[gbalthrop]

Attached is ISTA Procedure for removing Instrument Cluster (KOMBI), in this case, to access Connector X11175.
George

[VehementCrom]

Hey George. Its been a while, I moved. I pulled the cluster out and looked at the pins today, they all looked nice and clean. I did the same with the other connector on the front of the JBE thing. Ill attach some photos.

I'm not very knowledgeable with wiring diagrams/troubleshooting.

Should I get a voltmeter and try to test for voltages?

Please let me know what to check next, thanks.

[VehementCrom]

Ok guys. I need help here. I did some thinking. I looked at my Carly codes. I’m basically only throwing one code now and it’s for “Dynamic Management.” It says “faulty, receiver LDM, transmitter KOMBI.

LDM is I believe Longitudinal Dynamics Management, which is cruise control?

My cruise control works, unless I hit the DTC button.

I’m wondering if I’m having an issue with the yaw sensor. It’s at the bottom of the car under the ds seat, so maybe water got in through my leaky garage roof/sunroof.

Might be the wheel speed sensor rubbing?

Lmk if that sounds promising.

[VehementCrom]

Ok, I cleared my error memory and Carly is only throwing a 002C9F.

DME: Oxygen sensor heater 2 after catalytic converter: Activation.

I think this is related to the DME giving ground to the 02 heater?

I installed a header so maybe the 02 wiring got damaged somehow?

I'm going to try to check the voltages on it, I need to buy a cheap voltmeter.

I can see the stats for the lambda probes in INPA, but I don't really know what I'm looking for honestly.

If anyone is familiar with this please chime in, I really want to figure this out.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

Ok, I cleared my error memory and Carly is only throwing a 002C9F.

DME: Oxygen sensor heater 2 after catalytic converter: Activation.

I think this is related to the DME giving ground to the 02 heater?

I installed a header so maybe the 02 wiring got damaged somehow?

I'm going to try to check the voltages on it, I need to buy a cheap voltmeter.

I can see the stats for the lambda probes in INPA, but I don't really know what I'm looking for honestly.

If anyone is familiar with this please chime in, I really want to figure this out.

That code is for the 02 sensor thats on your downpipe. Either the connection is bad or the sensor itself is bad. An activation fault code usually means its not reading. I know this from personal experience.

[VehementCrom]

Originally Posted by MakoB96

That code is for the 02 sensor thats on your downpipe. Either the connection is bad or the sensor itself is bad. An activation fault code usually means its not reading. I know this from personal experience.

I’m just gonna buy a new O2, and throw it in, and I can tell that our forum buddy George would approve of that based on his fastidiousness. Joking.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

I’m just gonna buy a new O2, and throw it in, and I can tell that our forum buddy George would approve of that based on his fastidiousness. Joking.

Yeah keep us updated, its a B**** to get to and you might have to pry it out..

[VehementCrom]

I'm just frustrated. I miss the old forum days when people were around.

I noticed that my DS rear wheel speed sensor, that the inside face got damaged a little by rust, or something. The other side had some damage on the bottom. I tried the washer trick and cleaning up the hubs a little. I started the car, and opened INPA, and I can see all 4 wheel speed sensors reading the same. When I roll the car forward and back anyways, I haven't tested them while driving yet. I think I'm going to clear the modules, clean up the rear hubs as best I can, and replace them.

I'm also going to take the O2 sensor out and inspect the wiring harness on that plug.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

I'm just frustrated. I miss the old forum days when people were around.

I noticed that my DS rear wheel speed sensor, that the inside face got damaged a little by rust, or something. The other side had some damage on the bottom. I tried the washer trick and cleaning up the hubs a little. I started the car, and opened INPA, and I can see all 4 wheel speed sensors reading the same. When I roll the car forward and back anyways, I haven't tested them while driving yet. I think I'm going to clear the modules, clean up the rear hubs as best I can, and replace them.

I'm also going to take the O2 sensor out and inspect the wiring harness on that plug.

Yeah, it seems everyones moved on.. JB4 guys went their separate ways which was like half the community at the time lol.
That being said, in regards to your wheel speed sensors, "if it aint broke dont fix it", unless you want to for your own peace of mind which is understandable. Getting that 02 sensor changed out is definitely more beneficial otherwise you'll start to lean out and possibly grenade your engine.

[VehementCrom]

Hey guys. Been a while.

I put a 3.64 rear end in the car and got it running again.

I also replaced the 02 sensors and looked at the wiring.

I’m still getting the ABS/DSC/BRAKE light errors/ cluster resets(turns off completely aside from RPM). CC works. Traction control works. The car drives fine and it happens when:

A:Key on vehicle not started.
B.Vehicle running at a stop.

I’m not exactly sure what to check next, or how to check.

Here are the codes after the battery disconnect and replacing all 4 O2 sensors.

[VehementCrom]

The 00A118 or 00A0B5 is a wheel speed error I believe, but I’m unsure if it’s for a specific wheel.

[VehementCrom]

Current codes

Replaced the rear wheel speed sensors since they had some damage. No change.

[VehementCrom]

New codes. I’m not sure what they mean though. E444/E447 from the previous post are from me putting sport seats in the car, I think maybe I need the white box from under the original seats?

[VehementCrom]

Anyone? BMW codes from inpa? If it says they are stored but not current will they go away when cleared?

[VehementCrom]

I cleared all the codes in INPA.

Except for one.

The car won’t let my clear the LDM 00D030 code.

I’m going to check fuse 22 which I think is for that.

Any ideas why I can’t clear the one code?

I got 20$ PayPal to whoever steers me into a solution.

I’ve owned this beautiful 330i for 5 years but she’s been off the road for 3 years now.

