[CRJdriver]

So I just blew threw 41,000 miles in 2 years. Built date is 5/14 so I'm currently evaluating keeping it/extended warranty or trade in for a new daily.
Had this for a while, didn't really bother me but down the min it might not hold boost?
I missed out on the N54 fun so I really have no idea how bad this is?
Should I be asking for a new turbo?
Holds boost fine if nothing I keeps wanna spool more

[KGB_123_99]

Originally Posted by CRJdriver

So I just blew threw 41,000 miles in 2 years. Built date is 5/14 so I'm currently evaluating keeping it/extended warranty or trade in for a new daily.
Had this for a while, didn't really bother me but down the min it might not hold boost?
I missed out on the N54 fun so I really have no idea how bad this is?
Should I be asking for a new turbo?
Holds boost fine if nothing I keeps wanna spool more

Wow that is pretty bad actually! I thought mine was bad on a cold start but this is much worse!

Does yours go away when the engine is hot? Mine is there until the revs drop after a cold start.

I would ask for a turbo change or some kind of fix if still under warranty. Maybe they just need to adjust the wastegate actuator.

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by KGB_123_99

Wow that is pretty bad actually! I thought mine was bad on a cold start but this is much worse!

Does yours go away when the engine is hot? Mine is there until the revs drop after a cold start.

that wasn't a cold start at all lol look at oil temp, I wish it was that quiet on cold starts...

tbh it comes and goes, my mpe with no res is fairly loud..so unless I'm up against a divider I wouldn't here it...I haven't been paying attention until recently when I realize warranty is coming up on Mileage.

In this vid which is taken 2 minutes before I don't hear the rattle...?

[KGB_123_99]

Originally Posted by CRJdriver

that wasn't a cold start at all lol look at oil temp, I wish it was that quiet on cold starts...

tbh it comes and goes, my mpe with no res is fairly loud..so unless I'm up against a divider I wouldn't here it...I haven't been paying attention until recently when I realize warranty is coming up on Mileage.

In this vid which is taken 2 minutes before I don't hear the rattle...?

Good point about the oil temp, didn't notice that.

On Eco Pro I never get any rattle. The wastegate is more open, hence less boost, so there is more clearance between it and the turbo body. That is why it rattles less.

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by KGB_123_99

Good point about the oil temp, didn't notice that.

On Eco Pro I never get any rattle. The wastegate is more open, hence less boost, so there is more clearance between it and the turbo body. That is why it rattles less.

rattles more for me when it's boosting...still making power tho?

[D041987]

I don't get why BMW owners have an issue with this as every turbo car gets this over time. Just adjust the screw that holds the rod till the rattle is gone. Simple as that and problem is fixed. Now if you max out the screw than you need to get a new actuator which is still a simple fix but might want to do it over the weekend. They sell rebuild kits on ebay or you can buy the actuator and rod for any Mitsubishi TD04 turbo and it will work.

It's a good time to get dirty unless you are like 80% of BMW owners and have no clue about wrenching on cars.

[CRJdriver]

Originally Posted by D041987

I don't get why BMW owners have an issue with this as every turbo car gets this over time. Just adjust the screw that holds the rod till the rattle is gone. Simple as that and problem is fixed. Now if you max out the screw than you need to get a new actuator which is still a simple fix but might want to do it over the weekend. They sell rebuild kits on ebay or you can buy the actuator and rod for any Mitsubishi TD04 turbo and it will work.

It's a good time to get dirty unless you are like 80% of BMW owners and have no clue about wrenching on cars.

oh really so if I tighten it cold what happens when the turbo is glowing red hot? where is it going to expand. the part that flaps is the flapper inside. A design flaw as I see it.

I have an electronic wastegate car it can move faster and more adjustable the any pneumatic system. yeah it's a TD04 sure but nothing related to the old days they make 6 psi back then mine still closing the throttle until 4.5k rpm and it's making 18-20 psi.

Next time at least do some googling before u call people out. But what do I know right, I can't wrench my full bolt on car.

[D041987]

Buddy, I have over 6 years building high boost cars ranging from mild 300WHP to over 1400WHP. Your bolt on mods skills are novice at best and any person can do it. Now I don't want to argue with you and I am just trying to help you out so you don't go spending money on a new turbo when a little issue happens that can be adjust and last you another 20K or 40K miles. My own car that I had previous to this was a 2.5L fully forged and built in my garage by me and made close to 600WHP and 540WTQ. Not going to argue with you but turbo's are made with very high tolerances and do not "expand" as you think, especially where it regulates boost by the flapper. Yes the actuator is electronically controlled to open and close but only to a set degree/distance. The rod is there in place to adjust the slack that DOES get created in any turbo application which the electronic flapper cannot compensate for, hence why it has a nut and a thread for adjusting. Without a doubt the actuator is bleeding the pressure inside and is faulty so this is a bandaid but will last you a while from my experience. What we have usually done was go external wastegate on anything that produces over 20PSI or upgraded the actuators as the OEM units just are not designed to handle the pressure and will fail over time. So if you want to save money just adjust the arm by half turns till the rattle is gone or faint. If it comes back pretty quickly than it's time for a new actuator if Mitsubishi sells it or a new turbo.