[Cytoplasm0671]

Originally Posted by toxik

those rogue engineering mounts are for RWD only according to their site... weird I figured there would be no difference between Xdrive and RWD.

edit: just did 5 minutes of research and it seems all aftermarket options are for RWD mounts only

I think it will still fit. The transmission of both cars seem the exact same to me, which means the transmission mount points are the same. Maybe the Xdrive isn't listed simply because that version is less common.

If you see the transmission mount product page here, you'll see the F30 was not even listed. I contacted Ben at Rogue and asked him if it would fit my 2017 340i, and I didn't specify it was a RWD, and he said it would. So I would reach out to ben(a)rogueengineering.com and ask if the mounts will fit the Xdrive version. My guess is he will say they do. If they say they'll fit and they don't, you can probably return them for a full refund. It's a $60 part either way.

Edit: I was wrong. See below posts.

[toxik]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

I think it will still fit. The transmission of both cars seem the exact same to me, which means the transmission mount points are the same. Maybe the Xdrive isn't listed simply because that version is less common.

If you see the transmission mount product page here, you'll see the F30 was not even listed. I contacted Ben at Rogue and asked him if it would fit my 2017 340i, and I didn't specify it was a RWD, and he said it would. So I would reach out to ben(a)rogueengineering.com and ask if the mounts will fit the Xdrive version. My guess is he will say they do. If they say they'll fit and they don't, you can probably return them for a full refund. It's a $60 part either way.

yeah i'll do more research once I get closer to my clutch replacement service, I was going to get OEM mounts but I like how these rogues look, for some reason I thought all the replacement non-oem options would be solid mounts which are too harsh imo.

[seanquest]

Love the build so far. I’m currently getting all the required parts/upgrades for my clutch job soon, I appreciate all the tips. Just to add a few cents, The transmission mounts apparently “fit” according to rogue engineering.

[toxik]

Originally Posted by seanquest

Love the build so far. I’m currently getting all the required parts/upgrades for my clutch job soon, I appreciate all the tips. Just to add a few cents, The transmission mounts apparently “fit” according to rogue engineering.

hey sean, i'd be careful with their advice on it fitting. the geometry and support type of the mount is completely different from RWD to AWD:

AWD Diagram:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0121

RWD Diagram:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0187

[Cytoplasm0671]

Originally Posted by toxik

hey sean, i'd be careful with their advice on it fitting. the geometry and support type of the mount is completely different from RWD to AWD:

AWD Diagram:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0121

RWD Diagram:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0187

Wow. No kidding.

Would be interesting if you could get under your car and snap a picture of this.

[seanquest]

Yeah I figured. Not a lot of options for us.

[popal159]

It’s worth the money. You won’t be disappointed
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ดูหนัง 2023

[B58 parts]

I read your clutch DIY again. What jack stand set up did you use? 20 in of space. I'll have to see how high I can get mine. I have the esco stands.

If I understand correctly you had to remove the transmission from the hoist while still under the car as the height of the hoist plus the transmission is a little bit more than 20 in. So you couldn't wheel it out. Then you had to put it back on the hoist outside of the car to move around and clean and replace input shaft seal which I see pictured. Then back under the car you had to somehow get it on the hoist underneath. Is that correct? Do you have any estimate how much height you would actually need to get it all out together. A few more inches?

I wonder if you could use a floor jack to lift it a little bit and push the hoist under instead of your body as you were saying. I don't know I might just have to do that like you describe. In my case there's also a big transfer case attached to the back.

How hard did you have to wiggle it to get it off the engine.. was it a struggle, and did the car shake at all on the jack stands that's all l I'm worried about. I'm trying to determine if the engine swap will be safer/easier by dropping the trans first v.s. craning both engine and trans out together as a long heavy unit.

[Cytoplasm0671]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

Is that correct? Do you have any estimate how much height you would actually need to get it all out together. A few more inches?

I wonder if you could use a floor jack to lift it a little bit and push the hoist under instead of your body as you were saying. I don't know I might just have to do that like you describe. In my case there's also a big transfer case attached to the back.

How hard did you have to wiggle it to get it off the engine.. was it a struggle, and did the car shake at all on the jack stands that's all l I'm worried about. I'm trying to determine if the engine swap will be safer/easier by dropping the trans first v.s. craning both engine and trans out together as a long heavy unit.

Yes that's correct. I had 20 inches so I had to slide the transmission on the concrete, tho others have slid it on a work blanket. But I don't care about scratches.

I just used the cheapest 3 ton jack stands on Amazon. Apparently there are extra tall stands you can buy but they seem dangerous to me.

As for using a jack to lift it, be my guest! But there is almost no room to do so.

It was easy to wiggle it off the engine and upon the trans jack. No prob. But then to get it onto the concrete is hard because you have no leverage, so mine just fell off the side (after lowering the transmission jack) without getting too damaged. So I literally dropped the trans. In retrospect I would have tried moving it onto a jack and then the concrete. This was certainly the most dangerous part though since theoretically if someone wasn't looking where it was tipping off, they could drop it on themselves and get really hurt. So please be careful.

[B58 parts]

Got it thank you. I get it now. The hoist just needs to be lower profile is the issue. Otherwise I like this thing a lot, hope it holds up ok.

Tonight I put the jack stands up to max height, and for sure I will not be raising the car that high. It would have to be done in 2 or 3 steps, lowering would suck. It will probably be hard to get the trans back on at that height. I'd rather just go to a normal height and leave it underneath, clean it and change the parts underneath.

A new idea is to drop the trans, shove it back a little bit somewhere just sitting on the hoist. Then support engine, lower subframe, extract engine up and out. Then, slide trans hoist forward into engine bay and extract with engine hoist.

I think for just doing the clutch I'd keep it underneath. There's a way to do get it out though... I was thinking tie a rope to it and raise the passenger side middle a bit with the floor jack and safety yank it out from the side.

Sorry to hijack your thread like this. Maybe it will help someone else without a two post lift.

[Cytoplasm0671]

No problem whatsoever

[Cytoplasm0671]

Uniden R8 radar detector: ✅

My 340i came with few tech options. But one cool thing it did come with is a hardwired Uniden R3 radar detector. I had never owned a radar detector before buying this car, but once I learned the ins and outs of how it worked, I sort of fell in love with it. The R3 is inexpensive ($200 used on eBay) and Uniden is among the best brands out there. The R3 has done a fantastic job at detecting radar during my drives.

Just a quick note on radar detecting: it took me a while to get it dialed in perfectly to my local area. VortexRadar.com has excellent guides to get every Uniden model set up for the United States. I set mine up about a year ago when I purchased my 340i, and then spent the past year tweaking it until I almost never get false alarms, and actually never even am aware of the radar detector in the car at all, until a real threat is nearby, and then it'll sound the alarm.

My goal for owning a radar detector is for it to basically disappear from my consciousness. Basically, I'm very picky about my 340i cabin. I want almost every screen or display to be as minimal as possible, or off, so that I have as little stimulus as possible. This way I can maximize relaxation (or 100% focus on spirited driving). This is also why I probably won't be upgrading my analog dash to a digital one, nor switching out my 6.5" screen to the beautiful 10" screen that everybody else here is using. I'm glued to screens enough in my life! I feel the more I'm looking at screens (IE: the more I stimulate my dopamine receptors) the less attentive I am to my work, my family, or my connection with God. And thankfully the Uniden R3 has done an excellent job at disappearing into the background, until it's actually needed.

But, of course, my wandering eye notices that a number of newer more advanced models have come out from Uniden since the R3, so today I upgraded to essentially their top windshield model: the R8. The Uniden R8 has the same excellent quality and settings as the R3, but with a much expanded range and directionality, meaning the detector will tell me earlier if a radar is approaching, and will say the direction the threat is coming from (ahead, behind, etc).

After affixing the detector above the rearview mirror, I connected my laptop and updated its firmware. Then I set it up according to the suggested settings at Vortex Radar (listed at the bottom): https://www.vortexradar.com/2022/04/...ure-uniden-r8/

Looking good. Excited the see how this performs in the coming months.

[Cytoplasm0671]

VAC Motorsports upper and lower control arms: ✅

Been busy with work these past months and have been neglecting my ride. Thankfully had some time today, during what was probably the last warm day of the year, to switch out the OEM control arms for VAC Motorsports monoball versions.

The upgrade was supposed to take only 3 hours, but 4 hours in and I had not even finished the passenger side. The initial issue is that the main cable for the battery literally covers up the lower control arm bolt. This was not in any of the videos on Youtube. To move the wire and uncover the bolt requires delicately prying out two very brittle plastic fasteners. This allows the wires can be moved about an inch, leaving you with just a few millimeters (!) of space to extract the bolt head. But thankfully, it worked in the end.

Yet... I couldn't finish the job on my own. The main issue is achieving 175nm of torque as required on the wheel side of the control arm. This is a large amount of torque, and using very simple jacks and jackstands like my setup, the wheel keeps swinging to stop the torque from happening. I think I could have possibly completed the job by using the jackstand (upon which the car was braced) as leverage for my legs. But man, that didn't feel safe.

In the end I drove my partially torqued control armed wheels down to a local shop, had them put my car on the lift, and had them crank the wheel side to 175nm each.

In the end, the VACs are installed to spec and I'm happy . I will say that this upgrade seems to have given the car a relatively small improvement over stock. Certainly the slight mushy vagueness of the rubber bushing OEM control arms is gone, which is welcome. The VACs definitely feel more precise. But I will say that this is the first upgrade where I wasn't "wowed" at the result. Vibration and comfort (NVH) is basically the same, though. So that's cool.

[matteo]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

Edit: As a result of the conversation here, I have moved the car from Stage 2+ 93-octane to Stage 2 91-octane. While the Stage 2+ logs were keeping corrections under 6 degrees, which is not terrible, member Skyhigh recommended keeping them at 3 degrees or below, and Stage 2 91-octane is currently the only tune I can run that has that small of corrections. Hopefully I can move to Stage 2+ with corrections at 3 degrees or below via E30 and the flexfuel sensor.

Did you ever flash back to Stage 2+ after installing FlexFuel? How were the logs?

edit: great thread btw.

[Cytoplasm0671]

Car hit 50k on the odometer today. I clicked it into Sport mode right as it rolled over to celebrate:



Just want to take a moment to celebrate this amazing car. The 340i 6MT is truly one of the most enjoyable, most powerful, most versatile daily drivers ever made. I've driven these new self-driving battery-operated cars of the future. They're fun. But they're no match for the 340i. Taking that manual transmission, shifting it, and gassing the B58 in a tight turn is one of the best parts of my day. The exterior styling is much better than anything new. Every day when I leave my office and walk up to this vehicle I just shake my head with how beautiful it is.

I should mention that I fixed my trunk randomly opening throughout the day. Either the trunk would randomly open when I was walking around the car to gas it up (via the comfort access, which never properly works), or it would be randomly opened in my office parking lot when I would walk out to it (I assume via the remote button clicking throughout the day in my pocket). To fix: I fired up Bimmercode and reduced the seconds needed for remote button open by switching FEM_BODY (or FEM_01, I forget) --> RC_TIME_DELAY_BOOTLID 00 -> FF to 32 (8 seconds). So I now I have to hold down the remote button for 8 seconds for the trunk to open, which I rare use anyways. Also I disabled comfort trunk access completely with FEM_BODY (or FEM_01, I forget) --> CAM_SMART_OPENER = nicht_aktiv. Trunk problems solved!

I do still plan on some additional upgrades going forward, but honestly it feels like I have somewhat maxed out what I want from this vehicle (see pg 1 for current upgrades). So I assume this build journal may slow down. Ah well. If you're reading this, just know that this car is zipping around West Michigan, full of power and glory.

PS: I may track this car in 2024! We'll see!

Originally Posted by matteo

Did you ever flash back to Stage 2+ after installing FlexFuel? How were the logs?

edit: great thread btw.

Thanks! For the winter I flashed to MPPSK Stage 0+ because I am concerned the added pressure is rough on the engine in the frigid Michigan cold (I had a strange error code pop up). But in the summer I hope to renew my quest for Stage 2+. I have flashed it before, and the car truly roars with power. But the problem is, though my timings are quite low and manageable, I am still getting engine knock notifications in my logs. So the goal when the weather gets warmer and I put my summer tires back on is to get the tank at exactly E40 (seen via the flexfuel sensor), then flash the stock Bootmod3 E30 tune as recommended by others in this thread. The richer ethanol content can help to remove the knock. We'll see!

[Cytoplasm0671]

I've never talked about my winter tire setup, but they're on right now, so I thought it might be fun to do a February photoshoot and talk winter tire specs.

At the first snow, I jack up the car one side at a time, pull off my summer wheels, and put on my winters.

The winter rims are OEM style 195. I bought a set of them off eBay for $662, including shipping. Nice and cheap, and I think they look nice. Supposedly they came off an E90 335d. The winter tires are Michelin X-Ice Snow 225/45/18 with 12mm spacers in the front and 15mm spacers in the back. I specifically chose a skinnier 225 tire for the winter because its better for snow than my wide 245 summer tires.

Some photos. Cheers!