Devastated.

makrop · 04-18-2013, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Be aware if you buff your headlights you will remove the UV coating that prevents them from turning yellow. In order to reapply the UV coating go to Home Depot and buy some Helmsmann Spar Urethane. Google how to mix it with mineral spirits and reapply to your buffed headlight to prevent it from turning yellow and hazing.

Is this the same thing as just getting a clear film over it? Laminex makes good stuff and I was going to just throw that on. Or should I re-coat them as well?

1triple5 · 04-18-2013, 05:31 PM

Only if I read this thread before I completely messed up my car.

It was the last drive of the season so I really wanted to get a good adrenaline fueled drive in before tucking it away for winter. Long story short, I felt tough and turned the traction and stability control fully off. After 30 minutes of aggressive highway driving I exited onto a major road with a speed limit of 60KM/H, I was going at least 80 at this point and I had to make a right pretty soon, completely forgetting T/C was off I lose complete control and my car jumps over an 8" island onto the oncoming lane. With this leap I broke a road sign, front bumper was destroyed, had a dent on my roof (because of the sign), huge rip in one of my tires with many scratches and dents on the rim. Ever since that day I made a promise to myself to drive more conservative and NEVER turn traction control off again. I learned my lesson the hard way.

Gray_Panther · 04-18-2013, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krop135i

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Be aware if you buff your headlights you will remove the UV coating that prevents them from turning yellow. In order to reapply the UV coating go to Home Depot and buy some Helmsmann Spar Urethane. Google how to mix it with mineral spirits and reapply to your buffed headlight to prevent it from turning yellow and hazing.

Is this the same thing as just getting a clear film over it? Laminex makes good stuff and I was going to just throw that on. Or should I re-coat them as well?

No. Uv rays will still pass through the film and yellow the lens. Coating is still needed. After coating you can apply the laminex to protect the lens from rock chips and shit

makrop · 04-19-2013, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

No. Uv rays will still pass through the film and yellow the lens. Coating is still needed. After coating you can apply the laminex to protect the lens from rock chips and shit

Good to know. Thanks bud!

golf_234 · 04-19-2013, 01:04 AM

^good advice. honestly, you can take a bad situation and turn it into a good one here by laminexing everything up front; keep the car fresh and do some extra detail work

Gimlet · 04-21-2013, 06:34 AM

Hey Krop - It really stinks what happened and just wanted to say I feel for you man. I know how excited you've been about the car... and I know that feeling of driving home in silence and asking yourself, "did that really just happen?" all the while feeling feverish and a bit sick.

Anyhow - it appears you have gotten some good advice here and have taken the right steps to get the car fixed properly. I would imagine there has to be someplace locally that can do the clear-bra properly for you. Maybe if there is some profit margin you can apply it towards a professional install. Most high-end tint shops have experience with it. I know one in OKC, but you would have to get on the highway to get there. Also, you will have to wait a couple of weeks before getting it applied b/c of the fresh paint. Be gentile with her in the meantime, and maybe "painters tape her up" until then.

Good luck, and let us know how it all works out -

makrop · 04-21-2013, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gimlet

Hey Krop - It really stinks what happened and just wanted to say I feel for you man. I know how excited you've been about the car... and I know that feeling of driving home in silence and asking yourself, "did that really just happen?" all the while feeling feverish and a bit sick.

Anyhow - it appears you have gotten some good advice here and have taken the right steps to get the car fixed properly. I would imagine there has to be someplace locally that can do the clear-bra properly for you. Maybe if there is some profit margin you can apply it towards a professional install. Most high-end tint shops have experience with it. I know one in OKC, but you would have to get on the highway to get there. Also, you will have to wait a couple of weeks before getting it applied b/c of the fresh paint. Be gentile with her in the meantime, and maybe "painters tape her up" until then.

Good luck, and let us know how it all works out -

Thanks man,

Yeah you described the drive home perfectly but after inspecting the damage once I got in the garage, it really wasn't that bad and knew everything was purely cosmetic and mainly scratches. Nonetheless, I take the car in tomorrow morning for a new bumper, passenger fender, hood, and undershield. I have told the Liberty Mutual shop to cram it with their quote to use "reconditioned parts" and am taking it to Hourglass (BMW's only approved shop in Tulsa) so I will be getting new parts and an exact paint match.

