What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Oil change, differential fluid change, stupid retention clip popped off the top helper spring pin on the clutch pedal (pain to reinstall), replaced a couple of mashed jack points, washed and waxed...

Good move replacing the jack points. One of mine broke while on a stand and it made for a very bad day...

[Papa Popov]

Replaced my 6FL port with the newest P/N. Had tons of issues including static/distortion and one side of the audio cutting out until you cranked up the volume which were driving me up the wall.

After install and some brief testing the new ports seem to have fixed my issues. Not really surprised cause using the old aux port was like throwing a hotdog down a hallway while the new one is nice and snug. New port also seems to have improved clarity a bit. Could be a placebo, but wouldn't be surprised if the much more solid connection did result in an improvement

Also swapped back the broomstick back to the ZHP knob once again. Been flip flopping between the two for a while but I think I've finally settled on the ZHP.

[Suprgnat]

Finally made it out. Thunderhill West, 16 October.

[________]

Oil change.

Sometimes I’ll pour a quart of the new oil in the filter housing while the old oil is draining, to flush out the ducts from the old oil… too much? Oh well lol makes me feel better

[gerikivan]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Is that a big job on these cars? Front subframe out?

i did it on a lift so it wasnt that hard for me but it was a long process because of the the plastic stuff in the way and all the under panels.. one issue that i encounter is the outlet pipe silicone hose inbetween the turbo shrink so i had to cut and put a new silicone hose. for lhd it is easier since the steering rack linkage is in the other side.

[WrathOTM]

Installed these...things on the sunroof. Not sure why mine were missing or if they were never installed on the 1 from the factory.

[1and1]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

Installed these...things on the sunroof. Not sure why mine were missing or if they were never installed on the 1 from the factory.

The fan shaped air deflector thingys?

Interesting...
I was just looking at mine the other day wondering if that's a thing that needs cleaning... like a sunroof maintenance item.

But yeah, they've been there as long as I've owned my 1er

[WrathOTM]

yeah lol, those

[1and1]

Huh...., nifty

Not sure if it matters, but mine is a super early 2009 model year

Basically 9 or 10/2008, so it has the y1ot1 start button bezel, but has the bigger '09 nav screen.

As far as I know those things were OE and I'd be surprised to find it was a cost cutting exercise on the 128!

[tracer bullet]

Swapped the manual transmission fluid tonight, going from MTF-LT2 to try the Redline D4. After a lot of reading and chatting with Redline the D4 was worth a try. See if I can shift a little better in winter (I do actually drive the car occasionally if the roads are clear - no snow or salt).

Going to do the oil tomorrow, it's been only a couple thousand miles but it's been a year.

I stuck it in a different thread specific to the gearbox oil, but if anyone here knows... for a 135i, manual trans fluid, I only got about 1.25 or so quarts put back in before it came out the fill plug hole. Car was level (ramps front, stands back). I didn't allow the old stuff to drain forever, but the majority of it was certainly gone. Does that sound right? I was expecting to get closer to 2 quarts in. And no I wasn't doing the rear diff or anything, I was under the shifter, maybe forward a foot or so, with the pair of 8mm allen plugs and etc.

[Hermtheworm]

once I'm done the dreaded turbo replacement process I'm moving on to installing a big ol CTS intercooler and a couple other goodies.

[hoki06]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Swapped the manual transmission fluid tonight, going from MTF-LT2 to try the Redline D4. After a lot of reading and chatting with Redline the D4 was worth a try. See if I can shift a little better in winter (I do actually drive the car occasionally if the roads are clear - no snow or salt).

Going to do the oil tomorrow, it's been only a couple thousand miles but it's been a year.

I stuck it in a different thread specific to the gearbox oil, but if anyone here knows... for a 135i, manual trans fluid, I only got about 1.25 or so quarts put back in before it came out the fill plug hole. Car was level (ramps front, stands back). I didn't allow the old stuff to drain forever, but the majority of it was certainly gone. Does that sound right? I was expecting to get closer to 2 quarts in. And no I wasn't doing the rear diff or anything, I was under the shifter, maybe forward a foot or so, with the pair of 8mm allen plugs and etc.

Capacity shown in Alldata is 1.6L (1.7qt) so that sounds about right, especially if the fluid wasn't hot when draining.

[tracer bullet]

Yeah I think it's that simple. It's funny I'm 2nd guessing it. The little bit of reservoir at the bottom of the transmission case before it hits the fill port is really short / small. I knew before I got started that it wasn't really going to hold much.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Swapped the manual transmission fluid tonight, going from MTF-LT2 to try the Redline D4. After a lot of reading and chatting with Redline the D4 was worth a try. See if I can shift a little better in winter (I do actually drive the car occasionally if the roads are clear - no snow or salt).

Going to do the oil tomorrow, it's been only a couple thousand miles but it's been a year.

