[rah4539]

Hello:
Have 2011 E93 w/ BMW AGM Battery.
Saw the Yellow Battery Voltage Low light come on. I suspect it's the battery. I want to drive the car to my dealer (80 miles away) to replace. I am charging the battery now.
After the charge can I start-drive car to the dealer? Will not turn off nor run any options while driving.
THANK YOU
Rich

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by rah4539

... 2011 E93 w/ BMW AGM Battery. Saw the Yellow Battery Voltage Low light come on... I want to drive the car to my dealer (80 miles away) to replace. I am charging the battery now. After the charge can I start-drive car to the dealer?

Hi Rich, Welcome to the Forum!
The real questions here are:
1) WHY did the Low Battery Voltage warning appear? Was engine running?
2) WHEN did warning appear? Were you listening to Radio after engine off?
3) WHY take car to DEALER 80 miles away? That's ~ 3 hours(+) driving time (round trip), PLUS time waiting for battery replacement.

I understand that your E93 battery is MUCH more difficult to access than my E91 (Wagon) battery, but Walmart would probably do the replacement. Have you visually checked your battery to see TYPE (AGM vs. Conventional FLA), and Size (H8 fills entire Length of Battery Well. Your nearest Walmart has H8 AGM for $180, and FLA for $160. They would probably change it for less than $50, perhaps FREE:
https://www.walmart.com/search?q=H8+AGM

FIRST thing to do:
Measure System Voltage with Engine running, to make sure Alternator is charging. Even a GOOD Battery, fully-charged, will only operate the vehicle for ~ 30 minutes if Alternator is NOT charging -- your engine will die in ~ 30 miles of driving. Use Multimeter connected to Jumpstart Terminals under Hood with engine running, to determine System Voltage > 14.0V. If Alternator is charging, then the engine & accessories will continue to run, regardless of battery status. Battery Voltage ONLY needed to crank Starter.

Multimeter if you don't have one: $7 HFT, $9 Amazon:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digit...s%2C157&sr=8-5

You can also view System Voltage on the Instrument Cluster display, by activating "Hidden Menu 9.00" per this link:
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

BMW does NOT make batteries. They simply charge twice what Walmart charges for installed H8 AGM, and their battery just has BMW Logo/Labels on it. If you need installation or connection information, please advise.

"Battery Registration" is discussed (often erroneously) in MANY Forum Posts. Generally, there is NO NEED to (1) "Register" the new battery in the "Power Module", (2) Reset the "Histogram" (history of battery State of Charge & Temperature), or (3) Change Type/Capacity setting of battery in CAS module, IF you replace factory battery with SAME type (AGM vs. FLA) and Capacity (Amp-hours). Generally, H8 battery with 900 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) will have ~ 90 Ah Capacity, even if NOT shown on battery label or advertising.

The critical part of battery replacement is to have the CORRECT SETTING in the CAS Module for Battery Type and Battery Capacity. If you are replacing FACTORY battery, you can assume correct setting from factory for THAT Battery. If existing battery was "Dealer-Installed", one would HOPE that Dealer check Factory setting and changed for new battery if needed.

If existing battery is NOT factory, INPA (BMW Factory-Level Diagnostic Software) or SOME Scan Tools can read current Setting to determine if Change of Setting is required. 'Histogram' is overwritten for "Last 5 days" (which is part used to charge new battery), so that after 5 days, the new battery is being charged as though Histogram had been Reset.

'Registration' only enters existing Odometer reading (mileage/km) in "Last Battery Replacement" text field as a historical reference. Some Software also resets Histogram when 'Battery Registration' is selected. NEITHER is needed for proper battery function.
George

[rah4539]

Hello George:
Thank you for the nice welcome. I occasionally review many posts and this is my first actual posting.

1) Engine was not on.
2) I was in the car doing some cleaning and moving some bags and setting a location within the NAV. Then the message for the battery light came on. Again, Car was NOT running. Within about 30 seconds the NAV turned off. PS: I have not noticed any other indications of low battery. Lot's of cranking, slow start, dim lights, etc.
Also, this car sits a lot (weekender) and was sitting for about 10 days (not unusual really).
This battery is the original (from 2011). It IS an AGM.
3) Actually, my garage-shop where I have my tools is 80 mi away. I will do the install and most likely it will be this battery. => https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...uralast+h8+agm

I believe this is about as like for like on generic battery to the original one. I have a Foxwell where I will reset the battery odometer so it knows this is a new battery.
I have a MultiMeter. Last check on battery (engine off)was 12.4V. Will check while running but suspect given age of battery its probably the battery.

So can I get to my workshop?
I think I can - will just drive straight there (no stopping)
How many engine starts do you think I have left?
OR is this really the swan song for this battery?

I called BMW dealer (always nice to me) and they more or less think I can make it home given it is just battery - an to not stop. They don't think any indicators or other problems will occur. They doubt it will just shut off. I can check running Voltage

Any other thoughts? Thanks again for the read and suggestions.
Rich

[marvinstockman]

Get one of these and check your voltage while driving:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+light...f=nb_sb_noss_2

You can also make a simple cig adapter for the multimeter.

