SignatureWerks BBK User Experience?

[NORAGRETS]

Cant find anyone that is currently running the signaturewerks BBK package, wondering if anyone has used the kits or is currently running the kits, would love some feedback?

The price is legit...although the whole "refurbished" deal does make me worry a tiny bit.

https://signaturewerks.us/products/c...43378456920294

Full set up 6 pot up front and 4 pot in the back for $4000 seems too good to be true...praying I'm wrong but lets hear those who have used them

[MineralWhiteF80]

This seems to be a very sensitive subject on the forums, and one that personally annoys me to no end. I think I've read every "big brake" thread in the E36, E46, E9X, and F8X forums since 2004 and have a good opinion of the general forum consensus regarding big brake kits.

With that said, the consensus for the F8x chassis seems to be:

If you are considering any brake kit for track use other than an Essex AP Racing kit, HOW DARE YOU!!! Even if you utter another brand or inexpensive BBK option, you will be shunned from existence, and your wife and friends will leave you.

Do I think Essex AP Racing is the best? Probably, and there are a lot of arguments to make to support that. Does that mean all other BBK options are bad? No. They just might have some quirks that can make them annoying to own.

If I had to dissect the Signaturewerks BBK on parts alone, I'd have to say it "seems like a decent upgrade for an average track guy who does HPDE or general track-day driving that has outgrown the OEM brakes." ???

• The brake calipers in the kit are OEM GM parts for a production vehicle, so you'd assume using a new authentic Brembo caliper made for General Motors for their Camaro ZL1 1LE sports car has to be a good, safe option.
  
• The brake caliper brackets are made out of 7075 aluminum, which almost all aftermarket BBK adapter brackets are made out of. I've never seen Essex list their bracket material.
  
• Goodridge is a large brake line manufacturer widely used in the automotive world.
  
• The brake rotors: It is common knowledge now that the OEM BMW rotor is the weak link of the brake system. This is where the discussion really starts. Choosing a brake rotor that works effectively, is built well, has great support for replacement parts, and pairs well with a brake caliper/pad size as far as pad sweep goes is important. I have no opinion on the SignatureWerks rotor option nor the Paragon option, so I cant say good or bad for either.

Through forum threads, I've only seen a handful of track guys (all on the West Coast) actually run the SignatureWerks kit, and out of the few threads that exist, people who have them don't have any complaints. Almost all the people who have negative opinions have never owned them or have any experience with them at all.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

This seems to be a very sensitive subject on the forums, and one that personally annoys me to no end. I think I've read every "big brake" thread in the E36, E46, E9X, and F8X forums since 2004 and have a good opinion of the general forum consensus regarding big brake kits.

With that said, the consensus for the F8x chassis seems to be:

If you are considering any brake kit for track use other than an Essex AP Racing kit, HOW DARE YOU!!! Even if you utter another brand or inexpensive BBK option, you will be shunned from existence, and your wife and friends will leave you.

Do I think Essex AP Racing is the best? Probably, and there are a lot of arguments to make to support that. Does that mean all other BBK options are bad? No. They just might have some quirks that can make them annoying to own.

If I had to dissect the Signaturewerks BBK on parts alone, I'd have to say it "seems like a decent upgrade for an average track guy who does HPDE or general track-day driving that has outgrown the OEM brakes." ???
[LIST][*]The brake calipers in the kit are OEM GM parts for a production vehicle, so you'd assume using a new authentic Brembo caliper made for General Motors for their Camaro ZL1 1LE sports car has to be a good, safe option.
[*]The brake caliper brackets are made out of 7075 aluminum, which almost all aftermarket BBK adapter brackets are made out of. I've never seen Essex list their bracket material.
[*] Goodridge is a large brake line manufacturer widely used in the automotive world.
[*]The brake [...]

Yeah man I wish I had the budget for the AP kit, they’re dope and I love the nickel calipers, I want them bad lol.

I can’t justify the cost ($10k plus).

Thx for your insight, I hadn’t come across guys running sig works packages. Maybe we’ll get some one who owns them to chime in

[b_w.]

Keep an eye out for a used bbk. They pop up from time to time.