I stuck it in a different thread specific to the gearbox oil, but if anyone here knows... for a 135i, manual trans fluid, I only got about 1.25 or so quarts put back in before it came out the fill plug hole. Car was level (ramps front, stands back). I didn't allow the old stuff to drain forever, but the majority of it was certainly gone. Does that sound right? I was expecting to get closer to 2 quarts in. And no I wasn't doing the rear diff or anything, I was under the shifter, maybe forward a foot or so, with the pair of 8mm allen plugs and etc.

I recently swapped the factory fill to RL D4 ATF.
Pretty noticeable difference, and improvement over stock.

I think I used around 1.75L, give or take. Can check what's remaining in the bottle if you like.

[tracer bullet]

Thanks but I'm sure I'm OK. It was overflowing out the hole so, I just didn't drain out as much as normal. I double checked that the car is level, and it is, so I'm going with it.

[K9Leader]

When I bought Little Red, my 2011 128i, a year ago, it had all kinds of ABS and traction control warnings on and could not be driven unless traction control was turned off. The sensors were good so I decided it was the reluctor rings on the axles that the sensors were reading - they had corrosion built up under them and were throwing off the sensors. Quick fix was shimming the sensor out with a washer but long-term fix would be replacing the axles (yes, you can pull the old axles and install new rings but with 141K miles better to just put in new axles).

I finally got started on the job a couple of weeks ago, and, as is often the case, getting the old parts off was the most difficult part of the job (so far). I started on the right side (that is where the codes related to the problem were coming from), but could not get the axle out of the splines - it was seized in good. I had been questioning whether I should also do the bearings and hubs (and the control arms/bushings) but that was going to ramp up the cost significantly. Fate made the decision for me with the seized axle. Poking around on the auction site I found entire assemblies for sale - knuckles, bearings, hubs, all control arms, and axles for a reasonable price (I had the seller separate the axles and keep them since I already had my new ones). They were newer (90K miles) and cleaner/less rusty (off a Texas car) so I went that route. Biggest obstacle I had was the toe arm bolt to the subframe was seized and had to be cut out with a reciprocating saw.

I've got the right side on, with the exception of the eccentric bolt for the toe arm (I ordered the wrong part so correct one is on its way).


While I wait for the needed bolts, I tried separating the old axle from the old assembly. It took a puller/pusher tool, a lot of penetrating oil, and a lot of banging but I did eventually get it:


Inspecting under the rings, it certainly did look nasty:


The new axles from GKN have solved the corrosion problem but making the ring an integral part of the axle housing (i.e., molded or cast in) rather than a separate ring.

The old knuckle - I'll have to get the old hub and bearing out and then get it cleaned up and maybe it will be worth something - new ones go for over $800, so . . . maybe . . .


I'm taking the opportunity while everything is out to clean and paint the brake calipers/brackets (just going with black) and then will switch out the brake lines to braided stainless and do a brake bleed/flush. I won't be able to get back to it until next week so Little Red will sit up on the Quickjack for another few days.

[brake-fade]

Been there, done that! While you're there, you may want to check and make sure the 4 eccentric bolts used for adjusting the alignment can rotate and are not seized. I'd even recommend that you replace them regardless, as a preventative maintenance thing. I had to cut 2 of the bolts and one snapped because they were seized. When I dropped my rear subframe to totally rebuil the rear suspension, including replacing all 13 pressed in bushings, the rusted fasteners were the biggest problem.

[tracer bullet]

Wash & wax. Put the winter wheels and tires on. Oil showed up, Liqui Moly 0W40 LL-01 from FCP, and so that finally got put in.

Car is tip top!

[mkeiser]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Wash & wax. Put the winter wheels and tires on. Oil showed up, Liqui Moly 0W40 LL-01 from FCP, and so that finally got put in.

Car is tip top!

I this this is exactly what's on my docket this weekend...

[JohnRa]

Originally Posted by BikeNHV

Recently had a shop replace my oil pan gasket (didn't feel like going through the hassle of supporting the engine from the top). So I followed up by replacing the trans mounts, as the engine oil leak had started to soak the rubber.
Also swapped back to OE manual trans fluid plus friction modifier. The MT-LV felt good at first but seemed to degrade quickly.
THEN swapped from base black seats to red sport seats. Manual too!
Followed by some pics in the fog.

Silly question but were your original seats manual as well? (I have power base seats and dream of putting in manual sport seats but assume this would cause some computer issues!)

[Thunderguts]

Originally Posted by JohnRa

Silly question but were your original seats manual as well? (I have power base seats and dream of putting in manual sport seats but assume this would cause some computer issues!)

As long as you code them out, it's no problem at all. It's relatively easy to do as long as you have an OBD adapter.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by brake-fade

Been there, done that! While you're there, you may want to check and make sure the 4 eccentric bolts used for adjusting the alignment can rotate and are not seized. I'd even recommend that you replace them regardless, as a preventative maintenance thing. I had to cut 2 of the bolts and one snapped because they were seized. When I dropped my rear subframe to totally rebuil the rear suspension, including replacing all 13 pressed in bushings, the rusted fasteners were the biggest problem.

Yes, I'm replacing all the eccentric bolts - I accidentally ordered four of one size instead of two-and-two. Hoping to get it all back together next week.