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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Front Turbo/Wastegate Actuator access:



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      06-21-2013, 02:42 PM   #1
citg0
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Front Turbo/Wastegate Actuator access:

Replaced all of the vac lining under the hood of my 07 n54, with the exception of the one going to the front wastegate. Following this braided 4mm tube leads me into a crevice that my hand cannot reach.

Is my best bet to throw the car up and go in from beneath? Or am I missing something (smaller hands being the likely culprit)?

I also would like to tighten the actuator rod while I'm in there. Getting some rattle.

Searched and couldn't find anything regarding how exactly the best way to access this is (from above or below). The rear was no problem, since it's right there in plain sight... and definitely not the cause of my rattle.
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      06-21-2013, 03:00 PM   #2
pits200
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Front is pretty much impossible unless you have the hands of a fairy princess.
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      06-21-2013, 04:10 PM   #3
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Front is not possible!!
Necessary to remove turbo...
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      06-21-2013, 04:17 PM   #4
Dave W.
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The front wastegate can be adjusted by removing the 2 bolts that hold the wastegate to the comp housing, then rotate the whole wastegate. Make sure you can loosen the locking nut on the actuator rod first, there's just barely enough room.
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      06-21-2013, 04:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W. View Post
The front wastegate can be adjusted by removing the 2 bolts that hold the wastegate to the comp housing, then rotate the whole wastegate. Make sure you can loosen the locking nut on the actuator rod first, there's just barely enough room.
ha, not possible? schooled!
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      06-21-2013, 04:48 PM   #6
NH335i
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A large contributing factor to waste gate rattle is ware in the actuator bearings.
So you can tighten away but if thats the main reason its more of a replacement issue i believe.
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      06-21-2013, 05:02 PM   #7
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You have to pull the Water pump and thermostat out to perform this adjustment. I've already done it once and going to do it again. Except this time i'm going to change the actuators and the waterpump/thermostat.

Good luck and yes it's possible. Solved my rattle 100%, and it was the front that was way out of adjustment unlike others.
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      06-21-2013, 05:08 PM   #8
Chris_506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NjRep335i View Post
You have to pull the Water pump and thermostat out to perform this adjustment. I've already done it once and going to do it again. Except this time i'm going to change the actuators and the waterpump/thermostat.

Good luck and yes it's possible. Solved my rattle 100%, and it was the front that was way out of adjustment unlike others.
double schooled beotches!
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      06-22-2013, 12:57 AM   #9
Dave W.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NjRep335i View Post
You have to pull the Water pump and thermostat out to perform this adjustment. I've already done it once and going to do it again. Except this time i'm going to change the actuators and the waterpump/thermostat.

Good luck and yes it's possible. Solved my rattle 100%, and it was the front that was way out of adjustment unlike others.
Oh, that's right. I forgot about the water pump and Tstat.
I was able to keep the hoses attached so I didn't have to drain the coolant, I just unbolted the pump from the block, then used a wide variety of extensions and universal joints to reach everything. It was a challenge, but it didn't take too long. The reason I did this procedure was to reduce lag, the wastegate was hanging open from all the wear in the pivot. I tested the amount of vacuum needed to close the wastegate and it was out of spec. It should be around 7-8.
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      06-22-2013, 08:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W. View Post
Oh, that's right. I forgot about the water pump and Tstat.
I was able to keep the hoses attached so I didn't have to drain the coolant, I just unbolted the pump from the block, then used a wide variety of extensions and universal joints to reach everything. It was a challenge, but it didn't take too long. The reason I did this procedure was to reduce lag, the wastegate was hanging open from all the wear in the pivot. I tested the amount of vacuum needed to close the wastegate and it was out of spec. It should be around 7-8.
When I did them my rear wastegate was closing at 10in.hg and the front wouldn't even fully close, not even with 20in.hg. I set them to 5.9in.hg as per the manual and others advise.

I've recently tested them and it seems they are closing around 7in.hg. after another 35,000 since my last adjustment.
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      06-22-2013, 01:05 PM   #11
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What manual are you guys using to the wastegates adjustment ?
I would like to adjust mine just not sure on the procedure or vacuum needed etc
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