[bot.23]

Hello everyone.
Recently drained my battery and could not start the car. Called a guy so he jump started it with his car.
At the moment when he attached cables my vipers got crazy uncontrollably wiping. After engine started it gone and went to normal.
After few minutes of idling a bunch of errors popped up and restarting the car all cleared.
So I went for a drive and my car started throwing overheating errors and red warnings. Popped the hood and coolant in was spitting under the reservoir also with cracking sounds inside. Seemed as it was boiling.
Also got this list of codes at that time - they wont clear for the time and are showing after few minutes of driving as well as coolant boils in expansion tank.
What it could be, so it gone so wrong?

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[bot.23]

[GoRomeo]

Man thats really weird. Did you jump the car using the Positive post out in the front hood engine nay and not and not the batter in the trunk?

Did you register the new battery?

[bot.23]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Man thats really weird. Did you jump the car using the Positive post out in the front hood engine nay and not and not the batter in the trunk?

Did you register the new battery?

Thanks for the reply.
No, I did not registered the battery as I haven't changed it so far.
As far as I get digging through forum and other site - it could be a pump fuse. But I have a really strange ECU box, as it looks like for non-turbo lci according to diagram on this site

https://fuse-box.info/wp-content/upl...onT_from07.jpg https://fuse-box.info/bmw/bmw-3-seri...uses-and-relay
So I got only one 50A fuse in that box, relay and ECU itself. Fuse looks fine.
Didn't look on the exact fuses in the glove box as there was no paper scheme and taking into consideration strange ECU box I decided to dig a bit more to be as clear as it possible. So far on this it looks like there was 3 types of that fuse boxes and location for representing coolant pump are the same, but with different numbers.

[BRG_N54]

My car did this when the voltage regulator went bad. If the alternator is not supplying sufficient power for the car, it will shut off electrical items, even the water pump.

Use the hidden KOMBI menu to view the voltage with the car running, it should be between 13.5v-14.5v. Any more or less is a sign the regulator is shot. This will also cause your battery to fail prematurely.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bot.23

... Recently drained my battery and could not start the car. Called a guy so he jump started it with his car. At the moment when he attached cables my vipers got crazy uncontrollably wiping. After engine started it gone and went to normal...

Originally Posted by bot.23

Thanks for the reply. No, I did not registered the battery as I haven't changed it so far...

WHERE did "a guy" attach the Jumper Cables? At the Battery? WITHOUT disconnecting the (-) Battery Terminal? Connecting Jumper Cables or Booster to Battery Terminals in Boot can damage the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) on the (-) Terminal. ALWAYS use Jumpstart Terminals under hood.

Take a GOOD Look at the Negative Battery Terminal, and the IBS "Box" attached to it. There should be two small wires that run to a blue connector on the vehicle wiring harness, AND a single wire (in black sheath) to another Blue connector that connects to (snaps into) rear of Rear Power Distribution Panel on top of battery. Try DIS-connecting BOTH of those blue connectors, and see what codes/ issues you have. Then plug in the smaller (2-wire) blue connector to vehicle harness, and recheck for codes/ issues, clearing codes that WILL clear.

Finally, reconnect "snap-in" connector to rear of RPDP, Clear codes, recheck for codes & issues & report all.
George