[Vdt0001]

Hello! I was curious as to what the consensus is on installing a CP with a Cobb Tune as the only modification. My idea with choosing COBB was that I wanted to keep the car as stock as possible while under warranty in case something comes up (my dealership would not look the other way). Anyone had issues with the cp on just a cobb tune on aggressive stage 1? If it blows I could uninstall cobb and get it fixed for free but I HATE going there and don't want anything exploding under the hood.

[Markus8291]

Originally Posted by Vdt0001

Hello! I was curious as to what the consensus is on installing a CP with a Cobb Tune as the only modification. My idea with choosing COBB was that I wanted to keep the car as stock as possible while under warranty in case something comes up (my dealership would not look the other way). Anyone had issues with the cp on just a cobb tune on aggressive stage 1? If it blows I could uninstall cobb and get it fixed for free but I HATE going there and don't want anything exploding under the hood.

the chargepipe alone can't harm anything so the dealer can't deny anything warranty related if you bring it in with a chargepipe on. I've never taken my cp of for a dealer visit and they've never said a word. As far as getting one, as soon as I tool off the flimsy plastic stock cp I knew I made the right choice in getting an aftermarket one.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

You can always keep it stock and wait for it to break. However, it usually happens at the worst time.

The CP is a relatively easy installation.

Your best bet is just to remove it before you go to dealer. Should take no more then 30 minutes.

Plus you don't want to break your stock CP as you will have to buy a new one of those just to go to the dealer and they are expensive.

[Vdt0001]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

You can always keep it stock and wait for it to break. However, it usually happens at the worst time.

The CP is a relatively easy installation.

Your best bet is just to remove it before you go to dealer. Should take no more then 30 minutes.

Plus you don't want to break your stock CP as you will have to buy a new one of those just to go to the dealer and they are expensive.

As long as I stay off the boost is there any harm done when it cracks as I limp home?

[mister wiggles]

i drove 300 miles with a detached CP. gradual accelleration is key. keep your RPM <3k to prevent any sort of boost pressure build up which will trigger the sensor to "check engine" as it will detect a boost leak.

[SRT14PimPin07]

I would recommend you to get an aftermarket CP. It's very easy to install/uninstall. That $200 dollars is not worth getting stranded, risking dirt getting into your engine by driving with a broken stock CP, thus causing bigger problems. Just remove it every time you take it in.
Edit: Also that way you don't have to worry about the dealer warrantying the CP or not.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Vdt0001

Hello! I was curious as to what the consensus is on installing a CP with a Cobb Tune as the only modification. My idea with choosing COBB was that I wanted to keep the car as stock as possible while under warranty in case something comes up (my dealership would not look the other way). Anyone had issues with the cp on just a cobb tune on aggressive stage 1? If it blows I could uninstall cobb and get it fixed for free but I HATE going there and don't want anything exploding under the hood.

You can get an aftermarket CP (ER,AA or VRSF) to be on the safe side.

[MNick]

Originally Posted by Vdt0001

Hello! I was curious as to what the consensus is on installing a CP with a Cobb Tune as the only modification. My idea with choosing COBB was that I wanted to keep the car as stock as possible while under warranty in case something comes up (my dealership would not look the other way). Anyone had issues with the cp on just a cobb tune on aggressive stage 1? If it blows I could uninstall cobb and get it fixed for free but I HATE going there and don't want anything exploding under the hood.

I ran stage 2 aggressive and stage 1 + with stock CP, without problems. I upgraded CP once running stage 2+ aggressive. YOU DO NOT NEED A CP FOR STAGE 1. Cobb doesn't recommend it until Stage 2+.

[mister wiggles]

Originally Posted by MNick

I ran stage 2 aggressive and stage 1 + with stock CP, without problems. I upgraded CP once running stage 2+ aggressive. YOU DO NOT NEED A CP FOR STAGE 1. Cobb doesn't recommend it until Stage 2+.

cobb should rethink this strategy. i blew my CP running stage 1 pulling out of a parking lot this past weekend...can you imagine the fun?


Can you?

[Tiago@VRSF]

We offer what is currently the most cost effective N55 CP upgrade available if you're interested in upgrading. These CP's can blow on stock tunes and WILL blow on above stock boost levels. They start @ $159.99 and the OEM throttle body connection is only $25 more.



http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-chargep...i-n54-n55.html

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

We offer what is currently the most cost effective N55 CP upgrade available if you're interested in upgrading. These CP's can blow on stock tunes and WILL blow on above stock boost levels. They start @ $159.99 and the OEM throttle body connection is only $25 more.



http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-chargep...i-n54-n55.html

Completely forgot about VRSF
i have edited my previous post

[MNick]

Originally Posted by mister wiggles

cobb should rethink this strategy. i blew my CP running stage 1 pulling out of a parking lot this past weekend...can you imagine the fun?


Can you?

That's unfortunate, not sure what kind of success you had pulling out last weekend. Sorry to hear it.

Perhaps a CP would be a safe strategy, as the consequence of failure is anything but fun. If you r going to really play it safe… Consider the OEM piping between the turbo - FMIC - CP it isn't as exactly strong, and to be really safe you would replace it, as is done with FMIC installation.

However, a better strategy to increase performance would a DP. Installation isn't fun, but you'll be happy once done… unless CP blows…

I installed FMIC and DP with aggressive MAPs and had no problems with OEM CP for the ~7,000 miles it was on. Boost psi measured high teens with stage 1+ aggressive.