[M3SQRD]

MineralWhiteF80

The general concerns with retrofit kits are:
1. Use of stock rotors (this specific kit offers same diameter rotors but they’re 4 mm thicker) doesn’t address the issue of lack of thermal mass. The F8x Blue calipers are not limiting factor. So a kit that swaps calipers, 6P or 4P, but uses the same rotors is at best for aesthetics only. Also, just because a caliper has more pistons, doesn’t make it a better caliper. PFC only offers their race calipers with 4P front and rear until they were selected by Porsche as the official brake supplier for the 991 GT3 R. Porsche demanded a 6P front caliper.
2. Caliper, or a true brake system, bias calculations are rarely done and the calipers (actually, it should be with rotor diameter and pad radial depth) have either too much or too little piston area. You end up with a long brake pedal if caliper has too much piston area or a rock solid no travel brake pedal if the piston area is too small.
3. Availability of rotors. Are the rotors stocked so when you need a rotor replacement it can be ordered and received in a few days? If the rotors being used are from an unnamed source then you’re limited to (rely solely on) the vendor of the retrofit kit. They close up shop, you’re stuck with a kit without replacement rotors (Paragon rotors are good and they likely won’t be going out of business). Sparta was a brake caliper and rotor manufacturer that offered kits for the e9x M and f8x. Well, they went out of business so users had no options for caliper rebuilds, replacement rotors, and replacement pads. For new rotors they’d have to have custom rotors made by Coleman but it doesn’t solve the lack of brake pads (could use Carbotech to make custom pads is one option).
4. Availability of pads and brake compounds. A lot of the time the calipers used in retrofit kits use an obscure pad shape (with no FMSI profile #) and a very limited brake compounds. Does the vendor stock pads do when you need them, you can get them. Again, if they go out of business then you’re SOL (ZL1 1LE should have a decent number of pads and compounds available).
5. Proper pad and rotor ring swept area/pad radial depth. Too small of a pad radial depth means a significant portion of the rotor IR is not being fully utilized. The other concern is pad overhang on the rotor OR which results in a lip forming on the rotor OR. This means you’ll have to replace rotors every time you replace pads.
6. Caliper not centered on rotor can make it difficult to install new pads.
7. Caliper selected uses a thicker rotor. This can result in cases where, even with brand new pads, the caliper pistons are significantly extended out of the caliper. This can get pretty bad when the rotor thickness is too thin and the pad thickness also is too thin. This can affect brake pedal feel and/or create a safety issue if there’s significant caliper knock-back.
8. Is the caliper used in the retrofit have pad knock-back issues? If it is, are anti-knock-back springs available for the caliper? One of the worst feelings is when you’re entering a brake zone, you go to hit the brake pedal and you find it sitting on the floor! Double pumping a brake pedal is a straight section gets old fast.
9. Quality of rotors used in kits that come with aftermarket rotors. This is extremely important if you’re planning on tracking the retrofit kit. Failure of an inferior made rotor can result in a major accident or the rotors only last a couple/few days before needing to be replaced. Unless I missed it, they don’t say how many rotor vanes there are and are the rotor vanes straight or curved? Paragon rotors are superior to their custom 2-piece rotors.

These are all legitimate objective concerns/issues with the use of a generic retrofit brake kit. Yes, people will add in their subjective opinions on these retrofit kits. Some are based on an actual experience, some of it is speculation. If you’re fine with the objective concerns associated with retrofit brake kits, then go ahead and buy it. However, be aware that ZL1 1LE owners upgrade their brakes to high-end aftermarket brake kits. This kit offers the same diameter rotors (optional 10 mm larger diameter rear rotors - were brake bias calculations done with the larger rear rotor & piston area?) for the front and only a 4 mm thicker rotor (is it thicker rotor faces or is it taller vanes?) so what is the actual increase in thermal mass? I personally have upgraded to Essex/AP Racing CP9668/CP9449 kit on the f82 and on my e92 Ms PFC zr54/zr45 & ZR31/ZR31 kits. They pay for themselves if you frequently go to the track. Also, there’s a BimmerWorld/Alcon brake kit with similar performance and cost as the Essex/AP kit.

[RugbyBro]

No experience with sigwerks, but I'll offer another path:

Why not rebuild your stock ones with better seals and pistons? A lot of non-track peeps rag on stocks but aren't pushing anywhere close to the limit of that setup. Something as simple as cooling deflector plates have a noticeable impact on heat soak.

