[Captain Buumer]

I threw out the big subwoofer as it was drowning almost all other sounds - too powerful - and ended up with this:
10W3v3-4 in corner loaded custom box:


It's a nice balanced and really like it. Much better overall.
I'd say it's not as "slow" as the 15" one.

Using 150W rms alpine amp (4 ohm) and it's plenty of power.

I did some more tuning to all speakers (basically started from 0 since i wanted to experiment with some new knowledge) and now it's perfect. Super clean vocals and bass.

Best part is trunk is still fully usable.

Also: make sure the corner subwoofer is tightly bolted to the side and doesn't move & adding some mass to the box with deadening material.

This greatly improved its performance.

[Captain Buumer]

So my M-ASKII system video output died.

I could still listen to music and navigate around "blindly" but decided to get CIC since the fan also stopped working and some power circuit is dead (already tried to reflow the video card BGAs in electronics factory on the proper machine). But in order to figure out the bad component i would need to buy another M-ASKIi which are surprisingly expensive in eastern europe.
CCC is meh and since i found CIC whole set with everything for about 400$ decided to try the retrofit.
Fitting was quite easy, just need to remake the screen connector + buy the controller plastic.

Coding was sort of easy also.

This is what was done to the FA:
Removed #0307 - original build date.
Added #0909 this build date to allow modules to see CIC
Added $609 - cic equipped
removed $606 - means mask unit is now not installed
added $672 - means cd changer (i have dension connected to MOST network)
added $676 = cic hifi option (get low level output)

Then default code CIC and it automatically applies proper values according to car extras written in FA.
Then manually changed: PHONE_TYPE_C0B = mulf_sa644 (experimenting to get Dension phone connection to communicate with CIC as it did with M-ASKII setup).

For the Alpine 802 DSP changed input jumpers to accept low level (otherwise it's very quiet listening experience).

However what are my observations coming from M-ASKII to CIC (sound wise).
With M-ASKII it was possible to have speaker level output and sort of flat EQ.
This is not possible with CIC (options are either stereo or hifi).

CIC stereo option is rubbish - totally ruined the sound. Bass is extremely limited, vocals are ruined, highs are broken and midbass is gone.
CIC hifi output is alot better compared to M-ASK hifi output.
M-ASKII hifi output also emitted floor (static) noise that never disappeared and was always present no matter the gain settings. I read from everywhere that it is a gain issue or grounding issue but the M-ASKII is really old, possibly lacking filtering circuit and is never meant to provide high quality low level (RCA) signal.
There is no static noise from CIC Hifi output.

Dension 500S BT works with CIC - no problems. Have 128GB USB 3.0 attached to it with lots of songs.
It also allows to send music via bluetooth and forwards phone calls to CIC with phonebook support (it's basically a combox).
It works best when all your songs are in .WAV format.
I had strange crashes with some random .mp3 files.

Only navigation is not available - need to figure out how this scripting thing works.
When the day comes will add a backup camera to CIC. The emulator is about 50$ from ali.

[Graphism]

Hey, i followed your guide and installed everything the same way as you did (minus the subwoofer). Can you please drop your updated speaker tuning so i can follow it?
Also did your underseats took time to break in?

[Captain Buumer]

A nice addition to good audio setup is backup camera & Android Auto integration.

So i got the RoadTop MMI unit for e90 and show some images how to install it.
(decided to ditch the OEM navigation and the emulator route since first one is always outdated and emulator adds just problems).

It wasn't as easy as some say. Definitely not 2 hours. It took me about 3 days to install everything.
This includes microphone, backup camera, optimal location for the MMI unit, messing with the Quadlock connector, Putting the soft tape on most wires so they don't rattle, rerouting some OEM wires so everything fits proplery.

Most trouble is with the Quadlock connector.
I'll add image at some point but the trick is to push the quadlock connector to the far left corner behind the CIC rack. So it does not block CIC from going back to its slot.
It was very tight once everything went back to its place but there was barely enough room and it all fits.

i found that removing the CIC rack and cut off one plastic weird piece that prevents the quadlock from going to the corner.
The plastic piece serves no purpose and is sticking out from some air guiding tunnel.

I don't think its possible to do it any other way since there is literally no room anywhere.

I end up with the MMI unit to the right of CIC. There is a open space there and plenty of room.
Can't see it fit behind the climate panel. First it didn't fit there (gap is too narrow). Secondly all the wiring would block CIC from going back in nicely. I tried to keep area behind CIC free of any wires not meant to be there.
Had to disconnect optical fiber and reroute it and some other wires but in the end it all fits there quite nice.


Since i don't have MULF or any of those modules my armrest USB is free to use anything there.
3.5mm input (for mostly phone calls) and USB routed there for all the fancy features.
Here can see the USB extender i accidentally bought at some point. It served no purpose until this install.




3.5mm input i routed under the rubber mat (there is hole there) so no need to cut any plastic.
Also can see the wireless transmitter location.


The aftermarket backup camera wiring was confusing at first but i ended doing it like this:
There is RCA cable with included + wire at both ends.
There is also one power wire with + & -.

Power wire - i put into the taillights ground.
Power wire + i connected with the RCA cable +.
The CIC end of RCA cable + i connected to the yellow wire labeled as reversing camera.

And it works 100% every time with the wheel lines that track steering position.
Quality is quite good also. It's not crystal clear and this is because + wire runs right next to RCA = adds little bit of noise.
If you want crystal clear result i suggest run another cable that is not near the RCA & use higher quality RCA with better shielding.

I suggest avoid the cheapest backup camera units that are less than 30$.
Since they are not waterproof and will eventually die due to corrosion.

The one i purchased was about 70$ and it was much better built.
Looks like this:


Really nice piece of unit. Got the Waze & Phone calls which were nr1 things i missed + some other things i have not yet discovered.