Twin disc issues

[Ca_m4mike]

glad you got it figured out man

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

So update on this. Tried the CDV delete and fixed the problem. Every gear is smooth. After a little while of local driving first and reverse get a little notchy again and start to creep but not much. The worst of it now is still smoother than the best days before getting rid of the valve. Also helped a lot with taking off and shifting through the gears. Gonna drive it some more and give it more time to wear a little but still may change the setup as its still pretty aggressive for the driving I do now. Now the only thing left to tackle is the knock/thumping noise when shifting quick but I honestly think I just need to upgrade the trans mounts because even just driving if I press in the clutch and release it quick I hear it.

Anyone in here with a twin upgraded trans mounts?

Glad you got it figured out man. I had the CDV delete done prior to all of my clutch woes, but it's good to know that certain issues can be mitigated by it. Did you do the fishing method or swap it with one of the E92 slaves?

Transmission mount wise, I have you covered. I upgraded to the Rogue mounts last year as I was having a lot of what I'd call transmission sway on quick bursts of acceleration, as well as well as during "spirited" turns; made it hard to catch second as it would shift around under load.

If you look at the stock mounts, they're absolutely pathetic for a vehicle of this caliber. The Rogue mounts made short work of the problem though, and as a bonus they didn't introduce any additional NVH.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

So update on this. Tried the CDV delete and fixed the problem. Every gear is smooth. After a little while of local driving first and reverse get a little notchy again and start to creep but not much. The worst of it now is still smoother than the best days before getting rid of the valve. Also helped a lot with taking off and shifting through the gears. Gonna drive it some more and give it more time to wear a little but still may change the setup as its still pretty aggressive for the driving I do now. Now the only thing left to tackle is the knock/thumping noise when shifting quick but I honestly think I just need to upgrade the trans mounts because even just driving if I press in the clutch and release it quick I hear it.

Anyone in here with a twin upgraded trans mounts?

But you BLED the system as part of the CDV removal??? If so then the problem was likely a bubble in there and not the CDV removal.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by MJ6

Glad you got it figured out man. I had the CDV delete done prior to all of my clutch woes, but it's good to know that certain issues can be mitigated by it. Did you do the fishing method or swap it with one of the E92 slaves?

Transmission mount wise, I have you covered. I upgraded to the Rogue mounts last year as I was having a lot of what I'd call transmission sway on quick bursts of acceleration, as well as well as during "spirited" turns; made it hard to catch second as it would shift around under load.

If you look at the stock mounts, they're absolutely pathetic for a vehicle of this caliber. The Rogue mounts made short work of the problem though, and as a bonus they didn't introduce any additional NVH.

Yeah thankfully it helped a lot. The delay delete made the car so much nicer to drive. And I just removed the washer and plate. I didnt even know swapping to the e92 slave would help. Im gonna give this setup some time to maybe wear in more and hopefully it should help. And just ordered the rogue mounts after you mentioned them. Hope that will get rid of my noise. Also just received my turner diff mount but got the red ecs bushings so I am going to try to swap them for the powerflex street as I want to keep as much comfort and drivability because I do enjoy the car when not beating on it as well lol

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

But you BLED the system as part of the CDV removal??? If so then the problem was likely a bubble in there and not the CDV removal.

I think the delay valve was the main culprit. I did try bleeding the slave when I first got the car back from the shop and it did not help. Although this time I also did try to reverse bleed it then regular bleed as well. So that may have helped. But I honestly think it was the CDV that was just too restricting for such an aggressive clutch.

[keuho12]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

Whats up guys. Have a bit of a dilemma so sorry for the long post.

So ill start way back to try to give as much info as possible to hopefully get pointed in the right direction because im having a few issues that I need resolved before I do damage to the transmission.

So when I first got the car at 28k miles I noticed every time the tires would break loose car would wheel hop and get a nasty knock in the back. Took it back to Bmw as it was still under warranty and they did the big diff bushing in the subframe and helped but issue didn't fully go away. Swapped out diff(for other reason) drive shaft and axle no more knock.

When tuning my car recently clutch started to slip bad(45k miles) fbo e85 f80 paul tune. Street tune so not sure of the numbers power wise. So swapped it out for a clutch masters FX850 with their aluminum flywheel etc. Never messed with a twin disc so sent it to a local performance shop that has good reviews. Clutch master sent the wrong throw out bearing with the first kit and broke my slave cylinder. Shop got the new bearing and replaced slave.

So when I got the car back from the shop I noticed from neutral and idle its very hard going into gears most of the time. 1st and Reverse especially. I took the vehicle back to the shop and guy said its normal for a twin disc. That they are just harder to go into gear. He said finish breaking it in and go back to him if the issue persisted.

Current issues---
Now that the clutch is fully broken in I finally got to actually beat on the car and shifting at higher rpms is a little tougher than before but works(not a fan). Cant shift as fast with this setup as I could before the stock one gave out but there is a loud knock when I shift quick. I believe it is the clutch because if I press in the clutch and let it out quick I hear the knock. Dont hear it at any other time. And still very hard going into first and reverse. Also when going into gear from neutral the car will actually creep forward or back as if the clutch is still engaged. But when I let off the pedal it has still has plenty of room before the car will start to go which is what im confused about. Anyone have any insight on these issues or setup? Thanks in advance

**Solved**
So after talking to clutch masters again, they said the CDV needed to be removed. After removing it and bleeding the system the car feels 1000 times better. Still slight notch after a lot of local driving but tolerable.

Hey, so after you replaced the diff, driveshaft and axle. Did all your wheel hop issue go away?
Are you able to spin the tires freely w the twin disc?

[torpeteo]

Originally Posted by MJ6

I've definitely had a fair share of experience with them, both an FX1000 and FX250.

As long as the system was bled properly, everything should be working as it was before. If it's not disengaging fully, short of there actually being something physically wrong via manufacturing defect, I'd be thinking along the lines of a hydraulics issue (master or slave not holding pressure) or a throwout bearing issue. The TOB's that are sent out have both "high" and "low" settings, and depending on how it's set on the clutch fork could absolutely impact engagement. From what I was informed by both CM and SPEC was that the TOB needs to be installed at the "high" setting, basically the setting that pushes the bearing closer to the clutch disk. I'd imaging at the lower setting (what with the increased clamp load) there might not be enough leverage to fully disengage.

This is the TOB at the "high" setting for reference.

I’m in the same boat as OP. We removed the CDV and bled the lines every which way. Going to drop the trans and check the orientation of the throwout bearing.

Curious on what throwout bearing you received with the CM kit, was it an OEM or some other? I havent physically seen the “HD” one they apparently send with the kits. Their customer service has been dismal to say the least..

[cliffordm4]

Originally Posted by torpeteo

I’m in the same boat as OP. We removed the CDV and bled the lines every which way. Going to drop the trans and check the orientation of the throwout bearing.

Curious on what throwout bearing you received with the CM kit, was it an OEM or some other? I havent physically seen the “HD” one they apparently send with the kits. Their customer service has been dismal to say the least..

I might be in the same boat. I don't have issues engaging gears from a stop, but when trying to get going from a stop, I get this back and forth judder.

Spec P-trim. I used the "low" setting on a brand new OEM TOB.

Any advice? Is it worth dropping the trans and switching to the "high" position on the "HD" TOB?

Already did a new slave and CDV delete. Improved pedal feel but it feels like there's a lot of pedal travel missing, so to speak.

Spec told me to install at whatever position the TOB came out. I suspect this might be incorrect.