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      02-24-2010, 01:08 PM   #23
skoot3r
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How much did this set you back?
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      02-24-2010, 07:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoot3r View Post
How much did this set you back?
Approx. $900. Includes camber/caster plates, springs, sway bar links, mounting hardware for height adjusters, height adjusters and rear shock mounts. Call Jay at GC for specifics.

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      02-24-2010, 07:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
Approx. $900. Includes camber/caster plates, springs, sway bar links, mounting hardware for height adjusters, height adjusters and rear shock mounts. Call Jay at GC for specifics.

Thx!
BC
Barry, Ill let u know tom if im abale to go lower in the front, safely.
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      02-25-2010, 10:49 AM   #26
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Barry.What front wheel & tire setup are you running?I spoke to Jay yesterday @ GC and the only thing that concerns about this kit is that you loose 2mm of wheel/tire inner clearance to the strut.I am running 275/35 18 on a TR 18x10 25p for my track setup.
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      02-25-2010, 11:00 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
Barry.What front wheel & tire setup are you running?I spoke to Jay yesterday @ GC and the only thing that concerns about this kit is that you loose 2mm of wheel/tire inner clearance to the strut.I am running 275/35 18 on a TR 18x10 25p for my track setup.
The wheel is 18x9.5 26et with Nitto NT05 in 275/35/18 with no rubbing. I hear what you're saying about the rubbing concerns. I had the TR wheels 18x10 25et and a 275/35 Nitto NT01 and the wheels and tires rubbed the Motons. I would test fit the TR's for you but I've sold them - sorry!

Thanks,
BC
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      02-25-2010, 11:01 AM   #28
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Getting my alignmnt done right now, and yup, no way to safely get the front lower. Seems like gc is going to have to come out with a fix for that.
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      02-25-2010, 11:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
The wheel is 18x9.5 26et with Nitto NT05 in 275/35/18 with no rubbing. I hear what you're saying about the rubbing concerns. I had the TR wheels 18x10 25et and a 275/35 Nitto NT01 and the wheels and tires rubbed the Motons. I would test fit the TR's for you but I've sold them - sorry!

Thanks,
BC
I have a further concern now as I am probaly going to large brake setup that will require a 18 10 25p for caliper clearance at the spokes.My car is in storage and maybe what I need to do is to mount up a 275 35 and test fit on my car and see what clearances that I am actually dealing with before committiing to the brake setup & more wheels.The GC kit is what I am going to go with.
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      02-25-2010, 11:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
I have a further concern now as I am probaly going to large brake setup that will require a 18 10 25p for caliper clearance at the spokes.My car is in storage and maybe what I need to do is to mount up a 275 35 and test fit on my car and see what clearances that I am actually dealing with before committiing to the brake setup & more wheels.The GC kit is what I am going to go with.
The wheel you need all depends on the design of the wheel. I'm running a 372mm rotor now and have a ton of clearance but no concavity in the wheel therefore I don't have to worry about the spokes of the wheel hitting the caliper. I could easily run a 380mm rotor with the wheel i have.

I know Stoptech provides a wheel fitment guide and I would assume others would too so that should help you with your decision.

BC
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      02-25-2010, 12:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
The wheel you need all depends on the design of the wheel. I'm running a 372mm rotor now and have a ton of clearance but no concavity in the wheel therefore I don't have to worry about the spokes of the wheel hitting the caliper. I could easily run a 380mm rotor with the wheel i have.

I know Stoptech provides a wheel fitment guide and I would assume others would too so that should help you with your decision.

BC
This front brake setup is not off the shelf and would be using an AP Nascar short track caliper & 380 mm rotor which is on a much lighter racecar that has too much front brake for his needs(he cannot keep them warm!).We know that a BBS 18 10 25p setup will not clear it,but not by much.

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      02-25-2010, 01:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthirtyfizle View Post
Getting my alignmnt done right now, and yup, no way to safely get the front lower. Seems like gc is going to have to come out with a fix for that.
Gotcha. I dunno doesn't bother me to be honest. I'm probably in the minority here....
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      02-25-2010, 02:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
This front brake setup is not off the shelf and would be using an AP Nascar short track caliper & 380 mm rotor which is on a much lighter racecar that has too much front brake for his needs(he cannot keep them warm!).We know that a BBS 18 10 25p setup will not clear it,but not by much.

DAMNNNNNN. That's a HUGE caliper!!
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      02-25-2010, 05:00 PM   #34
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So I got my custom alignment done. I finally found a shop here in nyc that is superb with custom alignments. The owner of the shop I went to, which is also the guy who did my alignment was very knowledgeble, and it was very comforting to know I finally found someone who knew what they were doing. He gave me an aggressive setup, but is still easy on the streets. I did feel the grooves on the road a bit more, but wasnt really able to test it out since we r getting hit with snow. He also said there is no way to go any lower.

However, what is even better is the fact that gc called me, and offered to send me a shoorter spring via air since I wanted to go lower. So apparently there is a solution to that issue. The spring is slightly stiffer but 1" lower, and gc said there is still enough travel that u wont hit the bump stop. I dont really mind how the car looks now, since its still lower then the eibachs but just a bit higher then the H&R's, but i do love how it drives. And now that I just finished getting this alignment, I dont know wether I want to change it up. However if i do, all that needs to be done is the front, which shouldnt b a long process at all. I told gc I would wait for my new wheels to come in, and if I dont like how it looks then, Ill go for the lower spring. They said that was absolutely not an issue and if I decide to switch they will overnight the new spring for me.

Thumbs up to Ground Control. My first time daling with them and they have been absolutely superb.
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      02-25-2010, 05:19 PM   #35
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Nice write-up.
So they recommended a shorter spring, but don't the front springs come loose as it is?
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      02-25-2010, 05:28 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
Gotcha. I dunno doesn't bother me to be honest. I'm probably in the minority here....
Lower does equal better handling!There are lot more factors here than just ride height.
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      02-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
Lower does equal better handling!There are lot more factors here than just ride height.
I dont think thats entirely correct. The lower equaling better handling. As a matter of fact, for best handling they suggest about a quarter inch lower then stock.
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      02-25-2010, 05:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthirtyfizle View Post
I dont think thats entirely correct. The lower equaling better handling. As a matter of fact, for best handling they suggest about a quarter inch lower then stock.
Yeah that is the range where the stock geometry still works like it was supposed to.I know that that on a lot of other cars strange things happen to handling when you go too low.
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      02-25-2010, 05:39 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
Nice write-up.
So they recommended a shorter spring, but don't the front springs come loose as it is?
Im guessing the shorter spring is more for looks and what not. What they reccommended me for my intentions was the spring the gave me. However, I dont mind going a bit lower as I would sacrifice a bit of handling over some looks. Car is set up really good right now, but its gonna see the track in april, most of the time it will b on the streets. Im waiting to c how this spring looks with my 20's. If not i would have prob ordered the shorter spring already.

One thing I dont get tho is all the adjustability in the rear. U can literally slam the rear more then coilovers.
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      02-25-2010, 05:40 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
Yeah that is the range where the stock geometry still works like it was supposed to.I know that that on a lot of other cars strange things happen to handling when you go too low.
Yup, exactly. I would assume the lower u go the more bouncy it may be and not as good for performance altho having a lower cebter of gravity. Weird how it works. But I dont doubt that for the track, what I have now is the best setup.
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      02-25-2010, 06:00 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
Nice write-up.
So they recommended a shorter spring, but don't the front springs come loose as it is?
only if you go airborne....
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      02-25-2010, 06:52 PM   #42
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Still (patiently) waiting for pictures of the kit on the car...
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      02-25-2010, 07:25 PM   #43
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I will deff post some up tom. Sorry for the delay.
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      02-25-2010, 08:10 PM   #44
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Greg does a good job... he built my GT2, and has set up several of my cups, you may even have seen my race car sitting there?? lil ole POS E36?
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