[videodj]

Originally Posted by Jenly Tang

Hello mate，

You can try to turn off the Can protocol in the settings.Attachment 3209979

Thanks, I already have, gets rid of message, but controls still don't work.

Currently I'm trying it without the idrive controller connected to the MMI, I'll see how it goes, only downside is I can't code the CIC when it's wired like this.

My previous MMI didn't have this issue, just a flickering screen, so I think its an MCU issue, but Roadtop support is insisting it's wiring and keep getting me to try different configs that either don't work at all or result in the same issue. I brought from Amazon, so may just return the unit as it's just become a big pain to deal with.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by apson83

The seller recommended that I update the box.

MCU
NBT : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rqz...ew?usp=sharing

I'm afraid this is older software. The seller does not guarantee that the error will disappear.

you can’t remove this error unless you remove the mmi box. as i started prior, the system sees a non-oem device and throws an error. just ignore it entirely as it causes zero problems.

[wfaz]

Originally Posted by Sally63

Hi,

This is most likely a problem with the microphone.
You first need to know if the device has a built-in microphone, or whether it supports an external microphone. Maybe so Google can hear you. Of course, if your car has original car bluetooth, you can try it with the original car microphone, but I don't know if it will work. Maybe you can ask the seller if it supports it.
I'm using andream's device, I guess this should be about the same. Hope this helps you.

Thank you for the reply.
Its odd because if I say OK Google it will pick it up. Then it even does the sign like it can hear me talking but it rarely actually picks up what I am saying. I do wonder if it trying to use the actual phone microphone.
The box did come with an external mic cable. Maybe I should plug one in there and try it out.
Thanks again

[kwaazaar]

Hi all. I have a problem with the CIC unit: several phones are connected with BT, but it shows no phones connected (empty list). When I try to pair a new phone, it get a long way in the process, but at the end it just returns to the empty list after a while, without adding the phone.

Not sure if that's caused/related to the Andream device (I know it caused canbus issues before, but I installed that fix already).

So I would just like to do a factory reset on mu CIC device. However, I find several ways with google, but none works. I tried to press and hold for a while:
* DVD-eject + volume
* Mode + volume

Anyone here experienced such a thing? Is there any other way to reset my CIC unit?

I drive a 2012 F30 with CIC unit with a large screen and use an NBT-version of Andream, which for some reason worked fine on my CIC unit.

[raquelmam]

Originally Posted by LoveTea

Does anyone else have a problem where the Andream box continuously reboots when the ignition is off?
I can hear the mmi box clicking on and off every 30 seconds or so and the instrument cluster needles flicker when this happens which I'm guessing is voltage fluctuations.
Car is 2018 320 with Andream b version Evo 1.6.7

hi, were you able to fix it? im facing same issue

[videodj]

Originally Posted by videodj

Thanks, I already have, gets rid of message, but controls still don't work.

Currently I'm trying it without the idrive controller connected to the MMI, I'll see how it goes, only downside is I can't code the CIC when it's wired like this.

My previous MMI didn't have this issue, just a flickering screen, so I think its an MCU issue, but Roadtop support is insisting it's wiring and keep getting me to try different configs that either don't work at all or result in the same issue. I brought from Amazon, so may just return the unit as it's just become a big pain to deal with.

So I tried with just the headunit CAN connected it worked until I shut off and locked the car, then the screen wouldn't turn on, even though it was connected and playing music. So I've taken it out and returned to Amazon, and will try and find a different one, hopefully 3rd time lucky!

[propernorf]

Originally Posted by Domih

I have the upgrade file to enable HDMI on the new MMI's
It can be find in the same folder as other updates I've collected over time.
Don't forget: Updating is on your own risk. Be cautious with updates. There isn't much quality control and it's not monkeyproof.

https://102435.sharepoint.com/:f:/s/...960Xw?e=fEgw5m

Thanks for keeping the files updated, Ive noticed that EW-BMCP-NBT04X have MCU version 20230112 is it the latest available? I already have 21.9.13.122 which I thought is the latest ?

[emulajavi]

Is it possible to downgrade the MCU?

If you have a later MCU installed, is it possible to install an earlier one?

Has anyone tried it?

Thx

[videodj]

Originally Posted by RXMP

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't know really which MMI box I have. I buy it from the local online store. There is no logo on the MMI box. The system info window looks like this:



They send me instructions like this:


So maybe it is some Tuning Solutions carplay box (logo in the instructions).

Did you ever resolve this problem? I have the same issue, hardware & MCU.

[propernorf]

Originally Posted by propernorf

Thanks for keeping the files updated, Ive noticed that EW-BMCP-NBT04X have MCU version 20230112 is it the latest available? I already have 21.9.13.122 which I thought is the latest ?

