Track forum general chit chat.

[jmeenach]

Originally Posted by b4hand

I am planning on trying the 034 Motorsports version you can get from FCP Euro. Lifetime replacement too and their J-Hook design will match my front AP kit. Oh I should add I am going to the M4 370mm rears with the Seems Legit Garage kit, and M4 calipers.

Do you have a link to them? I can only find 380mm fronts when I search. Looking to go with OEM sizing for the time being.

[StripclubDJ]

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[reidetailing]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

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Mother of God.

[reidetailing]

Originally Posted by reidetailing

Have any of you deleted the EVAP system? Looking to get some more info on this but was having trouble finding many people who have successfully done this.

Seems like deleting it and all associated components will shed a substantial amount of weight.

This will affect cold starts I presume (less loud firing process)? Anything else to be expected doing this?

Following up...any of you guys do this?
StripclubDJ omgzirra_exe okusa turbo_joe Cmassey3

[VicS5]

See this thread.
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28008378
I’m in the middle of this now. Removed charcoal cannister, secondary air pump, associated hoses and EGR valves and plugged the holes on the back of the engine with the plates from NRW Design. Just received hoses yesterday and a discriminator valve to build a new tank vent routing. I have an Epic tune to code out the CEL.

One unresolved question for me is what to do with the hose that runs from the charcoal cannister to the idle control valve on top of the engine (beneath the wiring harness). Do I plug it? That’s what I’ve done and car seems to run fine, but I’m only able to test drive it up and down my driveway.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by reidetailing

Following up...any of you guys do this?
StripclubDJ omgzirra_exe okusa turbo_joe Cmassey3

I removed the entire evap system from the rear of my car. I didnt mess with anything under the hood though.

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

Been bust trying to get the car ready. My first race is in a few weeks.

Installed the MCS 2 ways last week. Got the canisters mounted yesterday.

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53612879424_5ededff469_h.jpg[/img]Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53612747468_5903e60781_h.jpg[/img]Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53612537576_8f002e3300_h.jpg[/img]Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr


Dropped the subframe to install a new sway bar

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53589185921_a40ad7e311_h.jpg[/img]Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr


Changed up the rear diffuser. I lowered it a couple inches and now the exhaust comes out above it instead of through it. Also changed my setup for mounting the back of it.

Ignore the damaged rear bumper and terrible wrap. I have a spare but dont have the time to swap it and rewrap it right now [...]

Would love more info on the rear diffuser

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by mikerunt

Would love more info on the rear diffuser

Its just a DIY build, nothing special. What would you like to know?

Old setup had the exhaust going through it, just kind of figuring it out as I go. The diffuser took some damage from racing so I had to rebuild my rear mounts. Decided at the same time to change it up some, lower it and bring the exhaust out above the diffuser.

The entire diffuser is 6' long and goes a good bit past the rear diff. I also run a diff cooler since I am not getting any airflow to the diff now

Old

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

New setup, you can see how much shorter the strakes are so I can reduce the angle of the diffuser.

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

This was before finishing things up but this is the front half under the car before I added 1" strakes to this piece (which have no been mostly ground down flat lol)

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

[mikerunt]

This is a great DIY right up. Thanks for sharing the detail. I’m going to tackle a diffuser sometime this summer and am just gathering details on how to do so

[derbo]

Originally Posted by jmeenach

Does anyone in this thread have recommendations for two-piece rear rotors that work with the OEM caliper? I've searched the thread and mostly found options related to F8x rear retrofit, but I'm looking to keep my stock rear calipers for now (if possible).

I've heard good things about Girodisc, but it doesn't appear they make rears to match. Turner appears to have fronts and rears, but I haven't heard much about them.

Currently running stock calipers and rotors F/R, stainless lines, Endless ME20 pads, and SRF fluid for reference. I attend 8-10 track days per year and will be upgrading to a front BBK at some point later this year, but that just isn't in the cards at this exact moment.

Like omgzirra_exe said, there is paragon rear rotors. I run their front rotors with AP 9660 calipers with no issues so far. I have friends who also replaced their AP Racing J hooks with replacement rings from them without any major issues that I know of.

I'm currently running stock rear caliper/rotor with pad swaps. I haven't seen a need to replace the rotors with upgraded ones but I definitely would be exploring the Paragon rears in the future when the time comes.

