[jova]

My battery had died while I was cleaning my car and left all 4 doors open for around an hour or so (yes I know this was idiotic) and of course battery died. I connected cables, turned on car, took off cables and drove on highway for about 45 minutes and city for about another 30. My car is able to start on and off no problem but doors won’t lock, lights do not work (interior and exterior), and my left door is giving me a light on dashboard saying that it is not closed (although it is). My main worry right now is of course the locks and lights not working. What do I do from here ?

Thank you in advance

[Bims328i]

Invest in a capable scanner. If you get some specific codes and check systems you can tell if the battery is bad or going out. Think of it as $150 for peace of mind knowing what is wrong in MOST cases.

Shortly after purchase, I invested in a capable scanner as these cars have extensive OBD specific codes by BMW. Imo don't waste your time with iCarly junk, just get a good scanner and you'll be set.

Honestly sounds like a bad / failing battery. If you go to replace. Follow all guidelines with IBS and you'll be good to go. With a decent scanner you can check the "%" availability of the battery and thus generally tell if it is "on the way out".

It's not a good idea to run too long on a crappy batt as this will tax the alternator more possibly causing to fail prematurely! Best regards.

[jova]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Invest in a capable scanner. If you get some specific codes and check systems you can tell if the battery is bad or going out. Think of it as $150 for peace of mind knowing what is wrong in MOST cases.

Shortly after purchase, I invested in a capable scanner as these cars have extensive OBD specific codes by BMW. Imo don't waste your time with iCarly junk, just get a good scanner and you'll be set.

Honestly sounds like a bad / failing battery. If you go to replace. Follow all guidelines with IBS and you'll be good to go. With a decent scanner you can check the "%" availability of the battery and thus generally tell if it is "on the way out".

It's not a good idea to run too long on a crappy batt as this will tax the alternator more possibly causing to fail prematurely! Best regards.

Should I try going to autozone and recharging the battery and have them test it there ? Assuming I wouldn’t be able to get the scanner in time for this issue , as this car is my daily

[jova]

The state of charge was 38% and they said battery was good but still needs charge. I still can’t lock door and lights still don’t work …. Not sure what to do

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by jova

The state of charge was 38% and they said battery was good but still needs charge. I still can’t lock door and lights still don’t work …. Not sure what to do

Check your fuses next.

[jova]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Check your fuses next.

Doesn’t this seem all like a FRM module failure ? Especially because the driver door open symbol on dashboard ?

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by jova

Doesn’t this seem all like a FRM module failure ? Especially because the driver door open symbol on dashboard ?

Well we can all guess ay this point. Have you read for codes yet? If it is you should be getting a fault code for FRM module.

[jova]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Well we can all guess ay this point. Have you read for codes yet? If it is you should be getting a fault code for FRM module.

These are the codes I received “A3B4 - Message (lighting status) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM and A3C1 - Message (FRM) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM.” My mechanic said its possible water issues into FRM because I was washing the car with liquids and a rag when the battery died because doors were open. Would it best to send for a repair or buy a whole new FRM3 module to register and code again ?

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by jova

These are the codes I received “A3B4 - Message (lighting status) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM and A3C1 - Message (FRM) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM.” My mechanic said its possible water issues into FRM because I was washing the car with liquids and a rag when the battery died because doors were open. Would it best to send for a repair or buy a whole new FRM3 module to register and code again ?

Ok see if you can somehow remove the FRM module see if you see water intrusion? I never repaired or replaced my FRM MODULES not sure how hard is to remove? Not sure how much these run for new and/or used?

[Efthreeoh]

Your battery should not have died in an hour with the doors open. The interior lights time out after 10 minutes. Your battery is degraded and on it's way out.

Get the battery fully charged up, the best way is to drive the car a few hours without restarting. Then disconnect the negative cable for 1/2 hour to let the modules reset.

How did you jump start the car? You should have used the underhood terminals.

[jova]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Your battery should not have died in an hour with the doors open. The interior lights time out after 10 minutes. Your battery is degraded and on it's way out.

Get the battery fully charged up, the best way is to drive the car a few hours without restarting. Then disconnect the negative cable for 1/2 hour to let the modules reset.

How did you jump start the car? You should have used the underhood terminals.

It was under the hood. I had someone reset the codes with the code scanner and the issue with FRM module still occurs, hence the codes it threw out. My battery tested autozone was good health and at 38%. I think it can either be water damaged from wash (low chance) or just corroded after jump start

[Bims328i]

If the sunroof drains get clogged, then water CAN build up on the floorboards under the carpet and there is tons of foam bonded under the carpet. The two electronics boxes on the cowl are the only areas water could get from washing and you would have had to leave them off or something. Of course it can come in from other areas but

As Efthreeoh stated, it sounds like the battery is on the way out.

You can actually check IBS % availability in the battery with a scanner like Ancell BM700, Foxwell 510 or Schwaben SCH14020 SCH (Basically Foxwell 510 with BMW ODB software) and it can tell you the condition of the battery.

It can take a long time for the system to fully charge a good battery (in the event you drained it down a bit). With a bad, weak or battery that is otw out, you will get all kinds of weird module errors. I was getting DME Motor electronics codes but was keeping a close eye on the condition using my scanner.

To buy some more time you can keep the battery charged / topped up with a battery tender. Be sure to charge via posts in the engine bay. When installing the new battery, remove (- Black) first then (+ Red) and reverse on install. You'll also need a scanner to register the new battery. If the capacity or type changes, you need to code that in.

Again, with a scanner you can check what is coded (in my case the coding on mine was 90AH AGM) so replaced with 92AH AGM G49 H8 Duracell (90-95AH is in class range of 90AH)

If you want to code it yourself you can get Veepeak BT adapter and Bimmercode to easily code in new battery type or capacity. Hope you get it sorted out.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jova

These are the codes I received “A3B4 - Message (lighting status) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM and A3C1 - Message (FRM) error, receiver instrument cluster, transmitter FRM.”...

Did you ever check fuses? F41, F81, F84 & F86 power the FRM Module on 2008 & later E9x Models, such as your 2011 328xi.

Those codes are in the KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module Fault Memory. They indicate that Module is NOT receiving expected "Messages" from the FRM Module. The LACK of communication from/with FRM can be due to:
1) Lack of Power Supply/Ground;
2) Lack of Bus Connection (K-CAN);
3) Faulty FRM Module.

Check fuses FIRST, particularly F41 & F81. If ALL 4 fuses are OK (Test visually & Electrically), then inspect the Connectors at the FRM for corrosion or moisture at X14260/45 (Green Wire) & X14260/46 (Orange/Green wire). If you post back, please indicate Make/Model Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) you have available.
Please let us know what you find,
George