[Stellarxz]

What’s up yall,

So a couple days ago I turned my car on and saw a beautiful check engine light. Opened up the hood and saw a lot of coolant in the coolant tank and couldn’t hear the pump running, so assumed the pump finally went, it’s a 2013 335 with 130k miles and original pump. Checked for codes and saw the following:

- DME active codes -
120208 - Charging pressure control, plausibility
Pressure too high.
120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.
1A2108 - Electric fan, self-diagnosis, interval stage 1:
Minor fan fault.
CD9010 - LIN, message; electric coolant pump: Missing.

- Transmission active codes -
421722 - DME/DDE interface: Forced upshift due to thermal engine protection request or signal invalid (switch status, warm-up, powertrain, 0x3FB).

So i dropped the car off at a shop near where i am right now and the guy was saying something abt him getting a code that the pump “shorted”, and gave me a quote for $1650 to replace the pump, thermostat, and sum wiring harness thing, all OEM from bmw, and 200 of that is for diagnosis.

So tldr, How do-able is this on my own with it being an xdrive and all, most i’ve done in the past is replacing the valve cover on this car so how difficult is it if i bought the parts from FCP and did it on my own? Also is the quote this guy giving me realistic or should i try to find someone else to work on it? Im located in mass so any suggestions are appreciated!

[thejeremyman9]

I think the water pump is less tricky than valve cover, but may depend on your ability to lifting the car up easily/reliably for access. Watch some water pump videos and you'll get a good sense vs. valve cover difficulty.

[Stellarxz]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I think the water pump is less tricky than valve cover, but may depend on your ability to lifting the car up easily/reliably for access. Watch some water pump videos and you'll get a good sense vs. valve cover difficulty.

I can get the car up on jack stands idk if that’s good enough but i haven’t been able to find any videos on an xdrive, i’ve heard it’s a lot harder? Also any videos u would recommend?

[n55david]

Originally Posted by Stellarxz

I can get the car up on jack stands idk if that’s good enough but i haven’t been able to find any videos on an xdrive, i’ve heard it’s a lot harder? Also any videos u would recommend?

It's not a huge deal tbh

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Stellarxz

I can get the car up on jack stands idk if that’s good enough but i haven’t been able to find any videos on an xdrive, i’ve heard it’s a lot harder? Also any videos u would recommend?

i thought kies had one, just search youtube.

[Stellarxz]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

i thought kies had one, just search youtube.

Originally Posted by n55david

It's not a huge deal tbh

Couldn’t find anything from kies, but ur saying it’s not any different from a non xdrive, and it’s do-able on jack stands? In that case i might go ahead with it, should i go with an OEM pump and t-stat or is the
pierburg OE one fine?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Stellarxz

Couldn’t find anything from kies, but ur saying it’s not any different from a non xdrive, and it’s do-able on jack stands? In that case i might go ahead with it, should i go with an OEM pump and t-stat or is the
pierburg OE one fine?

I dont have an xdrive so can't comment on that, and no experience with pierburg

[Stellarxz]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I dont have an xdrive so can't comment on that, and no experience with pierburg

What abt the mechanic saying something abt it being shorted? He says he got a code that something shorted so that even if i replace the pump it will not work cuz it’s gunna short out again?

[celsdogg]

Originally Posted by Stellarxz

What abt the mechanic saying something abt it being shorted? He says he got a code that something shorted so that even if i replace the pump it will not work cuz it’s gunna short out again?

Seems like that is the way they fail (water pump starts at 11:06):

[Stellarxz]

Originally Posted by celsdogg

Seems like that is the way they fail (water pump starts at 11:06):

https://youtu.be/rPUUNhjJjHU?si=WMIIV8QRoZJOSb0X&t=667

So when my guys getting a error that something shorted it basically means that the control module inside the pump probably shorted but the wiring for it should be fine?

[WajahatM]

Honestly man I did the valve cover+gasket which is pretty straight forward. Literally just moving some wires out of the way, remove fuel rail, and the strut tower brace. Then hella bolts for the valve cover. The hardest 1-2 bolts to access are passenger side in the back. You have to be creative with extensions and swivel attatchments. I think I used 6”+swivel+3”+swivel+1”. I also used an extendible mirror with a light to get a better visual on the bolt which helped a lot. Tbh the part that made it hard/annoying was when I was done and torquing down the bolts and I got to the last one, the head snapped. It’s bc I reused all the old ones. I had to take everything back off, then was able to get out the broken bolt with pliers, no drilling needed. Scary af tho. Just hand tightened them after. Gotta be careful with aluminum bolts bc when they’re torqued once, they stretch bc they’re soft and are prone to breaking easily.

For water pump honestly the clearance is kinda hard. My car has been running on the warmer side and I was going to preemptively change the water pump. I ordered it from FCP euro, lifted the car, then realized it’s gonna be a pain to reach one of the bolts. Would be much easier if I dropped the subframe. So I just returned the part tbh. I plan to change my oil pan with gasket to a baffled one and I’ll do water pump then. Thermostat is pretty easy tho.