If you want a real performance upgrade, you gotta pay the price. See M3SQRD's post above.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

MineralWhiteF80

The general concerns with retrofit kits are:
1. Use of stock rotors (this specific kit offers same diameter rotors but they’re 4 mm thicker) doesn’t address the issue of lack of thermal mass. The F8x Blue calipers are not limiting factor. So a kit that swaps calipers, 6P or 4P, but uses the same rotors is at best for aesthetics only. Also, just because a caliper has more pistons, doesn’t make it a better caliper. PFC only offers their race calipers with 4P front and rear until they were selected by Porsche as the official brake supplier for the 991 GT3 R. Porsche demanded a 6P front caliper.
2. Caliper, or a true brake system, bias calculations are rarely done and the calipers (actually, it should be with rotor diameter and pad radial depth) have either too much or too little piston area. You end up with a long brake pedal if caliper has too much piston area or a rock solid no travel brake pedal if the piston area is too small.
3. Availability of rotors. Are the rotors stocked so when you need a rotor replacement it can be ordered and received in a few days? If the rotors being used are from an unnamed source then you’re limited to (rely solely on) the vendor of the retrofit kit. They close up shop, you’re stuck with a kit without replacement rotors (Paragon rotors are good and they likely won’t be going out of business). Sparta was a brake caliper and rotor manufacturer that offered kits for the e9x M and f8x. Well, they went out of business so users had no options for caliper rebuilds, replacement rotors, and [...]

That’s the other thing holding me back, I want a TRUE BBK. So I want 405mm rotors. That limits my options significantly. I think Brembo GTS and GT set ups offer the 405mm.

[M3SQRD]

The rebuild kit does help limit the caliper temperature and, therefore, the brake fluid temperature. The SS domed and tapered pistons minimize the heat transfer from the brake pads. Higher temperature external (blue) seals do a much better job of surviving temperature extremes from the pads/rotors. This rebuild kit combined with BW brake deflectors are an option that expands the operating window of the stock blue brakes. Paired with Girodisc or Paragon 2-piece rotors, these brake upgrades effectively raises the performance of the oem blue brake setup equal to the level of the SigWerke zl1 1le kit. Here’s the link to the RB rebuild kit:
https://racingbrake.com/bb-43bsp/

One question I have is: how can you call SigWerke’s kit a big brake kit when the rotors are the same diameter (optional rear 10 mm OD increase) as the stock rotors? It’s really just an aftermarket brake kit. Also, brake kits are marketed as having greater (shorter) braking performance which is not true. Tire’s are the primary parameter that determines braking distance, not the brake rotor and pad size. I’m unaware of any BMW that’s incapable of engaging abs during a stop. If you can’t engage abs or lock a wheel then you’re not using 100% of the braking capability.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

No experience with sigwerks, but I'll offer another path:

Why not rebuild your stock ones with better seals and pistons? A lot of non-track peeps rag on stocks but aren't pushing anywhere close to the limit of that setup. Something as simple as cooling deflector plates have a noticeable impact on heat soak.

If you want a real performance upgrade, you gotta pay the price. See M3SQRD's post above.

Yeah for sure that’s not a bad idea. I will say I switched to HP+ pads and they stop really well, my one complaint is the amount of brake dust they generate is crazy…wash the wheels and like 30 mins later they’re filthy again. Just waxed my wheels for the first time ever so hoping that’ll help w the dust issue.

Upgraded pistons to titanium or stainless would definitely make it more responsive for sure.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

The rebuild kit does help limit the caliper temperature and, therefore, the brake fluid temperature. The SS domed and tapered pistons minimize the heat transfer from the brake pads. Higher temperature external (blue) seals do a much better job of surviving temperature extremes from the pads/rotors. This rebuild kit combined with BW brake deflectors are an option that expands the operating window of the stock blue brakes. Paired with Girodisc or Paragon 2-piece rotors, these brake upgrades effectively raises the performance of the oem blue brake setup equal to the level of the SigWerke zl1 1le kit. Here’s the link to the RB rebuild kit:
https://racingbrake.com/bb-43bsp/

One question I have is: how can you call SigWerke’s kit a big brake kit when the rotors are the same diameter (optional rear 10 mm OD increase) as the stock rotors? It’s really just an aftermarket brake kit. Also, brake kits are marketed as having greater (shorter) braking performance which is not true. Tire’s are the primary parameter that determines braking distance, not the brake rotor and pad size. I’m unaware of any BMW that’s incapable of engaging abs during a stop. If you can’t engage abs then you’re not using 100% of the braking capability.