As for your mentioned, "profit margin", I will be making about $200 out of this since I fixed the headlight scratches myself after they quoted to replace the entire assembly at $600/each. So with my deductible being $1000 and the headlights quoted at $1200, I'll be sittin pretty. This whole thing didn't work out that badly!

Here's a pic of the lights, I have some before pictures a couple posts up. They really werent that bad but I'm really happy with the results and about an hour of my time!

Oh and I didnt even have to worry about taping off the fender/bumper to be careful not to overlap with the sand paper lol

makrop · 04-23-2013, 10:13 AM

Dropped the car off this morning, told them not to replace the headlights and let me keep the old bumper/fender for detailing practice sessions in the future haha.

I'm house sitting for my mom this week so I'm driving her G35 to avoid the ford fiesta that's covered on my rental...

Adam135 · 04-23-2013, 07:39 PM

The dealer replaced one of my headlight assembly's recently under warranty they said the price was around $1200. I use Plexus on my headlight lenses and all other exterior plastics http://www.autogeek.net/plexus-plastic-polish.html

drufe · 04-23-2013, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krop135i

...So with my deductible being $1000 and the headlights quoted at $1200, I'll be sittin pretty. This whole thing didn't work out that badly!...

Don't want to be a Debbie Downer or anything but won't your insurance premiums go up due to the claim thus wiping out that $200 'profit' rather quickly? Glad the accident wasn't worse and that you or others weren't injured. Could have definitely been worse.

makrop · 04-24-2013, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drufe

Don't want to be a Debbie Downer or anything but won't your insurance premiums go up due to the claim thus wiping out that $200 'profit' rather quickly? Glad the accident wasn't worse and that you or others weren't injured. Could have definitely been worse.

I doubt it will go up much, if any at all. No other car involved and no citation or anything. Plus it was my first incident and I think I have some kind of "accident forgiveness" provision in there or something.

Regardless, 25 isn't that far off so I'll be getting a big break soon.

phobic · 04-29-2013, 12:43 PM

honestly, thanks for writing this up. I just picked up a 2011 135i and knew the car was mean but reading through this makes me want to get it to a track and get some instruction before going full off on the trac/stab controls.

hope you get your car back asap!

makrop · 04-29-2013, 01:04 PM

Thanks^

The car was dropped off last Monday at BMW's authorized shop and as of last Friday, they were still waiting on my insurance adjuster to come out and approve the additional things they found that needed replacing. After getting it up in the air, I guess the bottom of the intercooler was damaged a bit so they are replacing that along with the muffler and that last 3rd section of the exhaust. I guess it had gotten pushed up a bit. Not sure why they cant just pull it back down... But I asked if it was possible to upgrade to BMW performance exhaust and then subtract off the cost of the muffler and w.e else they were gonna do with it. So hopefully I can upgrade for a discounted price and some more good might come out of this!

Oh and my mom will be returning this wednesday so I can go back to my place and not have to house-sit... this also means I can't drive the G35 anymore and will have to start my rental ford fiesta since they told me it could be another 3 weeks for adjuster to come out, order the parts and get it on and painted. Sucks.

drufe · 04-29-2013, 03:49 PM

You should definitely upgrade that FMIC while you're at it.

makrop · 04-29-2013, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drufe

You should definitely upgrade that FMIC while you're at it.

Thought about it... the OE one they will replace it with looks like $350 and the cheapest "upgrade" I can find runs about $900 so not really worth it for me. I don't ever plan on tracking or doing anything that would benefit from a better one.

Bmwbreed · 04-29-2013, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krop135i

Thought about it... the OE one they will replace it with looks like $350 and the cheapest "upgrade" I can find runs about $900 so not really worth it for me. I don't ever plan on tracking or doing anything that would benefit from a better one.

Vrsf front mount is 450. You will feel the difference from it in summer when that stock one heat soaks an the car starts to bog.

TheRuss · 04-30-2013, 03:42 AM

From everything I've read, you should feel a difference all the time. Only downside is that you'd not have an OEM cooler to switch back to if you ever needed to.

makrop · 05-02-2013, 08:23 AM

Ok I got a question for you guys!

My agent finally made it over to my shop and approved all the extra damages and approved $808 for the back third of the exhaust and to replace the muffler... BMW Performance Exhaust is $1250 from BMW so I can essentially save $800 on this. I am wondering is the BMW PE a full exhaust or is it just a muffler? The manager at my shop wasn't sure and I am needing more info on it. Is it a direct bolt-on? I assume it is, but if it required any special hangers or anything, they couldn't guarantee the work.