I went ahead and updated both the system (V1.6.9STOACT_n) and MCU (23.1.12.117), although I wasn't sure if they're the latest versions. But hey, the file creation date was newer than what I had, so I thought, why not? The update went pretty smooth, though now I've got this new blue UI instead of the old orange one (V1.6.9r2) Not sure if I accidentally flashed some other vendor's system, but honestly, I think it looks better this way. Everything's working just fine, as expected. Oh, and the firmware update went well too, but I have no clue what's new in it coming from (21.9.13.122) Anyway, here are the latest system details for my Andream B2-Version :

Model: EW-BMCP-NBT04X
SDK Version: 25.0.0.7.0.0.2.0
CUST Version: EW_B2_V1.6.9STOACT_n
MCU Version: 23.1.12.117
HW Version: B_N2_1_G

[videodj]

Originally Posted by videodj

So I tried with just the headunit CAN connected it worked until I shut off and locked the car, then the screen wouldn't turn on, even though it was connected and playing music. So I've taken it out and returned to Amazon, and will try and find a different one, hopefully 3rd time lucky!

Well the third unit I brought from a different seller was identical to the Roadtop and had the same problem, convinced this is a firmware issue, every other post I've seen with this issue has identical hardware/firmware. I would of stuck with the Droid UK version if it hadn't been for the flickering screen, which they claim was down to wiring or wrong dip switch settings.

I may have to go the ebay route, which I was trying to avoid as it's harder to return, either that or try the Android screen option instead.

[dotmaster206]

Hey all, just installed an Andream MMI and backup camera in my 2016 340i and have a few issues that I'm hoping to get some help with. And, lesson learned to maybe help some other folks.

Issues:
- The sound when listening to music via Android Auto is much quieter and worse quality than the radio or using BMW bluetooth. I have to turn it up much higher than normal which sucks when switching between sources, and as mentioned, the quality isn't there. I have HK sound, if that makes any difference. I saw a post re: this issue saying to turn up your Aux volume to max in iDrive, but I don't see that option in my menus, just call volume can be set (and only when actively in a call for some stupid reason). Any workarounds to make the quality/volume better? I wish the MMI would allow you to use BMW bluetooth directly from the phone for all sound, not just calls but doesn't seem to be possible.

- I've seen people saying that button 8 is hardcoded to switch to Aux input, but it doesn't seem to work for me - I have to manually switch to Aux input via iDrive or steering wheel buttons to get sound from the MMI. Actually, none of my 1-8 preset buttons do anything when I have the MMI up, nor do my left/right buttons. Is this because I have NBT? Or is it something I could fix? Would be nice to at least retain function of the left right buttons so I could move through my radio preset stations while using Waze for navigation or something like that (don't care about not hearing verbal directions).

Lessons Learned:
- I have a manual transmission, so the backup camera install is different than the instructions I've seen say. They all tell you to connect the red wire on the video cable (the extra pigtail aka 'convenience wire') to the red power wire on the camera and that's it - leave the black ground taped up. That doesn't work. The camera gets power via that red convenience wire, yes (assuming you connect it to the MMI harness yellow wire for backup power) but you need a ground still. I connected ground to my taillight harness ground, which is a brown wire. As for activation, once I did that, it picked up reverse being active itself - no need for any trigger wire. Not sure how it works for auto cars and where ground comes from, but that was the only way to get my camera to power on.

- That method for powering the camera is still imperfect. With the engine off, the picture looks great but when on it looks noisy and distorted. Apparently the power is pretty dirty. The camera came with a little black box with Chinese lettering on it - apparently a signal conditioner. I should have used it - will go back and add that next weekend probably - hopefully it fixes that noisy looking image.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[videodj]

Originally Posted by videodj

Well the third unit I brought from a different seller was identical to the Roadtop and had the same problem, convinced this is a firmware issue, every other post I've seen with this issue has identical hardware/firmware. I would of stuck with the Droid UK version if it hadn't been for the flickering screen, which they claim was down to wiring or wrong dip switch settings.

I may have to go the ebay route, which I was trying to avoid as it's harder to return, either that or try the Android screen option instead.

Roadtop support finally sent me a new MCU, which I have now update, which appears to have resolved the issue, will see how it goes over the next couple of days.

CUST Version: CHLR169R3
HW Version: B_CHL_G

Old MCU - 22.10.10.118
New MCU - 23.1.6.117

File can be download from the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-0k...ew?usp=sharing

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by videodj

Roadtop support finally sent me a new MCU, which I have now update, which appears to have resolved the issue, will see how it goes over the next couple of days.

CUST Version: CHLR169R3
HW Version: B_CHL_G

Old MCU - 22.10.10.118
New MCU - 23.1.6.117

If anyone needs the firmware file, let me know.

The new 2023 MCU file would be good to have available.

[fe7565]

For those who have Google Pixel 3 but want Android 13, thus the latest AA (I use CarlPlay).

[navid0308]

Originally Posted by dotmaster206

Hey all, just installed an Andream MMI and backup camera in my 2016 340i and have a few issues that I'm hoping to get some help with. And, lesson learned to maybe help some other folks.

Issues:
- The sound when listening to music via Android Auto is much quieter and worse quality than the radio or using BMW bluetooth. I have to turn it up much higher than normal which sucks when switching between sources, and as mentioned, the quality isn't there. I have HK sound, if that makes any difference. I saw a post re: this issue saying to turn up your Aux volume to max in iDrive, but I don't see that option in my menus, just call volume can be set (and only when actively in a call for some stupid reason). Any workarounds to make the quality/volume better? I wish the MMI would allow you to use BMW bluetooth directly from the phone for all sound, not just calls but doesn't seem to be possible.

- I've seen people saying that button 8 is hardcoded to switch to Aux input, but it doesn't seem to work for me - I have to manually switch to Aux input via iDrive or steering wheel buttons to get sound from the MMI. Actually, none of my 1-8 preset buttons do anything when I have the MMI up, nor do my left/right buttons. Is this because I have NBT? Or is it something I could fix? Would be nice to at least retain function of the left right buttons so I could move through my radio preset stations while using Waze for navigation or something like that (don't care about not hearing verbal directions).

Lessons Learned:
- I have a manual transmission, so the backup camera install is different than the instructions I've seen say. They all tell you to connect the red wire on the video cable (the extra pigtail aka 'convenience wire') to the red power wire on the camera and that's it - leave the black ground taped up. That doesn't work. The camera gets power via that red convenience wire, yes (assuming you connect it to the MMI harness yellow wire for backup power) but you need a ground still. I connected ground to my taillight harness ground, which is a brown wire. As for activation, once I did that, it picked up reverse being active itself - no need for any trigger wire. Not sure how it works for auto cars and where ground comes from, but that was the only way to get my camera to power on.

- That method for powering the camera is still imperfect. With the engine off, the picture looks great but when on it looks noisy and distorted. Apparently the power is pretty dirty. The camera came with a little black box with Chinese lettering on it - apparently a signal conditioner. I should have used it - will go back and add that next weekend probably - hopefully it fixes that noisy looking image.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I increase the volume from mmi setting until it matches the level of the radio. As for quality, disabling loudness and using flat eq inside the mmi settings gave me the best quality.

8 is hard coded to switch to mmi box not aux. Some people also assign the aux front to 8 (by highlighting it using the idrive controller and pressing and holding 8 to save) - that way if you switch to the mmi by pressing and holding 8, you also switch to the aux front.

The left right buttons do work for me from inside the mmi to skip or go to prev track but I use CarPlay not AA.

[kwaazaar]

Originally Posted by navid0308

The left right buttons do work for me from inside the mmi to skip or go to prev track but I use CarPlay not AA.

For me they work on AA as well.

[videodj]

Originally Posted by kwaazaar

For me they work on AA as well.

Are you referring to the buttons on the cic under the numbers? Mine don't work in the mmi but the steering wheel buttons work fine.

[videodj]

Originally Posted by videodj

Roadtop support finally sent me a new MCU, which I have now update, which appears to have resolved the issue, will see how it goes over the next couple of days.

CUST Version: CHLR169R3
HW Version: B_CHL_G

Old MCU - 22.10.10.118
New MCU - 23.1.6.117

File can be download from the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-0k...ew?usp=sharing

The update has definitely helped seems to work most times, only times I've had issues was this morning. Car left over night, controls didn't work when I first got in, removed the fob and reinsert and started working, after that it was ok for the rest of the day. Although the controls didn't work, AA was running as music was playing on Aux.

Whilst I was coding out BMW voice assistant tonight it did it again, I pressed a few buttons, including holding the back button and it started to work again. Going to keep monitoring it over the next couple of days and see how it behaves, but at least it's an improvement.

[videodj]

The only other issue I have is that the PDC button doesn't do anything when in the MMI, the light comes on, but doesn't display the sensors, if I switch back to idrive it shows the sensors. I also noticed that the MMI only shows the pdc sensors when in reverse, unlike the idrive that shows until you go over 6mph. Bit annoying when parallel parking, pdc still makes sound, just no visual on screen without switching to idrive.

I'm waiting for a camera emulator, hopefully I can then set camera to original and use the idrive for pdc/camera. I used a splitter for the camera so I can switch between the 2 options without rewiring.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by emulajavi

Is it possible to downgrade the MCU?

If you have a later MCU installed, is it possible to install an earlier one?

Has anyone tried it?

Thx

Yes, the MCU can be downgraded. But make sure you have a backup of your current MCU version, if you may need that.

[HarryMrn]

I have Andream MMI box in my 2015 F36, for about 2 years it has been working well. But now it plays sound only on left side speakers. I have not changed any settings, there is no option to slide sound to left or right in MMI box sound settings, only EQ.

Original Harman Kardon system works well and I can use original BT connection to listen music, but then I do not hear Waze notifications from carlplay.

Its minor issue but maybe anyone has an idea how to resolve this problem?

Thanks!