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      03-23-2023, 06:26 PM   #22133
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I HAVE BEEN MENTIONED!
MAMA I MADE IT!

Speaking of engine detailing, my bay could probably use a good wash.. it's been a while and dusty ol' NorCal is not kind to engine bays. Mayhaps I shall add a quick engine detail to the list of all the little busywork I have planned for the 335i this weekend...
Sure couldn't hurt, huh?
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      03-23-2023, 07:01 PM   #22134
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Starter died. Unfortunately this was at the airport, and so I had to get it towed back home whereupon I am awaiting the parts to arrive to fix it.

Yes, I tried the time-honored bang on the starter with a rod/bar/broomstick trick to no avail.

More details to come, no-doubt.
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      03-24-2023, 12:50 AM   #22135
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Christmas has come early at the GnomeChild household, which seems to be an occurrence that seems to be happening more often these days

Started off by unpacking a new-to-me LCI e90 Owner's Manual











My car never came with one back when I bought it in 2018 and now all things are right with the world. I have all the period correct instructions and e90 memorabilia I could ever want! It's like a time capsule to a different age! The glamour shots of all the little knobs and switches and compartments in the manual are nice touch





My M-Performance 4" exhaust tips came in finally. They are single walled and although I prefer double wall tips, I compromised because I thought the ///MPerformance cutout logo was worth it. Maybe a little excessive and not for everyone; I bought them before I sourced my M Performance exhaust so at that point I was already pretty committed to the OEM exhaust goodness. The only thing disappointing about it is the final finish. The stainless finish itself is good but the welds look pretty amateur; not exactly what I was expecting for the price I paid and coming out of Germany...
Luckily the welds will mostly be hidden by the bumper but yeah, not something I'm happy about. Maybe if I complain to the seller I can get a few bucks kickback. The M Performance logo itself looks pretty pristine though and finished well. Honestly a very confusing product, like they went all out to make sure the logo looked flawless and good finish but overlooked the rest of the tip

Holding them in hand now though I am not sure how I feel about them over the M-Sport tips that have a subtle engraved "///M" logo in them. I'll sit on them for a while until I make my ultimate decision





My "M-Sport" Pedals came as well. They are "inspired" (blatant ripoffs) of AC Schnitzer pedals without the logos. I had to piece together two different pedal sets to get the two smaller clutch/brake pedals and the M-logo gas pedal. The Manual pedal set were cheap chinesium knockoffs on eBay and the automatic pedal set came with the M gas pedal and came straight from Amazon Germany. However, looking at finish and quality you'd think those sources would be completely reversed. The cheap Chinese set has thicker metal, a nice brush pattern, and stickier rubber while the German set with the M logo uses thinner metal, a nastier brush grain, and "slippy-er" rubber, for lack of a better term. Plus the edges are not straight, the M-Logo only looks "okay", and overall it just doesn't look good at all inspected closely. I want the M logo but the distinction in finish and quality are so glaring. I may just return the automatic M-Logo kit and just run the blank chinesium set.

0 for 2 in my book on the Deutsche custom products, not a good day for the Germans imo







My connectors for the B58 coil kit came in as well. They use an assortment of small little pieces and seem a little fragile but they fit perfect and it came with all the pins/rubber grommets I need. I think they are the same connectors that come in Rich's Fat Bunny kit. I hope he is not mad
Straight from China too; that's 2 for 2 for Xinnie the Pooh





My Evolution Racewerks Aluminum Chargepipe also came in. Unfortunately my middleman ordered the wrong pipe; I really shouldn't complain over the free $50 upgrade but I really was dead set in running the Pre-LCI style pipe and utilizing the Pre-LCI rubber chargepipe boot, especially since it looks more stealth/stock. I didn't unwrap it and simply repacked it in anticipation of having to ship it back; I have to call either Evolution Racewerks or my supplier tomorrow, possibly both, to figure out where to go from here. Unlike my FCP Sparkplugs, ER actually did send me the wrong product; guy can't catch a break





My "OEM" fuzzy wiring tape came in from Amazon. This will come in handy for all the small wiring harnesses I will be retrofitting to the car: M3 servotronic wiring, Rear power Sunblind wiring, rear door puddle lights, rear Comfort Access handles, soft close F10 door actuators, factory alarm. I will probably redo my front and rear ashtray/power socket wiring as well when I swap out my center console to the Pre-LCI "refrigerated drink" cupholder console.







