Lower control arms (lower wishbones) frozen

[studiogroverbeach]

Hi all, thanks for reading ... I'm DIY replacing my lower control arms. Following lots of good DIY forum posts + Youtube. However, I got stuck on two points:
1. The arm is frozen to the steering assembly. I've pounded on it with a hammer, put pressure on it from various angles. Has anyone encountered this? They are not threaded onto the wheel mount, correct? I've put some PB Blaster on it and will let it sit overnight.
Video link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nXq9LjGHo8mTvg1o7

2. The other problem is it looks like Amazon sent me two 'right' arms. This is what I ordered:

"Front Right" -- TRW Automotive JTC1427 Suspension Control Arm for BMW M3: 2008-2013 and other applications
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T9YJL8K...t_details&th=1
"Front Left" -- TRW Automotive JTC1426 Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly for BMW M3: 2008-2013 and other applications Front Left Lower Rearward
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T9YJL0I...roduct_details

However this picture is what I got. You can see the serial numbers are both the same.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a9ye7HwcEnHs2Tm86
On the plus side, it looks like both of these are made in Germany.
Original on the car:
Driver: https://photos.app.goo.gl/x1DghDewBCZKVaPR9 -- ends in 577
Passenger: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uwp35tnEv9jDBCiH9 -- ends in 578

Thank you for your help!

[studiogroverbeach]

A quick update on the lower control arm situation ...

It is stuck! I have tried a pickle fork, a pitman arm puller, hammering the side of the knuckle, propping up the suspension while lodging the fork in the gap between the control arm and the knuckle and then rapidly lowering the suspension. Still frozen!
It's been soaked in PB blaster for two days now.
Ideas:
1. I can keep hammering at it and see if I can use the Autozone tool, OEM tie rod puller.
2. There is another puller I'd like to use, but it is too small, not enough heigh clearance, so I'm thinking about CUTTING the bolt down a bit shorter, but still enough height so I can use this tool.
3. Last idea is to use a blow torch to rapidly heat it up and then cool it. I'd rather not have to buy a blow torch for this, but it's a last resort.

Any thoughts?

[Camnyc]

Map gas torch and a deadblow, put the nut on backwards and use your dead blow after heating the knuckle up, you can pull the whole assembly off the car to get better leverage.

[studiogroverbeach]

I wanted to avoid going to gas torch ... soaked it in PB blaster for another 24 hours, and then used a 3 lb sledge hammer to knock the knuckle only. After 4-5 good hits, finally came loose. Fortunately didn't have to pull the whole assembly off. Got both control arms installed quickly, only 30 minutes to reverse the process, adding anti-seize to all of the bolts. Is that right? Or is Loc-tite recommended instead?

After the replacement, it reduced highway speed vibrations by about 60%, and then did a balancing reducing it further 20% ... getting an alignment today so hoping to get to 100% stability!

Also, replacing the arms, the steering is much more precise, also slightly lighter to the touch. Instant responsiveness.

Arm removed: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rZAAYxjjz8EwD64H6
New arm installed: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xx17vvGms6aSANn78
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/92mW5mnYomtCNfsYA

[Jon H]

Thanks for the info. I just picked up a new to me 2008 M3 and the steering is super sloppy. Gonna look up the procedure and see about doing this myself with new control arms. Maybe I'll see you around, I'm just down in Orcutt and work in Avila.