No you’re right, the marketing and the 6 pot over 4 pot kinda tricked me into thinking it was a BBK. It’s no different just with heavier calipers

[NORAGRETS]

I’m a big fan of 2 piece rotors for the reduced unsprung weight. These are pretty sweet imo but they’re same size as stock

https://www.motechperformanceshop.co...ting-disc-pads

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by NORAGRETS

That’s the other thing holding me back, I want a TRUE BBK. So I want 405mm rotors. That limits my options significantly. I think Brembo GTS and GT set ups offer the 405mm.

Don’t get hung up on rotor diameter. The Essex/AP Racing kit uses 372 mm front rotor OD yet with 72 curved cooling vanes and thick faces, can absorb and better manage the heat than a 405 mm rotor OD. There’s an ideal rotor size/mass for every car and anything larger/heavier than that is unnecessary parasitic unsprung mass that you have to continually accelerate, decelerate and corner with as well as hurting ride quality. The Essex/AP 372x34 mm rotor is enough for the f8x. The BW/Alcon uses a 380x36 mm rotor but only 48 cooling vanes.

Have you seen the Alcon street brake kit with F/R 400/380 diameter rotors and 6P F & 4P R calipers for ~$6800? Essex/AP also offers a street kit with F/R 380/380 mm rotors and 6P F & 4P R calipers but it’s more expensive than the Alcon street kit.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Alcon-RC...F8X-M3-M4.html

[jfritz27]

For sake of argument, let's say we're comparing the OEM calipers to this Signature kit. Both setups have:
- RB rebuild kit (available for the 1LE kit, but nearly $1000 to do so)
- Girodisc 380mm 2-pc rotor
- Same pad compound

Given the larger surface area of the Signature kit's pad, would it not provide more stopping power?

EDIT: Another consideration for some folks (like me) is having dust boots/seals, allowing for 4-season driving

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

For sake of argument, let's say we're comparing the OEM calipers to this Signature kit. Both setups have:
- RB rebuild kit (available for the 1LE kit, but nearly $1000 to do so)
- Girodisc 380mm 2-pc rotor
- Same pad compound

Given the larger surface area of the Signature kit's pad, would it not provide more stopping power?

EDIT: Another consideration for some folks (like me) is having dust boots/seals, allowing for 4-season driving

Do you know the piston sizes of the 1LE brake kit? RacingBrake’s website may have the piston sizes if they offer a caliper rebuild kit.

Brake torque is

Tb = 2 x mu x R x p x Ap

mu = pad coefficient of friction

R = pad radius = Rr - (1/2) x pad radial depth (PRD, some people use 1/3 x pad radial depth to account for the pad having more material above the mean radius)
Rr = rotor OR = 380/2 = 190 mm = 7.48”

p = line pressure = leg force x MC SF / Amc
Leg force = force applied to brake pedal (assume 60 lbf)
MC SF = leg force scale factor (typically 6:1 or 6.6667:1)
Amc = area of master cylinder (assume 1” dia)
So p = 60 x 6.6667 / (pi / 4 x 1.0^2) = 509 lbf/in^2

Ap = area of caliper pistons on one side of caliper only

Tb = 2 x mu x (Rr - 1/2 x PRD) x 509 * Ap = 509 x mu x (Rr - 1/2 x PRD) x Ap

Assume pad CoF is 0.60
Tb = 509 x 0.60 x (7.48 - 1/2 x PRD) x Ap = 305.4 x (7.48 - 1/2 x PRD) x Ap
Tb = (2284.392 - 152.7 x PRD) x Ap

All we need is piston area and PRD.

So we just need rotor OR, PRD and Ap for oem blue 4p & 1LE 6p calipers to calculate brake torque.