[Bimmer Barney]

Hi All - Does anyone have measurements from their 3DM Ohlins Track Day kit? I'm trying to baseline my settings because I've narrowed down the clunk noise to the Driver's Side front coilover. I can't use the Ohlins R&T manual settings because the Track Day kit has a shorter swift spring. I've called Ohlins and they say "Call 3DM" but after about a month of follow ups and calls, no response from Barry. Argh...

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Hi All - Does anyone have measurements from their 3DM Ohlins Track Day kit? I'm trying to baseline my settings because I've narrowed down the clunk noise to the Driver's Side front coilover. I can't use the Ohlins R&T manual settings because the Track Day kit has a shorter swift spring. I've called Ohlins and they say "Call 3DM" but after about a month of follow ups and calls, no response from Barry. Argh...

i should have my car back from the shop early next week. what specifically do you want measured?

[Bimmer Barney]

I asked Barry “What are the measurements from top of spring mount to camber plate and measurement from bottom of spring mount lock ring to top of shock length lock ring.” Basically spring and shock measurements like they’re referenced in the Ohlins manual. I wanted to know how Barry sets them up and ships them out.

Put differently, how much preload on the swift spring and what’s the shock length measurement.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I asked Barry “What are the measurements from top of spring mount to camber plate and measurement from bottom of spring mount lock ring to top of shock length lock ring.” Basically spring and shock measurements like they’re referenced in the Ohlins manual. I wanted to know how Barry sets them up and ships them out.

Put differently, how much preload on the swift spring and what’s the shock length measurement.

What’s the old and new spring lengths and rates? Is there a helper or tender spring? Is this the Ohlins dedicated track kit (listed on their website) or is it 3DM’s version (or is the 3DM version the Ohlins version)?

[Bimmer Barney]

It’s the 3DM track day kit. No helper springs. I need to measure the Ohlins R&T springs versus the swift springs.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

It’s the 3DM track day kit. No helper springs. I need to measure the Ohlins R&T springs versus the swift springs.

I believe they are 65mm ID 7" and 9" springs. 450 and 800lb/in



My wifes Ohlins RT had an issue where they updated the internal piston and the tolerance was just large enough to cause clunking noises over slow bumps. Ultimately they had to rebuild the front dampers to resolve that. Not sure if it is related to this but certainly a possibility.

[jmeenach]

For everyone that has been giving me insight to my current alignment issue:

I waited to realign the car until my new tire/wheel combo arrived. With changing to a square setup, I wanted to avoid potential need to setting the car up twice.

The shop I go to for alignment told me the instability problems I'm experiencing are likely due to the rake on the car. After the springs settled, the front sat substantially lower than the rear. The front of the car was raised 3/8", with the rear being dropped minimally (I think he said around 1/16"). I'll be testing the car out this weekend at Spring Mountain, so I'll have to wait a few weeks until I can do the true test at WSIR.

New alignment specs: -3.25 w/ 0 toe F, -2.7 w/ 1/8" toe-in R.

Below is a (crappy) pic from when I picked the car up Saturday in the rain.

[StripclubDJ]

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[jmeenach]

Originally Posted by stripclubdj

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the hotness

[reidetailing]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

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Too nice

[kolosy]

So I installed a GT4 spoiler (because I had it, and because I wanted to balance out the GT4 lip). I made custom reinforcement plates by just aping Burkhart's design (would've bought theirs but they were on backorder and it's literally just a rectangular plate with 2 holes in it) and having sendcutsend make it.

Problem is that it's behaving like I thought it would. Terribly. I can move the spoiler front to back byt an inch or two without much effort, and when you shut the trunk it vibrates like a cheap antenna. I know the GT4 spoilers don't really have that much downforce but I'm still not loving the idea of it being that loose. Anyone have better ideas? Otherwise I might try to fab up a brace that ties in the fenders or something.

[turbo_joe]

Ready for race weekend at Summit Point

Gonna be more of a shakedown weekend working on tuning the new suspension.

[IMG]Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr[/IMG]

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Also finally got around to modding the driver door to be able to remove it to load it in the trailer.

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Made an easy mount on the wall with some e-track and J hooks to hold the door during transport

by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr