[HondaRC51]

I know there is some general mistrust in aluminum valve covers (and completely justified for $700+ for a piece of cast aluminum) and most people would say stick with OEM. While I agree sticking with OEM parts is the best option unless a proven aftermarket part is worth the extra $$$. I just found this and wondered what yall think. ~$300 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-...27565284m~brp/
I am in the process of plugging my cylinder head ports, gasket replacement, intake cleaning and figured since I have the VC off I'd be worth upgrading to something that could potentially not melt next to a big single(going ST in the near future so started doing preventative measures). I know the VTT has a cast aluminum one for ~$700 and a billet one for ~$1400 but who in their right mind would spend that on a valve cover. Wondered if anyone runs one of these and how they hold up respectively.

[Darth Gator]

I am considering the same valve cover for my 435i. Let me know what you think if you install it.

[AWD Addict]

BMW went with a poly valve cover to minimize heat soak over the block.

Stick with OE.

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

BMW went with a poly valve cover to minimize heat soak over the block.

Stick with OE.

and then they stuck a big insulated beauty cover on top which completely nullifies the heatsoak argument. it's more likely to minimize noise harmonics from things liek lifters and the high side rail/injectors, and that it was cheaper to manufacture so saved them money. this is evidenced as money saver in the fact they crack routinely, and the factory PCV leaks boost pressure ( which leads to pressurized crankcase, which leads to leaking gaskets from pressure pushing oil out. )

OE is not always the best.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Podunk

and then they stuck a big insulated beauty cover on top which completely nullifies the heatsoak argument. it's more likely to minimize noise harmonics from things liek lifters and the high side rail/injectors, and that it was cheaper to manufacture so saved them money. this is evidenced as money saver in the fact they crack routinely, and the factory PCV leaks boost pressure ( which leads to pressurized crankcase, which leads to leaking gaskets from pressure pushing oil out. )

OE is not always the best.

alu valve cover will act like a heatsink to a certain point.

honda and toyota best engine got minimal plastic parts... Most issues on bmw engines is plastic : pulleys, gasket leak, thermostat, cover, boots, hoses, wirings, charge pipe, etc etc
Even the pollen filter cover...

someone opened a thread about aliexpress aluminum cover, he never updated it.
still want to know if they are a suitable option

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

alu valve cover will act like a heatsink to a certain point.

honda and toyota best engine got minimal plastic parts... Most issues on bmw engines is plastic : pulleys, gasket leak, thermostat, cover, boots, hoses, wirings, charge pipe, etc etc
Even the pollen filter cover...

someone opened a thread about aliexpress aluminum cover, he never updated it.
still want to know if they are a suitable option

i'm actually waiting for ECS to get the bremmen cover in and ship it out to me at this time, with the VTT PCV upgrade, and a new flapper valve hose that goes to the turbo intake on the back side.

while aluminum does absorb heat, it also transfers it, and dissipates it, it may be hotter with the beauty cover on, but should be just as cool or cooler with it off IMO.

not to mention there is some argument to quicker failure for the VC gasket due to inconsistent heat expansion and contraction rates between the plastic VC and the aluminum cylinder head, having similar rate with an aluminum VC and Cylinder Head should also increase gasket life some.

[Podunk]

while i got it in, just need to convince the wife it needs it put on LOL. don't know how or why, bu the car ate a quart of oil randomly, which i attributed to the VC/ integrated pcv system, because of the fact i saw no oil coming from rear main, but oil was at the back of the engine ( figured it leaked down from air inlet pipe or leaking plastic as the rear inlet had oil in it when i pulled the burger filter off it).. but then again, may wait for the b58 coil conversion and plug replace and just do it all at once. i filled it up, and it hasn't done it since in the last 500+ miles.. so *shrug* made me check oil level religiously though on the dash..

[Podunk]

Originally Posted by Podunk

while i got it in, just need to convince the wife it needs it put on LOL. don't know how or why, bu the car ate a quart of oil randomly, which i attributed to the VC/ integrated pcv system, because of the fact i saw no oil coming from rear main, but oil was at the back of the engine ( figured it leaked down from air inlet pipe or leaking plastic as the rear inlet had oil in it when i pulled the burger filter off it).. but then again, may wait for the b58 coil conversion and plug replace and just do it all at once. i filled it up, and it hasn't done it since in the last 500+ miles.. so *shrug* made me check oil level religiously though on the dash..

Opened the box, the VC looks really nice.... on the outside. whoever bremmen is sourcing this from is liekly the same place as the 200 USD ebay covers.
also Assembled by ECS means they just put everything together in the box to ship it to you apparently, as the upgraded VTTO PCV was NOT installed already.


here is where it get's fun, i go to install the VTT PCV valve after removing the plastic PCV cap, i lube up the o ring and the pcv, as well as the hole in the VC.. ( when i do this i notice some casting flashing in the port, not enough to cause an issue or anything, if it stay put, but can be a massive issue if it breaks free, so i poked it with a flat blade just to make sure it was solid.. it was pretty reigid, but somehting to be aware of) so i go to stick in the VTT PCV an dnotice it is a lot more stiff putting it in, and wiggle it a bit, pretty sure i have it in, it looks straight, and seems to be abotu as tall as the PCV i took out.. i was wrong.

i go to put the cap back on, anbd tighten down, it is goign smoothly right up until it cocks at an angle with a "pop" noise at the same time.. back it out, the threads on the plastic cap are all goobered.. i take a closer look at the VTT PCV.. looks seated, but it makes no sense.. so i take a right angle pick and.. looks are deceiving, it is NOT seated, i can slide the pick under the PCV so i pull the PCV out.. it looks good try to install again using a socket just big enough and some hand pressure, and pick test.. nope, still won't install flush.. wiggle it back out again, grab the old PCV blow into it.. it leaks so bad they may as well have stuck in a piece of aluminum with a hole drilled straight through in there, total trash.. BUT it slides right in with a slight "pop" feeling and is sitting flush.. so i look at the PCV's... they have to be assembled somehow right? and the PCV i pulled out is aluminum, the vargas is some kind of CNC metal.. and i notice what looks like an alan key head.. so i go to take apart the Vargas PCV, the cap comes right off, wasn't even torqued.. go to remove the cap on the aluminum PCV that came with the cover.. it won't budge.. heat it up a bit.. comes right off, it had bleu threadlocker on it.. grab the Vargas PCV guts, and stick them into the other PCV, they fit, grab the Vargas cap, and see if it threads onto the other PCV it does, so i tighten it down and give it slight torque, and then check, yep it actually seals now.. slight leak like the original VTT had, but not bad, and more pressure you put on it the better it seals. with some oil on it, it would seal fully.

Stick the old PCV back into the Valve cover with the Vargas guts and Vargas cap.. fits, now has PCV that will work, but i now don't
have a plastic cap that will work.. i emailed ECS customer service my issue with the whole thing, and that i ultimately resolved the problem using the vargas guts and cap end but need the plastic PCV cap.. will see what happens.. seems Ebay has CNC aluminum ones for 16 USD.. may give one of those a try just to get rid of plastic cause hell that was the point to begin with...


SO things to be aware of with the bremmen Aluminum cover, the PCV it comes with is JUNK, get rid of it ASAP.
THe PCV bore in the ventilation chambers of the valve cover appears to be on the "very tight" side of the spectrum, if you get aftermarket it may not fit, recommend using a right angle pick to verify it seated fully. if it hasn't, you can try to swap the PCV valve guts and end cap, or you can get a dremel, and a wire brush just slightly larger then the PCV bore, and slowly hone it and then clean it up with a cotton disc and metal polish. ( had to do something similar on a chamber/throat on a rifle that kept having the brass getting stuck and causing ejector to rip off the rim) this may also impact aftermarket catch can PCV adapters you install to move the check valve elsewhere.

there is flashing inside the PCV high/lowside beneath the PCV bore, i recommend poking it to see if it will easily break off, or attempting to remove it.

other then that appears solid, the machien work for the seal and mating surfaces are smooth and decent.. the item was obviously cast then machined, so if you want better than cast, VTT or M18 billet would be your other options. if making a race car, use the Seems Legit Garage exhaust Venturi AN adapter for crankcase ventilation in conjunction with catch can. it will provide the best evacuation of crankcase pressure and vapors, and won't recycle it into your engine and lower the octane of whatever fuel you're running, DO NOT do this in emissions standards and testing states, you WILL FAIL if you evacuate to exhaust.