[VehementCrom]

The fuse was fine. That code along with the auc sensor code keep coming back but the rest have been gone for now. Still having the same issues.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

... I’m still getting the ABS/DSC/BRAKE light errors/ cluster resets(turns off completely aside from RPM). CC works. Traction control works. The car drives fine and it [WHAT] happens when:
A:Key on vehicle not started.
B.Vehicle running at a stop...

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

I cleared all the codes in INPA... The car won’t let my clear the LDM 00D030 code. I’m going to check fuse 22 which I think is for that. Any ideas why I can’t clear the one code? [Uhh, Probably 'cuz you haven't FIXED the Message Fault where LDM is NOT receiving message from KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) That "D030" Fault Code does NOT indicate a fault in LDM, that's working FINE. Code indicates a "Message" Fault in Bus line between KOMBI & LDM, or in KOMBI itself]...

Originally Posted by VehementCrom

The fuse was fine. That code along with the auc sensor code keep coming back but the rest have been gone for now. Still having the same issues.

Please RE-State or confirm what "Issues" you are currently having. This thread is titled: "Cranks/no start/ ABS...";
1) I presume the engine now fires & runs when cranked, and you no longer have any CAS issues?
2) What Warning Lights appear on Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC? BRAKE (RED)? Other?
3) KOMBI/ Instrument Cluster sometimes turns OFF (goes blank) except for Tach?
4) When Cluster goes blank it is always when engine is either (a) OFF; or (b) at idle RPM?
5) Cluster NEVER goes blank when driving at > 2,000 RPM?
6) If, while vehicle stationary/ in Park, you increase RPM to 2,000 RPM, does cluster "turn on"/ function properly?

If answers to the KOMBI questions 3 - 6 are YES, then you likely have a corroded Bus Connector, or a Loose Socket, Damaged Pin, or wiring damage in/at one of the K-CAN Bus Connectors: (a) at the rear of the KOMBI, or (b) where KOMBI connects to JBE.

I attach ISTA ScreenPrints of KOMBI Wiring & Connector View for those two connectors to NEXT Post.

Easiest Steps FIRST:

1) Remove Fuse F58 (5A), test electrically (0 Ohms resistance between fuse spades), and inspect fuse spades & Sockets for corrosion. If that restores KOMBI function with Ignition ON (Engine OFF), then you're DONE. If NOT so lucky, continue below.

2) Remove Cluster per Procedure attached to NEXT Post;

3) Test for Battery Voltage at X11175/9 Red wire;

4) Test for continuity to Chassis Ground at X11175/18 Brown/Black wire, with IGNITION ON.

5) Visual Inspection of the Wiring, Sockets & Pins at KOMBI connector X11175/6, Orange/Green Bus wire, & X11175/7, Green Bus wire. Clean pins & Sockets with Electronic Contact Cleaner, reassemble & test function of KOMBI, Ignition ON, Engine OFF.

6) If still NO JOY, remove Black Connector X14272 from JBE beneath Glovebox, & conduct SAME inspection & cleaning of X14272/29, Orange/Green wire, & X14272/31, Green wire.

Please let us know what you find, or if any questions.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints for 2005 330i as discussed in Prior Post.
George

[VehementCrom]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Please RE-State or confirm what "Issues" you are currently having. This thread is titled: "Cranks/no start/ ABS...";
1) I presume the engine now fires & runs when cranked, and you no longer have any CAS issues?
2) What Warning Lights appear on Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC? BRAKE (RED)? Other?
3) KOMBI/ Instrument Cluster sometimes turns OFF (goes blank) except for Tach?
4) When Cluster goes blank it is always when engine is either (a) OFF; or (b) at idle RPM?
5) Cluster NEVER goes blank when driving at > 2,000 RPM?
6) If, while vehicle stationary/ in Park, you increase RPM to 2,000 RPM, does cluster "turn on"/ function properly?

If answers to the KOMBI questions 3 - 6 are YES, then you likely have a corroded Bus Connector, or a Loose Socket, Damaged Pin, or wiring damage in/at one of the K-CAN Bus Connectors: (a) at the rear of the KOMBI, or (b) where KOMBI connects to JBE.

I attach ISTA ScreenPrints of KOMBI Wiring & Connector View for those two connectors to NEXT Post.

Easiest Steps FIRST:

1) Remove Fuse F58 (5A), test electrically (0 Ohms resistance between fuse spades), and inspect fuse spades & Sockets for corrosion. If that restores KOMBI function with Ignition ON (Engine OFF), then you're DONE. If NOT so lucky, continue below.

2) Remove Cluster per Procedure attached to NEXT Post;

3) Test for Battery Voltage at X11175/9 Red wire;

4) Test for continuity to Chassis Ground at X11175/18 Brown/Black wire, with IGNITION ON.

5) Visual Inspection of the Wiring, Sockets & Pins at KOMBI connector X11175/6, Orange/Green Bus wire, & [...]

The what is the lights.

It’s the brake light, DTC light, ABS Light, and the traction control light. They all come on yellow.

They flash on, and then the cluster dies immediately for a second. I thought the rpm was staying on, but it’s also turning off. Everything blacks out for a second.

This happens with the key in, ignition on.
It will happen before I start the engine.

It also happens after I start it.

As soon as you start moving it stops. It never happens when driving.


You can rev the car up over 2k and it just runs as normal. I haven’t been able to find a trigger for the lights.

The light errors will keep happening on an interval, and the cluster dies the same way every time.

Weirdly, if I disconnect the battery or reset the codes, the lights don’t come on for a bit, but they always come back eventually.


The car drives like it should otherwise.

[gbalthrop]

Try the 6 tests suggested, & let us know what you find,
George