Edit: After some quick googling, I think its just the muffler?

Basically, I have $808 for free towards a new exhaust. What is the best route for me to go? Replace it back to stock at zero cost to me, or upgrade to BMW performance for about $400? Not really interested in anything aftermarket, but throw it out there anyways if there is something good and direct fit.

TheRuss · 05-02-2013, 08:32 AM

BMWP exhaust bolts up to the midpipe, so I assume that's the rear 1/3 of the exhaust that needs replacing anyway? How did you manage to damage that if it was a front end hit?!

Anyway, the BMWP exhaust uses the same hangers as the standard exhaust. In fact, they look identical, other than the exhaust tips and the lack of a flapper mechanism on the BMWP unit. Here in the UK you also get a resonator delete (y-pipe) section that gets rid of the midpipe resonator, but I'm not sure if you get that part in your region? Either way, you don't have to fit it, but if you do the garage will have to cut your existing midpipe to fit this portion.

If it were me, I'd upgrade to the BMWP unit... but then I would say that - I'm running one myself.

phobic · 05-02-2013, 08:34 AM

I saw upgrade. $400 for a BMW PE is amazing.

Also, Im guessing he damaged it by driving over something while spinning out.

makrop · 05-02-2013, 08:42 AM

Yeah, there was hardly any damage to it at all. I guess my insurance just loves spending money haha. The back third kind of got bumped and "pushed up" a bit as I skidded onto the grass.

But yes, $400 for PE would be awesome. How does it compare in sound to the aFe or Berk ones? Both of these upgrades would essentially be free (< $800)

http://www.**********s.com/aFe-Axle-...W-E82-135i.htm

http://www.**********s.com/Berk-Tech...t-E82-135i.htm

I don't know anything about exhaust really, I've never upgraded it on any of my cars. I'm just trying to find some enjoyment out of this whole "experience".

Edit:

I guess it doesn't like links to vendors... After some more quick googling, I guess I am looking for the best "axle-back" exhaust. Just the back third.

Might make a separate thread for a vote...

TheRuss · 05-02-2013, 09:01 AM

Yikes. That ain't gonna help your answer at all. Everyone will just recommend what they have. AFAIK, the BMWP is one of the best sounding (lots of popping and burbling), whilst retaining a stock look and quality.

However, aftermarket ones may well offer other advantages, such as an extra couple of HP or reduced weight/cost, but with an axle-back you're not gonna get much of a difference in performance. You need to replace the mids and downpipes for proper HP gains.

I could suggest listening to sound clips on YouTube, but there's little point because they all sound pretty similar after they've been filmed on somebody's iPhone, then played back through some laptop speakers.

Really depends on you and what you feel comfortable doing. I picked the BMWP because it's supposed to sound one of the best, plus it's one of the only ones available in the UK. Wasn't cheap though.

04-18-2013, 05:31 PM	#90
1triple5 Private 13 Rep 76 Posts Drives: Mineral Grey M240i XDrive Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0) Garage List 2020 BMW M240i XDrive [0.00] 2015 VW GTI 6MT Per ... [0.00] 2008 BMW 135i [10.00]	Only if I read this thread before I completely messed up my car. It was the last drive of the season so I really wanted to get a good adrenaline fueled drive in before tucking it away for winter. Long story short, I felt tough and turned the traction and stability control fully off. After 30 minutes of aggressive highway driving I exited onto a major road with a speed limit of 60KM/H, I was going at least 80 at this point and I had to make a right pretty soon, completely forgetting T/C was off I lose complete control and my car jumps over an 8" island onto the oncoming lane. With this leap I broke a road sign, front bumper was destroyed, had a dent on my roof (because of the sign), huge rip in one of my tires with many scratches and dents on the rim. Ever since that day I made a promise to myself to drive more conservative and NEVER turn traction control off again. I learned my lesson the hard way.
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04-19-2013, 01:04 AM	#93
golf_234 Captain 325 Rep 905 Posts Drives: E46, E90, F30 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Santa Monica iTrader: (0)	^good advice. honestly, you can take a bad situation and turn it into a good one here by laminexing everything up front; keep the car fresh and do some extra detail work __________________
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04-21-2013, 06:34 AM	#94
Gimlet Second Lieutenant 11 Rep 257 Posts Drives: '08 BSM 135i Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: In my desk chair - iTrader: (0)	Hey Krop - It really stinks what happened and just wanted to say I feel for you man. I know how excited you've been about the car... and I know that feeling of driving home in silence and asking yourself, "did that really just happen?" all the while feeling feverish and a bit sick. Anyhow - it appears you have gotten some good advice here and have taken the right steps to get the car fixed properly. I would imagine there has to be someplace locally that can do the clear-bra properly for you. Maybe if there is some profit margin you can apply it towards a professional install. Most high-end tint shops have experience with it. I know one in OKC, but you would have to get on the highway to get there. Also, you will have to wait a couple of weeks before getting it applied b/c of the fresh paint. Be gentile with her in the meantime, and maybe "painters tape her up" until then. Good luck, and let us know how it all works out - __________________
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04-23-2013, 10:13 AM	#96
makrop Lieutenant 151 Rep 475 Posts Drives: '18 M240i 6MT MGM/CR Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Broken Arrow, OK iTrader: (0)	Dropped the car off this morning, told them not to replace the headlights and let me keep the old bumper/fender for detailing practice sessions in the future haha. I'm house sitting for my mom this week so I'm driving her G35 to avoid the ford fiesta that's covered on my rental... __________________ 18' F22 M240i \| 6MT \| MGM/CR 02' E46 325i \| 5MT \| SBM/B (beater - 200k+) 10' E82 135i \| 6MT \| BSM/CR (sold) 03' E46 330ci \| 5MT \| JB/B (sold)
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04-23-2013, 07:39 PM	#97
Adam135 Captain 75 Rep 961 Posts Drives: 2014 435i Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: USA iTrader: (2)	The dealer replaced one of my headlight assembly's recently under warranty they said the price was around $1200. I use Plexus on my headlight lenses and all other exterior plastics http://www.autogeek.net/plexus-plastic-polish.html
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04-29-2013, 12:43 PM	#100
phobic Lieutenant 21 Rep 427 Posts Drives: 2011 135i coupe Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Woburn, MA iTrader: (3)	honestly, thanks for writing this up. I just picked up a 2011 135i and knew the car was mean but reading through this makes me want to get it to a track and get some instruction before going full off on the trac/stab controls. hope you get your car back asap!
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04-29-2013, 01:04 PM	#101
makrop Lieutenant 151 Rep 475 Posts Drives: '18 M240i 6MT MGM/CR Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Broken Arrow, OK iTrader: (0)	Thanks^ The car was dropped off last Monday at BMW's authorized shop and as of last Friday, they were still waiting on my insurance adjuster to come out and approve the additional things they found that needed replacing. After getting it up in the air, I guess the bottom of the intercooler was damaged a bit so they are replacing that along with the muffler and that last 3rd section of the exhaust. I guess it had gotten pushed up a bit. Not sure why they cant just pull it back down... But I asked if it was possible to upgrade to BMW performance exhaust and then subtract off the cost of the muffler and w.e else they were gonna do with it. So hopefully I can upgrade for a discounted price and some more good might come out of this! Oh and my mom will be returning this wednesday so I can go back to my place and not have to house-sit... this also means I can't drive the G35 anymore and will have to start my rental ford fiesta since they told me it could be another 3 weeks for adjuster to come out, order the parts and get it on and painted. Sucks. __________________ 18' F22 M240i \| 6MT \| MGM/CR 02' E46 325i \| 5MT \| SBM/B (beater - 200k+) 10' E82 135i \| 6MT \| BSM/CR (sold) 03' E46 330ci \| 5MT \| JB/B (sold)
