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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > When to change car battery?



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      12-01-2013, 03:39 PM   #23
bender rodriguez
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Originally Posted by iDriveanXi View Post
I have 06/2007 328 on original battery and have been getting very slow cranks. I'll be getting a new one tomorrow and have it registered at dealer during the week.
Dealer will rip you off put the battery in yourself and have it register by an indy
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      12-01-2013, 06:19 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by smithrh View Post
Funny this thread should show up now... my 05/2006 330i was cranking a bit slower for the last few weeks, but I figured I had time to change it later.

Nope. Left the car outside (it's normally garaged) in windy 32 deg F conditions for 6 hours and all it would do is click. Had to get a jump. Basically no warning (e.g., no dash light or icon displayed) from the car.

I normally drive this car for at least 30 minutes at a time.

I don't have the gear for calibration so I'll be off to the stealership to get bent over one of these days. I really don't drive the car in winter so I may just leave it parked in the garage until spring though.
Try to find a local coder or go buy a coding cable or get a BT cable... It'll be cheaper in the long run to install and register on your own vs the high cost of stealership... Plus once u have the tools... U can diag a lot more stuff.
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      12-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Seattlesquash View Post
I just changed mine, it had exactly 7 years on it, the white top 90ah one. Never had too much issues but it felt a bit tired... Indicator showed black. Changed to a super start platinum AGM 49PLT I think. I believe that it is the same as the one produced by DEKA. Had independent shop do the programming and starts up way quicker. Happy with the choice, at $179 + tax. Also I think the specs were 92ah, and 170 reserve minutes and 850 CCA vs 720 CCA stock. Sounds like a good time to start thinking of doing it, mine never left me stranded but I knew it was coming at one point!
Mine had 7 years as well before its started to give me problems.

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Originally Posted by Mr.Ritz View Post
Dealer will rip you off put the battery in yourself and have it register by an indy
I got my battery replaced PepBoys for $165 (including taxes, etc). Local indy shop charged me $75 for registering. I could've probably had it done for <$75 had I looked around but its a local shop which I try to support as much as possible.
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      12-02-2013, 03:09 PM   #26
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what's the group size for an e92?
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      12-02-2013, 06:11 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by usmarine9 View Post
what's the group size for an e92?
I just use the AAP recommend battery sizes which meet my RC requirements.
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      12-02-2013, 06:30 PM   #28
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I have the original battery on my 2007. I don't drive the car in the winter. I use a battery tender from Dec-April when the car is put away. The car only gets driven on weekends or when I'm off during the summer so I only have about 16K miles on the car. This means the battery has not seen too many charging cycles. The car is already in storage for the winter so when it comes out on April 1 the car battery will be 7 years old. I have a code reader and get zero codes so the battery must be OK. When the car battery is charged it reads 13.11 volts.

Question: Do I replace it next summer or go another year ???????
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      12-02-2013, 06:38 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by BMWs4ever View Post
I have the original battery on my 2007. I don't drive the car in the winter. I use a battery tender from Dec-April when the car is put away. The car only gets driven on weekends or when I'm off during the summer so I only have about 16K miles on the car. This means the battery has not seen too many charging cycles. The car is already in storage for the winter so when it comes out on April 1 the car battery will be 7 years old. I have a code reader and get zero codes so the battery must be OK. When the car battery is charged it reads 13.11 volts.

Question: Do I replace it next summer or go another year ???????
My car battery is now showing me via the hidden menu selection that my voltage is 11.7v first thing in the morning... When cranking it'll dip to 11.3v and then spike up to 15v... Eventually settling down around 14.5v after about 20 mins of driving. I'm at 76k miles and 6years 1month since its build date.
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      12-02-2013, 06:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobin777 View Post
Mine had 7 years as well before its started to give me problems.



