[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Öperator

Waiting on my new wheels to show up so I can mount my winter tires. Once I get them back I plan to do a stud conversion.

Original/aftermarket?

[anielsen71]

Sound is the same, it’s a 35d
I’ve had Bilstein B16’s on my former E91. They were a bit harsh.
KW’s should be a bit softer. And having the active suspension I want the DDC version to be able to switch between comfort and sport stiffness.

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by anielsen71

Sound is the same, it’s a 35d
I’ve had Bilstein B16’s on my former E91. They were a bit harsh.
KW’s should be a bit softer. And having the active suspension I want the DDC version to be able to switch between comfort and sport stiffness.

I bet with active suspension they should be fantastic!
Let us know how they are after the installation.
Never used B16s, but from what i read they are too much for daily use.

[Samir72]

Originally Posted by karapet85

Good idea! How much is the approx cost in the UK?

They are currently £1700 but I have seen them drop to £1500 with around £200 to fit.

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Samir72

They are currently £1700 but I have seen them drop to £1500 with around £200 to fit.

Seems to be more expensive compared to the USA...

[Öperator]

Originally Posted by karapet85

Original/aftermarket?

Aftermarket. I foolishly didn't pay attention to the fine print when I spec'd out the wheels that said they would require custom drilling. That has added about 3 weeks to the process. Thankfully my area in Colorado hasn't been hit by as much snow, so getting around isn't as dicey, on my A/S's.

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Öperator

Aftermarket. I foolishly didn't pay attention to the fine print when I spec'd out the wheels that said they would require custom drilling. That has added about 3 weeks to the process. Thankfully my area in Colorado hasn't been hit by as much snow, so getting around isn't as dicey, on my A/S's.

Clear, thanks!
Would love to see the photos after the installation 😎

[johnung]

Originally Posted by karapet85

Not bad for where I live And what about the labor?

Labor in the US to install an M Performance LSD is about $650. Removing the rear differential on an F3x is NOT a common procedure that all BMW independent or dealer mechanics are experienced at doing. Many assume that the procedure is the same as the E-Series chassis, but it is not!

The biggest issue with getting an F3 rear differential/LSD installed is finding a mechanic with experience who has the special tools. My buddy used a BMW specialty shop who claimed that they could do it, but they damaged his LSD. It was a nightmare for him to find another at more than double what he had paid.

The F3x requires two special tools. See photos:
1) A huge open wrench on about a 3 foot long handle to generate enough torque to remove/install the main driveshaft running down the center of the car.

2) A special tool that is inserted into the tiny space between the differential and the short half-shafts to pop them off. The E-Series half-shafts are bolted on, but the F-Series uses a tiny circlip riding in a groove.

You will see people online claiming that they rigged up all sorts of things to do it without the special tools. I would not risk it with an MP LSD which at this point can be both rare and expensive.

NO coding is necessary with the MP LSD. It installs and works seamlessly with the electronic system that comes stock in the car. (MP LSD works from 1-19% rear wheel slippage while electronic system works at 30% and above. No conflict/overlap between the two, so no coding needed.) However many aftermarket LSDs do require coding.

Hope this helps!

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by johnung

Labor in the US to install an M Performance LSD is about $650. Removing the rear differential on an F3x is NOT a common procedure that all BMW independent or dealer mechanics are experienced at doing. Many assume that the procedure is the same as the E-Series chassis, but it is not!

The biggest issue with getting an F3 rear differential/LSD installed is finding a mechanic with experience who has the special tools. My buddy used a BMW specialty shop who claimed that they could do it, but they damaged his LSD. It was a nightmare for him to find another at more than double what he had paid.

The F3x requires two special tools. See photos:
1) A huge open wrench on about a 3 foot long handle to generate enough torque to remove/install the main driveshaft running down the center of the car.

2) A special tool that is inserted into the tiny space between the differential and the short half-shafts to pop them off. The E-Series half-shafts are bolted on, but the F-Series uses a tiny circlip riding in a groove.

You will see people online claiming that they rigged up all sorts of things to do it without the special tools. I would not risk it with an MP LSD which at this point can be both rare and expensive.

NO coding is necessary with the MP LSD. It installs and works seamlessly with the electronic system that comes stock in the car. (MP LSD works from 1-19% rear wheel slippage while electronic system works at 30% and above. No conflict/overlap between the two, so no coding needed.) However many aftermarket LSDs do require coding.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the detailed information!