For the stock blue caliper, the PRD is 70 mm = 2.756” and Ap = 3.897 in^2 (2x 1.575”)

For oem blue 4p calipers:
Tb_blue= (2284.392 - 152.7 x 2.756) x 3.897 = 7265.48 lbf-in

We can calculate Tb_1le if we get the PRD and piston diameters.
Edit: zl1 1le piston diameters and PRD were found. The stock 1le pad has approximately an 80 mm PRD so not sure how the 6p front caliper can be used with a rotor that accommodates a pad with a PRD of 70 mm? For now, I’ll assume there’s a pad with a 70 mm PRD.

Tb_1le = 7946 lbf-in - 9.4% larger piston area!
This means the 1le caliper area is 4.261 in^2 vs. 3.897 in^2 for blue front 4p caliper (same %diff because same sized rotors and PRD).

I did the calculations for the rear calipers as well as brake bias calculations for both setups.

Blue R brakes:
Piston diameter = 44 mm = 1.732”
Rr = 370 mm = 14.566”
PRD = 63 mm = 2.48”

1LE R brakes (assumed R rotor PRD are BMW oem):
Piston diameters = 1.260” & 1.102”
Rr = 370 mm = 14.566”
PRD = 63 mm = 2.48”

Rear caliper piston areas:
Ap_br = 2.356 in^2
Ap_1ler = 2.201 in^2
The 1le piston area is 6.6% smaller than the oem blue rear caliper!

Rear Torque:
Tb_1ler = 4064 lbf-in
Tb_br = 4351 lbf-in
The 1le brake torque is 6.6% lower than the oem blue rear brake torque (expected because same rotor diameter and PRD were used for both).

So the use of the 1LE 6p and 4p calipers on the oem rotors results in a Front-Rear brake bias of 66.4% vs. the stock blue brake bias of 62.8%. The 1LE setup shifts the brake bias 3.8% forward. A 3.8% shift is noticeable. Not sure what the effect on the brake pedal will be. Front by itself would result in a longer, softer pedal compared to stock. The rear is the opposite, you’d get a shorter, stiffer pedal. Front area delta is larger and needs more fluid flow so a pedal that’s a little longer and softer. Pads with different CoF can be used to move the bias more rearward.
End Edit

However, we can answer the question: does a larger pad length (circumferential length) increase braking torque capability? The equation above for brake torque is not a function of pad length. Only pad radial depth (changes the radius of where the integrated pad frictional force is applied) and caliper area (changes the magnitude of the caliper normal force applied to the pad). Frictional force is not a function of applied area, only the normal force applied to the pad, because at a microscopic level you have a series of small peaks and valleys (surface roughness) in contact. Contact pressure is equal to a force divided by contact area. An object with a small surface area will have a higher contact pressure/stress and, therefore, more peaks and valleys are dug deeper into one another whereas an object with a large surface area and the same force applied, has a lower contact pressure/stress and, therefore, fewer peaks and valleys are engaged and the depth of engagement is lower. So the increase in friction generating area is offset exactly by the decrease in contact pressure - resultant frictional force is a function of the CoF between the two materials in contact and the compressive force holding the parts in contact.

[M3SQRD]

I found the piston sizes for the ZL1 1LE:
Front: 30 mm, 34 mm, 38 mm
Rear: 28 mm, 32 mm

PRD Front (Hawk HB843): 80 mm
PRD Rear (Hawk HB194): 51 mm

I had to estimate the HB843 PRD from a pad profile drawing. The stock 380 mm rotor uses a 70 mm PRD so, unless there are multiple pad profiles available for the zl1 1le front 6p caliper, I can’t see how you get the 80 mm PRD on a rotor that uses a 70 mm PRD? I even scaled conservatively (shorter) so there’s no way I’m off by 10 mm. I’ll look at it again and see what I come up with.

[NORAGRETS]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Don’t get hung up on rotor diameter. The Essex/AP Racing kit uses 372 mm front rotor OD yet with 72 curved cooling vanes and thick faces, can absorb and better manage the heat than a 405 mm rotor OD. There’s an ideal rotor size/mass for every car and anything larger/heavier than that is unnecessary parasitic unsprung mass that you have to continually accelerate, decelerate and corner with as well as hurting ride quality. The Essex/AP 372x34 mm rotor is enough for the f8x. The BW/Alcon uses a 380x36 mm rotor but only 48 cooling vanes.

