3 liter engine which US got for 325/330/328 models of E90.

excerpt from http://mywikimotors.com/n52b25/ :

"The most common problem in N52B25 is high level of motor oil consumption. This is due to thin oil rings which are carbonized rather fast. At the same time valve stem seals goes out of order rather often. Such problems may occur even after 100,000 km (~60 000 miles) of mileage. The only solution to this problem is replacement of damaged components.
New N52NB25 version did not have such problems. It was firstly introduced in 2007 and has black cap."