Yet another box coming in from FCP as well, this time with a nice Euro center console lid. Will probably be a waste if/when I'll upgrade to M3 interior but for now it'll look good and complete my Pre-LCI center console retrofit



(Extended to the position I will never use since the "US" position is already good enough)



New aluminum inserts for the cabin filter cowl upgrade. I bought the brass ones initially and sprang for the aluminum ones when I saw they were available. I'm still sitting on a set of nearly 15 of the upgrade kits. I really should start looking to move them soon



Upgraded diverter seals for my Porsche 710N Diverter upgrade. Once the prototyping and test fitting of the kit is complete these will ensure my diverter piping stays nice and sealed meaning no boost leaks! These are a common upgrade for stock diverters and if they are leaking you may just need to upgrade your seals. I'll have a few sets of these for sale as well (you will need 4 total)!



I didn't know what this mess was until I opened it but it seems as though my Chinese door handle "upgrades" came in as well. I am honestly surprised they came this damage-free being shipped in a thin padded bag out of China but I am sure greater miracles have happened.







The fit seems pretty okay but finish on them are not the greatest or "OEM". For $30 shipped though, I am not complaining, and you'd hardly be able to retell once all the doors are changed out. Instead of the soft OEM rubber, these handles feel a tad more like hard plastic and not entirely "rubbery". Not exactly a bad thing for the fragile/thin feeling inner handles but not the greatest on the outer covers that are normally a soft/bouncy rubber material. I will be trying to reuse my OEM outers since they are still in great shape on the Chinese inners. Hopefully I don't run into any fitment issues.





The inners normally come with just 4 screws but the whole kit seemed to come with a bunch more extra clips/screws than I'll need but they may have included them for use in reattaching the driver's doorpull since that is held on by plastic-welded rivets that will need to be drilled off







Lastly, a set of chinesium M-Sport splitters came in as well. I am getting dangerously close to the comfortable limit of the percentage of my car that's made in China but I digress. For $30 shipped obviously they are not real carbonfiber and only have a hydro dipped carbonfiber weave pattern on them (and not even a very good one at that lol). The plastic feels pretty stout though and it comes preinstalled with the double sided adhesive. I got them to compare with another set of chinesium splitters I bought 3 years ago and never installed yet (which should surprise absolutely no one). The set I like more will get refinished and sprayed in BMW Seifer Grau (A97) to match the rear M-Performance diffuser I have been sitting on since 2018 that I ordered from FCP. I will probably wrap my M-Sport bumper around the air ducts in clear vinyl to avoid any marking/marring in my Euro M-Sport bumper once the splitters get installed.



And finally, since I need to actually have done something on my car to qualify for this thread I did end up taking the new owner's manual out to the car and stuffing it in the glovebox. Not sure why my liner came out kinda purple in this pic but I digress. It was a tight squeeze but everything seemed to fit well afterall. I need to clear it out some sometime, but for now I'll put it off for later (naturally)

Sorry for the poor lighting in some of the pics, and also the pics themselves are not the greatest with the imagehosting compression, but I trust no one's gonna die and everyone will make it out okay
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      03-24-2023, 02:15 PM   #22136
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GnomeChild you're really going off on those mods lol. Thank you for reminding me- I also need to do window switch and door pull trims. As well as finish the soft close retrofit.. And maybe I should order tessa tape beforehand this time. Hate the look of electrical tape. Mmm maybe I should go back and fix all my electrical tape harnesses.. man.

On things I've done today:
The last bits for my ACC retrofit have finally arrived. Just in time for me to go fetch my car this next month, hopefully on my bday. Just need to polish it up
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      03-24-2023, 02:56 PM   #22137
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Spent $10.21 for 4 bolts... I evened out the transaction by grabbing a coffee and a couple granola bars at the dealership...

Parts Guy - you drive an old bmw... you guys don't buy new bmws cause " they don't make them like they used to.."
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      03-24-2023, 04:10 PM   #22138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
GnomeChild you're really going off on those mods lol. Thank you for reminding me- I also need to do window switch and door pull trims. As well as finish the soft close retrofit.. And maybe I should order tessa tape beforehand this time. Hate the look of electrical tape. Mmm maybe I should go back and fix all my electrical tape harnesses.. man.
The 335 I has sat neglected too long and I'M TIRED OF IT!