I got my battery replaced PepBoys for $165 (including taxes, etc). Local indy shop charged me $75 for registering. I could've probably had it done for <$75 had I looked around but its a local shop which I try to support as much as possible.
My local Indy shop register it for free. Why did you pay pep boys to install battery. A duralast is only 110
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      12-02-2013, 11:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
Hi All,

So i am on my original car battery which is exactly 6 years old from car production date. I don't have a garage, so no simple way to use a battery tender. I don't want to remove the battery and charge it in the house, because:
1) don't have a garage to secure the car in
2) PITA if the trunk is closed with no car battery and forgetting to drop down rear seats to reach the inside manual release
3) don't trust using the jump points to power the car to pop the trunk & don't want to leave my hood partially open.
4) if i'm doing the effort to pull the battery... Makes no sense to put the old one back in.... Might as well replace.

So the question is... At what point/sign do i bite the bullet and preemptively change it with one from advanced auto parts??

My dealer shows my key read of 11.1v and in the summer i've been 11.55v, i do 25mile trips one way to work (50 round trip) 6 days a week. Currently @ 76k miles and 6yrs old. No battery warnings yet and no random things shutting down. Car seems to fire up a fraction slower than in the summer time.
BMW batteries generally last longer.
My 6yr old 77k miles e93 battery started showing some weakness during the early morning starting. I got it checked, although the battery was not going off soon, but it was not 100% healthy. My car being a convertible, I was more concerned.
Before going on a 5k mile road trip I proactively got it changed.
Cost $550 (AGM) at dealership. I know its higher, but i didnt have time n patience to look for other options.
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      12-03-2013, 12:35 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gds52 View Post
BMW batteries generally last longer.
My 6yr old 77k miles e93 battery started showing some weakness during the early morning starting. I got it checked, although the battery was not going off soon, but it was not 100% healthy. My car being a convertible, I was more concerned.
Before going on a 5k mile road trip I proactively got it changed.
Cost $550 (AGM) at dealership. I know its higher, but i didnt have time n patience to look for other options.
Wow... $550!!! And here i am debating if i should DIY with a $130 battery from AAP
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      12-03-2013, 02:52 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
Wow... $550!!! And here i am debating if i should DIY with a $130 battery from AAP
lol...If you can get the OEM battery for such a little price, then no point of debating...just do it
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      12-03-2013, 04:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by gds52 View Post
lol...If you can get the OEM battery for such a little price, then no point of debating...just do it
Only reason I don't want to is, with the OEM battery the dealer can't go for the easy blame of "oh you changed your car battery with a non-bmw battery" for troubleshooting stuff. So I figure the less I change the less ammo they have to point back at me

That and I'm kinda curious how long this battery will actually last (I've heard some people last 100k+ miles and/or a decade)??
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      12-03-2013, 05:16 PM   #35
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I think time is a bigger factor than milage

I think time is a bigger factor than milage .
Also its actually worse for a battery to sit around in
a low or no charge state.
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      12-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
I just use the AAP recommend battery sizes which meet my RC requirements.
AAP AutoCraft Battery

I wound up buying this battery, which I believe is the same one you were considering on getting. Installed it a couple of hours ago and registered it with the Bavarian Technic Cable. Glad the owner gave me the cable when I bought the car from him! So it is all done finally, hopefully nothing backfires and this battery last me for the 5 years like the OEM one did!
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      12-03-2013, 10:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Ritz View Post
My local Indy shop register it for free. Why did you pay pep boys to install battery. A duralast is only 110
Truth be told, I didn't want to "fiddle" with the item on top of the battery. Figured it wasn't worth the $25 installation charge.

Interesting your local Indy shop registered your battery free of charge. Maybe I should've looked around after all.
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      12-03-2013, 11:02 PM   #38
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Usually when the battery starts going, the car will start cutting back on things.. for example, if you have your headlights set to auto so the halo lights come on when you unlock the car, the halo lights will stop coming on..