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04-29-2013, 03:49 PM	#102
drufe Private First Class 12 Rep 158 Posts Drives: 2011 135i Coupe Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: San Diego, CA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 135i Coupe [1.00]	You should definitely upgrade that FMIC while you're at it.
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04-30-2013, 03:42 AM	#105
TheRuss Lieutenant 28 Rep 408 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: South West, UK iTrader: (0)	From everything I've read, you should feel a difference all the time. Only downside is that you'd not have an OEM cooler to switch back to if you ever needed to.
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05-02-2013, 08:23 AM	#106
makrop Lieutenant 151 Rep 475 Posts Drives: '18 M240i 6MT MGM/CR Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Broken Arrow, OK iTrader: (0)	Ok I got a question for you guys! My agent finally made it over to my shop and approved all the extra damages and approved $808 for the back third of the exhaust and to replace the muffler... BMW Performance Exhaust is $1250 from BMW so I can essentially save $800 on this. I am wondering is the BMW PE a full exhaust or is it just a muffler? The manager at my shop wasn't sure and I am needing more info on it. Is it a direct bolt-on? I assume it is, but if it required any special hangers or anything, they couldn't guarantee the work. Edit: After some quick googling, I think its just the muffler? Basically, I have $808 for free towards a new exhaust. What is the best route for me to go? Replace it back to stock at zero cost to me, or upgrade to BMW performance for about $400? Not really interested in anything aftermarket, but throw it out there anyways if there is something good and direct fit. __________________ 18' F22 M240i \| 6MT \| MGM/CR 02' E46 325i \| 5MT \| SBM/B (beater - 200k+) 10' E82 135i \| 6MT \| BSM/CR (sold) 03' E46 330ci \| 5MT \| JB/B (sold) Last edited by makrop; 05-02-2013 at 08:29 AM..
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05-02-2013, 08:32 AM	#107
TheRuss Lieutenant 28 Rep 408 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: South West, UK iTrader: (0)	BMWP exhaust bolts up to the midpipe, so I assume that's the rear 1/3 of the exhaust that needs replacing anyway? How did you manage to damage that if it was a front end hit?! Anyway, the BMWP exhaust uses the same hangers as the standard exhaust. In fact, they look identical, other than the exhaust tips and the lack of a flapper mechanism on the BMWP unit. Here in the UK you also get a resonator delete (y-pipe) section that gets rid of the midpipe resonator, but I'm not sure if you get that part in your region? Either way, you don't have to fit it, but if you do the garage will have to cut your existing midpipe to fit this portion. If it were me, I'd upgrade to the BMWP unit... but then I would say that - I'm running one myself.
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05-02-2013, 08:34 AM	#108
phobic Lieutenant 21 Rep 427 Posts Drives: 2011 135i coupe Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Woburn, MA iTrader: (3)	I saw upgrade. $400 for a BMW PE is amazing. Also, Im guessing he damaged it by driving over something while spinning out.
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05-02-2013, 08:42 AM	#109
makrop Lieutenant 151 Rep 475 Posts Drives: '18 M240i 6MT MGM/CR Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Broken Arrow, OK iTrader: (0)	Yeah, there was hardly any damage to it at all. I guess my insurance just loves spending money haha. The back third kind of got bumped and "pushed up" a bit as I skidded onto the grass. But yes, $400 for PE would be awesome. How does it compare in sound to the aFe or Berk ones? Both of these upgrades would essentially be free (< $800) http://www.********s.com/aFe-Axle-...W-E82-135i.htm http://www.*******s.com/Berk-Tech...t-E82-135i.htm I don't know anything about exhaust really, I've never upgraded it on any of my cars. I'm just trying to find some enjoyment out of this whole "experience". Edit: I guess it doesn't like links to vendors... After some more quick googling, I guess I am looking for the best "axle-back" exhaust. Just the back third. Might make a separate thread for a vote... __________________ 18' F22 M240i \| 6MT \| MGM/CR 02' E46 325i \| 5MT \| SBM/B (beater - 200k+) 10' E82 135i \| 6MT \| BSM/CR (sold) 03' E46 330ci \| 5MT \| JB/B (sold) Last edited by makrop; 05-02-2013 at 08:51 AM..*
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05-02-2013, 09:01 AM	#110
TheRuss Lieutenant 28 Rep 408 Posts Drives: BMW 135i Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: South West, UK iTrader: (0)	Yikes. That ain't gonna help your answer at all. Everyone will just recommend what they have. AFAIK, the BMWP is one of the best sounding (lots of popping and burbling), whilst retaining a stock look and quality. However, aftermarket ones may well offer other advantages, such as an extra couple of HP or reduced weight/cost, but with an axle-back you're not gonna get much of a difference in performance. You need to replace the mids and downpipes for proper HP gains. I could suggest listening to sound clips on YouTube, but there's little point because they all sound pretty similar after they've been filmed on somebody's iPhone, then played back through some laptop speakers. Really depends on you and what you feel comfortable doing. I picked the BMWP because it's supposed to sound one of the best, plus it's one of the only ones available in the UK. Wasn't cheap though.
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