Electrical tape is fine in the engine bay/exterior but the interior is all Tessa tape. I made the mistake of ordering the OEM Genuine BMW "Tessa" tape when I did my front ashtray/rear 12v socket retrofits and I got this thick, almost Velcro like tape. I used it because I had it on hand but it didn't look right. I love it when stuff looks OEM and it bothers me, even if covered up, when it looks out of place or hacked on. That's why I don't ever use wiretaps, try to source OEM wire colors, study the original wiring diagrams, I always solder wires/repin connectors, etc etc etc. I've even fished wires through existing factory harnesses that have already been wrapped with the Tessa. I basically try to leave my work finished like it came that was from the factory or like I was never in there to begin with. I'm obsessed, I can admit it

Functionally, it is no different than a few aftermarket plugs here, missing/soldered connectors there, and a few wire/fusetaps; it often makes 1-2 hours jobs turn into 3-4. But it's good for the soul, and that's what matters

Quote:
On things I've done today:
The last bits for my ACC retrofit have finally arrived. Just in time for me to go fetch my car this next month, hopefully on my bday. Just need to polish it up
Ahh yeah... the ACC retrofit. Despite me wanting to retrofit nearly everything possible, ACC is probably one mod I will pass on. Functionally it's real nice, and I believe Vehicular DIY even had a video showing the retrofit process (and had it functional once his car was manual swapped too) but I had to draw the line somewhere lol

I've got at least 20 different mods/retrofits sitting, waiting on parts, and more importantly: my lazy ass to have some time to work them in. It's embarassing if not a little frustrating having so many things only halfway done on the car. I need to stop browsing the forums for a while and tackle one mod/retrofit to utter completion before I start sourcing parts for another lol

I told myself I didn't need ACC though cause the sensor housing capitalizes on that right corner of your grille and I justify me not adding it because it'll "cut off the airflow to my radiator/IC" lol
It just activates my OCD just a tad when the front is not "symmetrical". Plus I'm not sure it's something that's compatible to my future steering wheel plans (Heated F10 wheel + multimedia controls emulator)

I respect it though, it's a nice feature to have

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoidat69 View Post
Spent $10.21 for 4 bolts
Yeah been there done that haha!

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      03-24-2023, 04:17 PM   #22139
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Got the car back. Rod bearings had a few scratches in them, but were generally fine. Worn down a layer in most places.

And now, of course, my AC doesn’t work. Just blows hot air. And the car thinks someone is sitting in the passenger seat - the chime keeps going on.

For a 72K mile car, I’m not impressed. Should’ve just bought an E350…
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      03-24-2023, 04:25 PM   #22140
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gnomechild is on a roll!
awaiting aftermarket parts at your door is one of the simple pleasures in this life.
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      03-24-2023, 04:47 PM   #22141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoody007 View Post
Got the car back. Rod bearings had a few scratches in them, but were generally fine. Worn down a layer in most places.

And now, of course, my AC doesn’t work. Just blows hot air. And the car thinks someone is sitting in the passenger seat - the chime keeps going on.

For a 72K mile car, I’m not impressed. Should’ve just bought an E350…
Freon recharge for your AC, and bimmercode to code out your seatbelt. Lots of praying for the rod bearings
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      03-24-2023, 05:12 PM   #22142
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Did some vacuum testing yesterday, primarily for the exhaust flap vacuum circuit. Pulled the left side carpeting cover inside the trunk and applied vacuum to the exhaust flap solenoid ports and 2 vacuum hoses connected to them. It looks like my exhaust flap solenoid is leaking vacuum. I applied it to the “supply” side of the solenoid (i.e., the barb connected to the vacuum hose which goes all the way to the engine bay), and the pressure noticeably and steadily increases. I don’t think that’s the right “behavior”, when I tested analogous solenoids, they all held vacuum on the “supply” barb for a very long time. I also vacuum tested the hose which supplies vacuum to solenoid from the reservoir in the valve cover, does have some very slow vacuum loss but perhaps that’s okay. Exhaust flap actuator didn’t hold vacuum but moved when the vacuum was applied, and the output barb of the solenoid didn’t hold vacuum either, but I think that might be the right behavior. Or perhaps the actuator is supposed to hold vacuum?
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      03-24-2023, 06:37 PM   #22143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92only View Post
Freon recharge for your AC, and bimmercode to code out your seatbelt. Lots of praying for the rod bearings
That’s the plan. Taking it in on Tuesday to have the system inspected - I think my heater core might also be partially clogged as it only blows heat out of the drivers side.

New rod bearings are definitely a relief though. Good piece of mind.