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by karapet85

Never heard about it. Just googled, and seems like an aftermarket solution for night vision
Will you use it as a standalone device or integrate it with HU? Looks like a cool upgrade!

It would be used for night driving so I would get a separate screen and suction cup it in front of the cluster on the windshield so it's right in my line of sight. Would be used the massive amount of deer by me and for hidden police on the highways. I drive at 2am so it would be extremely useful.

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Solidjake

It would be used for night driving so I would get a separate screen and suction cup it in front of the cluster on the windshield so it's right in my line of sight. Would be used the massive amount of deer by me and for hidden police on the highways. I drive at 2am so it would be extremely useful.

Wow, sounds good!
Btw, how far it can see?

[Ho hum]

I put some 12mm and 15mm spacers on my F32 this afternoon.

Quite a simple mod, but very effective as the wheels fill the arches much better

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Ho hum

I put some 12mm and 15mm spacers on my F32 this afternoon.

Quite a simple mod, but very effective as the wheels fill the arches much better

Cool! Any photos?

[Ho hum]

Originally Posted by karapet85

Cool! Any photos?

It was getting dark just as I finished putting them on.

I will take some photos next weekend

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by Ho hum

It was getting dark just as I finished putting them on.

I will take some photos next weekend

Sounds good, thanks!

[im_an_alien]

This thread is turning into another what did you do to your F3x today....

[spoilerbrake196]

Hey
I have a 2015 BMW 335i xdrive base model ( base model seats heated+ particial electric+ memory). I picked up m sport seats from a 340i (lumbar support+ side bolster+ heated+ memory). All I did was swapping the seats and belt tensioners and also my driver seat gray box Module from my car , everything works EXCEPT SIDE BOLSTERS AND LUMBER SUPPORT. It really sucks because I was so excited once the seat moved automatically and heating worked. Anyone had the same situation or know what do I need to do

[eff32fl]

Originally Posted by im_an_alien

This thread is turning into another what did you do to your F3x today....

Yeah it's basically a redundant thread.

[Runner340]

Originally Posted by spoilerbrake196

Hey
I have a 2015 BMW 335i xdrive base model ( base model seats heated+ particial electric+ memory). I picked up m sport seats from a 340i (lumbar support+ side bolster+ heated+ memory). All I did was swapping the seats and belt tensioners and also my driver seat gray box Module from my car , everything works EXCEPT SIDE BOLSTERS AND LUMBER SUPPORT. It really sucks because I was so excited once the seat moved automatically and heating worked. Anyone had the same situation or know what do I need to do

Swapping out control modules may be the issue based off my experience having done a similar exercise on an e90 years back. I needed to source control modules compatible with the L/R seats wire harnesses. The leather sport seats I had purchased with power bolsters and lumbar from a midwest salvage yard did not come with the control modules which they sold separately.

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by im_an_alien

This thread is turning into another what did you do to your F3x today....

Yep, but that is not bad too. Seems that not everyone has future plans ...
Usually, I have 2-3 items in backlog

[karapet85]

Originally Posted by spoilerbrake196

Hey
I have a 2015 BMW 335i xdrive base model ( base model seats heated+ particial electric+ memory). I picked up m sport seats from a 340i (lumbar support+ side bolster+ heated+ memory). All I did was swapping the seats and belt tensioners and also my driver seat gray box Module from my car , everything works EXCEPT SIDE BOLSTERS AND LUMBER SUPPORT. It really sucks because I was so excited once the seat moved automatically and heating worked. Anyone had the same situation or know what do I need to do

I upgraded mines a year ago. Bolsters and LS work correctly.

[FuturPhil]

I’m trying to find out if there are any parts/mods/upgrades that increase longevity. Not looking for performance increase or anything just simply reliability.

Potentially some plastic/rubber replacements in the engine bay but not sure as Iv read mixed views on stuff. I basically want my car to last as long as it can as it is.

Some things I read about include
- Charge pipe
- Boost pipe
- Air Intake pipe
- Water hose
- Air hose
- Render valve
- Oil cooler valve
- Thermostat

Not sure what else could improve reliability other than just being a great care taker and keeping up with maintenance