[julianperezz]

Hello guys, I have a 57k mile 335is. I had just recently bought used index 12's, new HPFP, walnut blast, and change the oil. the mods I have are list below ARM Inlets and outlets walbro fuel pump
MHD V7 E60 tune
5' intercooler
VSRF charge pipe
I was driving today and started hearing a loud knocking noise, and rattling. It had thrown a hpfp code right before this that I had cleared. Luckily I was just down the street so I took it back to my house. I took some videos of the noise listed in the YouTube links below, and checked the oil filter. There are metal shavings in my oil filter and I had just changed my oil right after my walnut blast (2k miles ago). I don't know if this is normal or not, I need help diagnosing this issue, I can't tell if its my rod bearings, lifter knock, wastegate rattle or maybe my alternator or water pump, maybe even a bad injector. I'm leaning towards my VANOS Solenoids.
A. Because my oil smells like fuel
B. the ticking is coming from the camshafts it sounds like
C. I have never cleaned my solenoids
D. My car only has 57k miles.
E. I'm in denial and I'm really hoping its something simple.
Any advice on what you guys think it is.
https://youtube.com/shorts/wJPxL5WXymg (knocking noise)
https://youtube.com/shorts/s43B0GkNlzA (metal flakes)

[NZE90]

That looks like copper particles in the oil, so it's your rod bearings.

[julianperezz]

After further inspection, I was checking the spark plugs to see their health. They were covered in oil and fuel, I tried replacing them but the knocking noise was still present. I’m going to run a compression test tomorrow.

[TheMechanic]

I am afraid the rhythm of the tick is the same as your crankshaft spinning...... you know what that means. I hope I am wrong.

[NZE90]

You should be focusing on the copper particles in the oil. That is a MAJOR concern. Bad rod bearings= copper particles in the oil.

[julianperezz]

Now if it is bad rod bearings, does this mean I need to pull the motor and rebuild it or can I just do the rod bearings by taking off the oil pan?

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

with the large amount of copper debris in the oil filter, this debris has found its way to all internals....and may have degraded other bearing surfaces, camshaft surfaces, crankshaft bearing surfaces, VANOS orifices, etc, etc....if the goal is to retain the car long-term, engine removal, complete disassembly, engine block, head sent out to be boiled to remove all metallic debris prior to rebuild with all new bearings, cylinders and pistons assessed for wear + / - tolerances, all new gaskets, valves assessed to determine if the head needs full servicing etc, etc, etc

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

suggestion: do not operate the engine as this could cause more damage.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by julianperezz

Now if it is bad rod bearings, does this mean I need to pull the motor and rebuild it or can I just do the rod bearings by taking off the oil pan?

you can do it by removing the oil pan. It's not that expensive in DIY, but time consuming for sure. Make sure you have the right rod bearing brand, the tools and the torque specs.

For my beater I did it myself, but for my built, I paid someone, no risk to mess with one of few parts that has the most velocity.

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

greetings julian,
any update(s) on the status of the 335is's n54 powerplant??

[julianperezz]

Hello, yes I ran a compression test and cylinders 2,3,4,5 came back bad. Going to rebuild the engine with forged internals and go single turbo!

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by julianperezz

Hello, yes I ran a compression test and cylinders 2,3,4,5 came back bad. Going to rebuild the engine with forged internals and go single turbo!

if possible, update this thread with info re the build (did the cylinders need boring, etc); if you are disassembling / reassembling any wins / losses you experience, if you had the engine block boiled to remove metal shavings, etc.