The occupancy sensor is really unacceptable though. It currently doesn’t detect anyone sitting in the passenger seat, yet sets the chime off - which means the passenger airbags won’t go off in a collision even if someone is sitting there. Have no idea why the mat is $700…
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      03-24-2023, 07:43 PM   #22144
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I coded out my seatbelt chime with occupancy a long time ago. My belt works perfect (detects when I'm in the seat and will display if my belt is unbuckled, but won't chime). However I had my buddy test out my passenger seat when we replaced my front buckles after uh... some... fun times... with a heat gun

Basically, when he sat in the passenger seat without the seatbelt, there was no indicator his seatbelt was unbuckled, and obviously no chime. The overhead lightpanel has an indicator for "passenger airbag off" that is on for about 20-30 seconds when the car is started but shuts off, presumably meaning that the passenger airbag was is armed in the event of collision. Is there supposed to be an indicator for passenger seatbelt unbuckled or would my buddy have been safe in the event of a collision in this case?

I have often observed the "passenger airbag off" light turn on during driving as well, mostly when I am transporting small light packages to the post office and the seatbelt is unbuckled. Is my occupancy mat functioning correctly?
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      03-24-2023, 11:28 PM   #22145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Screenshotting this for later lol. How is the torque increase so far? Swapping my 3SIM for an N54 mani and hoping this will at least even out that lower-mid range loss

Speaking of- can anyone here help me out? I need a pigtail off an N54 throttle body. I believe 08+ 328s share the same connector as well. Will pay TIA
If your car is an auto I'd stick with the 3SIM. I'm holding on to mine until I go super charger - if I do.

I'll say that my car feels great and loves revving out. Most days it feels like plenty of juice. THAT SAID - hyde might have a roots SC in the near future and I'm all ears.
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      03-25-2023, 12:53 AM   #22146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastboatster View Post
Did some vacuum testing yesterday, primarily for the exhaust flap vacuum circuit. Pulled the left side carpeting cover inside the trunk and applied vacuum to the exhaust flap solenoid ports and 2 vacuum hoses connected to them. It looks like my exhaust flap solenoid is leaking vacuum. I applied it to the “supply” side of the solenoid (i.e., the barb connected to the vacuum hose which goes all the way to the engine bay), and the pressure noticeably and steadily increases. I don’t think that’s the right “behavior”, when I tested analogous solenoids, they all held vacuum on the “supply” barb for a very long time. I also vacuum tested the hose which supplies vacuum to solenoid from the reservoir in the valve cover, does have some very slow vacuum loss but perhaps that’s okay. Exhaust flap actuator didn’t hold vacuum but moved when the vacuum was applied, and the output barb of the solenoid didn’t hold vacuum either, but I think that might be the right behavior. Or perhaps the actuator is supposed to hold vacuum?
Got the exhaust flap solenoid ordered, but also discovered that my wastegate control solenoid is not good either. It also doesn’t hold the vacuum on the inlet side unlike the spare brand new pierburg solenoid I had on hand. I installed it and the car feels noticeably better, I don’t get that occasional touchy jerky throttle from the standstill anymore when the car would hesitate to accelerate and then the acceleration would “catch up”
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      03-25-2023, 09:04 AM   #22147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GnomeChild View Post
I coded out my seatbelt chime with occupancy a long time ago. My belt works perfect (detects when I'm in the seat and will display if my belt is unbuckled, but won't chime). However I had my buddy test out my passenger seat when we replaced my front buckles after uh... some... fun times... with a heat gun

Basically, when he sat in the passenger seat without the seatbelt, there was no indicator his seatbelt was unbuckled, and obviously no chime. The overhead lightpanel has an indicator for "passenger airbag off" that is on for about 20-30 seconds when the car is started but shuts off, presumably meaning that the passenger airbag was is armed in the event of collision. Is there supposed to be an indicator for passenger seatbelt unbuckled or would my buddy have been safe in the event of a collision in this case?

I have often observed the "passenger airbag off" light turn on during driving as well, mostly when I am transporting small light packages to the post office and the seatbelt is unbuckled. Is my occupancy mat functioning correctly?
Sounds like it’s working correctly.

Mine keeps the light on even if there’s nothing in the seat - and it stays lit even if an adult sits there.

So I have no choice but to code off the OC3 sensor until I have the mat replaced. Which is lovely.
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      03-25-2023, 09:09 AM   #22148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoody007 View Post
Got the car back. Rod bearings had a few scratches in them, but were generally fine. Worn down a layer in most places.