[e91Owner]

To answer your question… you will be fine if you are just going to go get a new battery regardless of the distance of the drive.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by rah4539

... 1) Engine was not on. 2) I was in the car doing some cleaning and moving some bags and setting a location within the NAV. [I presume Ignition was ON, but Engine OFF?] Then the message for the battery light came on. Again, Car was NOT running. Within about 30 seconds the NAV turned off. PS: I have not noticed any other indications of low battery... Also, this car sits a lot (weekender) and was sitting for about 10 days (not unusual really). This battery is the original (from 2011). It IS an AGM... I will do the install and most likely it will be this battery. => https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...uralast+h8+agm
... I can check running Voltage...

The Battery you linked has the Terminals in the WRONG position -- reversed from what you NEED. Positive Terminal (Red Plastic Cap in photo) should be forward on OUTBOARD side of battery as installed on RIGHT side of vehicle. Also, Walmart H8 is $70 cheaper and has 150 CCA MORE than the Duralast.

Even though your original battery is ~ 12 years old, and had sat for ~10 days when this occurred, it sounds like it is STILL functional. Unless I misunderstand your description, you had the ignition ON, and certain modules (NAV system on Info Display) drawing battery power, at least until the 30g-f Bi-stable relay shut it down (as it is designed to do). You don't say how long ignition had been on, or what electrical consumers (audio system, lights, CIC, etc.) were drawing power, but most NEW batteries would do SAME thing in 5 minutes or less, particularly if car NOT used for ~ 10 days prior.

Suggestions:
1) Use your Foxwell to display "Histogram" in the PM (Power Module) of your DME, assuming Foxwell can display that (INPA can). That is record of SoC (State of Charge) of battery for last "5 days". It also shows relative SoC for life of battery.

2) Check Battery Voltage after vehicle has sat for a day, week, etc. and record Voltage Value read. Measure with DMM at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood.

3) Check Voltage with engine runnning, to determine that the alternator is charging with engine running, any of following ways:
a) use DMM to measure system voltage at Jumpstart Terminals;
b) use "Hidden Menu 9.00" to display Voltage on Instrument Cluster;
c) use scan tool to display System Voltage as Live Data;
d) use Voltage display of USB charger for Lighter Socket as Marvin suggests.

4) Check for any Fault Codes related to Alternator, PM, etc.

If Alternator continues to charge (14.0+ System Voltage) then if the car starts, you should NOT have any issues with engine quitting or inability to restart if it stalls.
George

[POBEP]

rah4539 +1 to diagnostic notes ^.

The battery is likely aging but not necessarily dying - AGM could last very long time.

The "yellow" battery sign on my E91 (non-AGM) "weeked-er" was coming up for 5 years before it finally gave up to start one cold morning.

Walmart or Costco AGM H8 would be far cheaper option.

$250 is expensive - in that price category you can get fancy one like Odyssey Performance 49-950

[rah4539]

George:
Thank you for reply.
1) I guess I should check daily the voltage on the standing car and track that. What do you think minimum should be? If it goes below 12V then battery is near end? OR another Voltage value?
2) thanks for the Walmart tip!
3) Once car is running - and hopefully Alternater doing its job, any issues with running NAV and AC (summer)? OR will that be major draw on battery?
R

POBEP:
Very interesting comment on the yellow battery sign coming up so early.
1) Where you charging the battery in between? Monthly or?
2) You mention after market stores - for an H8 - how do I make sure posts are not reversed?
3) Either of you actually change the battery yourselves? I have seen videos - seems a little tricky but doable for me- and I have Foxpro for registering.

So how do I know when battery really is ready to go?

THANKS TO ALL!
Richard

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by rah4539

1) Where you charging the battery in between? Monthly or?

I charged it one time, 5 years later after its first "yellow battery" warning - when it failed to crank.
and then replaced with new one 2 week later.

Originally Posted by rah4539

2) You mention after market stores - for an H8 - how do I make sure posts are not reversed?

I think that "posts are reversed on the picture" statement was inaccurate. Any H8 battery is "right positive" by the spec.

The battery mounted in BMW bay such as posts are facing out - 180 degrees compared to marketing picture. Hence, it may visually "appear" that posts are reversed.

Originally Posted by rah4539

3) Either of you actually change the battery yourselves? I have seen videos - seems a little tricky but doable for me- and I have Foxpro for registering.

yes, most of us replace battery ourselves.
It is no more complicated than changing it an alarm clock - it just somewhat bigger in size than AA or AAA we all use to

disconnect old, connect new, program it (with a scanner or ISTA), grab a beer

In E93 it will take some additional time to get to it.

Originally Posted by rah4539

So how do I know when battery really is ready to go?

- lazy metric: the "yellow battery" sign gets very annoying over time but car works fine when started. the second time it fails to start the engine you buy new one.
- semi-scientific metric: battery voltage reports 12.4-12.6V immediately after stopping the engine, but then drops below 12.0V within a minute of ignition being switched off (unable to accept and hold charge)