Get a mini cooper battery, fits perfectly, cuts 10lb of weight.. Burger tuning has the single car BT cables for 179 if you can't find somewhere to register the battery cheaply.. that will also give you the ability to load flash tunes for free as well as do all the other diagnostic stuff you can do with a BT cable..
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      12-04-2013, 10:07 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobin777 View Post
Truth be told, I didn't want to "fiddle" with the item on top of the battery. Figured it wasn't worth the $25 installation charge.

Interesting your local Indy shop registered your battery free of charge. Maybe I should've looked around after all.
Eh.. The battery is a pita the first time and having someone hold the cable top mess out of the way when you put the battery back in helps. It took me 30 min to put mine in only because it was hard to put back in by myself. The autozone people were like lol took you long enough. I assure you tho the second time around I will be able to do it in 10.
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      12-11-2013, 09:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Ritz View Post
Eh.. The battery is a pita the first time and having someone hold the cable top mess out of the way when you put the battery back in helps. It took me 30 min to put mine in only because it was hard to put back in by myself. The autozone people were like lol took you long enough. I assure you tho the second time around I will be able to do it in 10.
You are probably right in that its very easy the second time around. I figured it wasn't worth the cost to possibly screw up and I'm notorious for ruining perfectly fine things. LOL.
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      12-11-2013, 09:35 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by jacobin777 View Post
You are probably right in that its very easy the second time around. I figured it wasn't worth the cost to possibly screw up and I'm notorious for ruining perfectly fine things. LOL.
Your probably right, common issues with battery replacement is a damaged IBS on the negative cable OR a malfunction on the airbag with that one connection on the positive terminal. Its not hard if you take your time and research. I'm at the point where i think i can tackle the job once my car does crap out. I also have a coding cable and Smooth1's free BMWLogger software which makes it supper simple to register a battery (its a simple one click feature and done in like 3 seconds!!!).

My hope is that once this car reaches 100k miles, i plan to change the battery no matter the condition of it.
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      12-13-2013, 11:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
Your probably right, common issues with battery replacement is a damaged IBS on the negative cable OR a malfunction on the airbag with that one connection on the positive terminal. Its not hard if you take your time and research. I'm at the point where i think i can tackle the job once my car does crap out. I also have a coding cable and Smooth1's free BMWLogger software which makes it supper simple to register a battery (its a simple one click feature and done in like 3 seconds!!!).

My hope is that once this car reaches 100k miles, i plan to change the battery no matter the condition of it.
You are definitely a bit more advanced with me when it comes to these items. I figured the cost/value/time isn't worth it for me. I would like to have more time to work on my Bimmer but with everything on my table/frying-pan, it just makes it too difficult.
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      12-14-2013, 11:18 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Ritz View Post
Eh.. The battery is a pita the first time and having someone hold the cable top mess out of the way when you put the battery back in helps. It took me 30 min to put mine in only because it was hard to put back in by myself. The autozone people were like lol took you long enough. I assure you tho the second time around I will be able to do it in 10.
I just set the tray that covers the battery on the IBS to hold it out of the way towards the front of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuch335 View Post
Usually when the battery starts going, the car will start cutting back on things.. for example, if you have your headlights set to auto so the halo lights come on when you unlock the car, the halo lights will stop coming on..

Get a mini cooper battery, fits perfectly, cuts 10lb of weight.. Burger tuning has the single car BT cables for 179 if you can't find somewhere to register the battery cheaply.. that will also give you the ability to load flash tunes for free as well as do all the other diagnostic stuff you can do with a BT cable..
Yeah mine did the same thing, it sometimes wouldn't let me use rest either.

The battery had the black eye, green is good yellow is dead and black is undercharged. I'm almost wondering if this battery wasn't registered so it wasn't charging enough. It was the oem battery and looked pretty dirty so it might be the original which in that case it's probably shot.
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      12-14-2013, 12:03 PM   #44
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It was -20 this morning and the crank was borderline. New battery last year and I hardly imagine my car would have started this morning with my 2007 battery. It is better to go preventive.
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