And now, of course, my AC doesn’t work. Just blows hot air. And the car thinks someone is sitting in the passenger seat - the chime keeps going on.

For a 72K mile car, I’m not impressed. Should’ve just bought an E350…

That sucks. With that said, it's best to buy the car you like driving, because they all suck and they all break.
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      03-25-2023, 10:52 AM   #22149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoody007 View Post
Sounds like it’s working correctly.

Mine keeps the light on even if there’s nothing in the seat - and it stays lit even if an adult sits there.

So I have no choice but to code off the OC3 sensor until I have the mat replaced. Which is lovely.
But you don't get the little red man with a seatbelt indicator in the cluster, correct? I know for the Driver's seatbelt, I get the little red cluster indicator. I thought I would get the indicator for passenger too but there is a possibility it's just the little overhead light
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      03-25-2023, 12:55 PM   #22150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GnomeChild View Post
I have often observed the "passenger airbag off" light turn on during driving as well, mostly when I am transporting small light packages to the post office and the seatbelt is unbuckled. Is my occupancy mat functioning correctly?
You may need one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/151155246176 But they're usually for one the chime won't stop. I guess the leather tightens with age and gives false sensor readings that there's a body there.


BTW, what are the part #s for the rear outlets and/or where did you get that at? I've never seen that before and do like it!
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      03-25-2023, 02:24 PM   #22151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StradaRedlands View Post
You may need one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/151155246176 But they're usually for one the chime won't stop. I guess the leather tightens with age and gives false sensor readings that there's a body there.


BTW, what are the part #s for the rear outlets and/or where did you get that at? I've never seen that before and do like it!
Oh, my chime isn't going off, it's been coded out in both seats and was functioning fine before I coded the chime. I was just wondering if the passenger seat sets off the "little red man" in the instrument cluster: only my driver's seat seems to activate it but seems as though the safety systems in both seats function correctly. I am not going to test to be absolutely sure, for obvious reasons

Hoody007 may appreciate that simulator though, could help solve his issue superficially for cheaper than a new sensor mat

As far as the "Happy Robot" mod goes, I remember doing it a few years back. I think I paid like $80? $120 max with all the little connectors and bits etc.

Here is the DIY page for it:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29773
I don't have the part number on hand but the DIY thread has it for all interior colors. You'll see my posts later in the thread if you dig deep enough

Fair word of caution before you run the numbers: they are no longer anywhere close to $80
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      03-25-2023, 02:48 PM   #22152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GnomeChild View Post
Oh, my chime isn't going off, it's been coded out in both seats and was functioning fine before I coded the chime. I was just wondering if the passenger seat sets off the "little red man" in the instrument cluster: only my driver's seat seems to activate it but seems as though the safety systems in both seats function correctly. I am not going to test to be absolutely sure, for obvious reasons

Hoody007 may appreciate that simulator though, could help solve his issue superficially for cheaper than a new sensor mat

As far as the "Happy Robot" mod goes, I remember doing it a few years back. I think I paid like $80? $120 max with all the little connectors and bits etc.

Here is the DIY page for it:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29773
I don't have the part number on hand but the DIY thread has it for all interior colors. You'll see my posts later in the thread if you dig deep enough

Fair word of caution before you run the numbers: they are no longer anywhere close to $80
Thanks! You're right, a quick look shows they have definitely gone up in price! I could put some generic surface mounts on, but I don't have a huge need. Just thought it was pretty cool!
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      03-25-2023, 02:58 PM   #22153
StradaRedlands
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2006 BMW 330i  [8.25]
2009 BMW 328i Touri ...  [8.00]
2013 BMW X5 35i  [7.80]
2011 BMW 528i  [8.70]
2006 Mazda3  [5.50]
Big day, dropped in a Euro air box! Cost me $200 including a new filter. It came with a MAF sensor and I'm betting it has less miles on it than my nearly 227k mile one, so just used what was on it. Part number is the same as the one I have. A little more low speed whine, and maybe a smidge more pull above 4,500 RPM? Or maybe not, who knows.

Anyway, real easy upgrade. I have a silicone intake boot, and some scoops, so I should be getting as much air into the engine as possible at this point!


Last edited by StradaRedlands; 03-25-2023 at 05:06 PM..
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      03-25-2023, 04:14 PM   #22154
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Stabbed myself while working on my Porsche 710N diverter upgrade





I will now have matching scars on both hands. The world is in perfect balance





That air box is sweet btw StradaRedlands. If I had a 328i it would have been one of the very first mods I did
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