Have you seen the Alcon street brake kit with F/R 400/380 diameter rotors and 6P F & 4P R calipers for ~$6800? Essex/AP also offers a street kit with F/R 380/380 mm rotors and 6P F & 4P R calipers but it’s more expensive than the Alcon street kit.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Alcon-RC...F8X-M3-M4.html

Yeah I’ve been eyeing the Alcon kits for a while, have an alert set up for eBay if a used one comes up. That’s my 2nd choice behind AP

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by NORAGRETS

Yeah I’ve been eyeing the Alcon kits for a while, have an alert set up for eBay if a used one comes up. That’s my 2nd choice behind AP

Have you looked at the Paragon brake kit and Alcon brake kit they sell? Their kit is 6P 378 mm rotor and 4p 380 mm (not a typo, rear is 2 mm larger in diameter). Their piston designs are very similar to the AP Racing calipers from 2000-2014. It’s around $6k for front and rear. I believe the front and rear pad profiles are common so finding pads in different compounds shouldn’t be difficult.

https://paragonbrakes.com/track-perf...f82-f83-front/

https://paragonbrakes.com/track-perf...-f82-f83-rear/

They also offer an Alcon 6p 380 mm front and 4p 380 mm rear. The front and rear kits together are a little over $6k. I believe common pad profiles are used in the front and rear calipers.

https://paragonbrakes.com/paragon-al...80-m4-f82-f83/

https://paragonbrakes.com/paragon-al...80-m4-f82-f83/

[jfritz27]

Holy math Batman! As always, thanks for a solid physics-based explanation.

I only got 380 from just the top-line spec of the rotor, so I'm sure you're correct with the numbers you're using in your calculations.

6Spd_M If I'm remembering correctly, aren't you running a Paragon brake setup? (I may be confusing you with someone else...)

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jfritz27

Holy math Batman! As always, thanks for a solid physics-based explanation.

I only got 380 from just the top-line spec of the rotor, so I'm sure you're correct with the numbers you're using in your calculations.

6Spd_M If I'm remembering correctly, aren't you running a Paragon brake setup? (I may be confusing you with someone else...)

What numbers are we talking about? Top-line spec of which rotor? Is this front or rear? I didn’t run the numbers yet with the larger 380 mm rear rotors but I wanted to calculate the stock blue F & R rotors setup. I could be using an incorrect value(s).

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

What numbers are we talking about? Top-line spec of which rotor? Is this front or rear? I didn’t run the numbers yet with the larger 380 mm rear rotors but I wanted to calculate the stock blue F & R rotors setup. I could be using an incorrect value(s).

Sorry -- I think I was thinking that you were questioning the 380mm Girodisc rotor spec in my initial example, but in reading more you were referring to a PRD value

[jfritz27]

... and would this be an accurate way of re-stating the results of your calculations:

The 1LE kit results in a net 2.8% increase in total braking torque (based on your input variables) across both axles (a decent increase in front, but partially offset by a decrease in rear), and does so with the % forward-bias shift as calculated?

[MineralWhiteF80]

glad this thread is taking off!

Before we continue getting completely lost in the weeds of the performance details and math equations, I think NORAGRETS needs to explain why he needs a big brake kit, because this completely changes the conversation. As he says:

Originally Posted by NORAGRETS

I want a TRUE BBK. So I want 405mm rotors.

A true big brake kit is NOT having the largest rotor possible. A big brake kit that looks super cool at car shows has 405mm rotors to impress people who don't know anything about cars. And not to mention... a huge 405mm rotor and massive caliper is adding significant unsprung weight to car and is actually slowing the car down without pressing the brake pedal. The best "big brake kit" does not care about how it looks or how big it is, and only cares about how it performs long term. 405mm rotors likely means 19" wheels are needed, and no hardcore track junky that will actually need an AP racing 12,000 dollar BBK is trying to run 19"+ wheels on the race track.

If someone is doing 25+ track days a year with a very serious attitude of chasing track records then the need for a proper AP Racing BBK is substantially different than the guy who wants to do a handful of track days a year at a novice to intermediate group pace, that wants to look cool on the street and at car shows, and that likely wont be exploiting a BBK for its intended purpose. This is where the SignatureWerks kit and some other options have a place in the market.