[jkline398]

Hey everyone I just got my very first bmw ever. Last week when I Facebook listed my '15 passat with a low speed t-boned driver door and got an offer to trade for a 2010 335i with less miles (than vw wreck) but rough idle at op temp (that kid owner said may have blown engine) I couldn't resist after reading about the injector issues.

Years ago I revived a 1995 7.3l powerstroke (diesel truck) that was very similar to this by easily replacing the injector orings one afternoon after buying it (with a suspected blown engine also) and it drives (and towed this bmw on a gooseneck hauler) amazing to this day with 402,xxx miles on the clock.

So I have ordered the decouplers and injector seals (near the tip) for all 6 Injectors and will install this weekend. I am also installing ISTA/Rheingold on my laptop to run tests and diagnose further.

Could I get some feedback on a couple other codes it's throwing though?

29E0 Mixture Control | 30FF Turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low | 2E84 BSD, message; electric coolant pump: Missing | 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation | 2E85 BSD, message; electric coolant pump: Missing | 5E19 Engine management: interface | 5DF4 System voltage too low | 9CB3 Ride - height sensor, front, faulty | D690 Ring break diagnosis had been carried out

The last one is only one that concerned me, the rest I will tackle one by one to not feel overwhelmed. I'm guessing I have a loose/cracked turbo intake boot, but what is this about coolant pump (does it mean the water pump, and it's not reporting/wire disconnected?), and no idea about the engine management or system voltage too low. The front pass tire had 15psi and front driver had 60psi (both 36 now) but that may be why height sensor faulty.. also after repairing Injectors and sealing them good, checking if they are black or loosely seated (ovaled holes) I will do a compression test on all cylinders and report back on blown engine.

Thanks for reading the long post! And I do look forward to this journey! Unless motor really is blown haha (my time here will be done)

[shaunse90]

For the waterpump codes, maybe check wiring connections to the actual clip that connects into the waterpump, should be able to see it from just jacking the car up and taking the plastic shield off the car. I had a similar issue but it was my waterpump electrical system or something that got messed up in the pump and took down my bsd line lol.

For the 30ff, check the main chargepipe to the throttle body, prone to cracking.

Maybe try replacing the battery too if it looks old, sometimes bad batteries can create a bunch of electrical gremlins.

Good luck, hopefully the engine isnt blown!

[jkline398]

Thank you for quick response! I have the battery on my noco charger/conditioner that is a proven champ at recovering older sitting batteries.

I will check the water pump connection and the charge tube.

Edit: I did end up getting a new bigger h8 battery for it and swapped with protool. It had a Walmart non agm, small battery and I read a lot how important battery is, def wasn't helping anything.

[jkline398]

I haven't been able to stop thinking about the ring break diagnosis code and finally got some time to look into it.. Lol I had piston rings in my head this whole time because I'm pretty old school, like previous owner somehow checked for that and car tattled. I see that it has to do with connected computer/devices and there is a break in comms and is very common.

[jkline398]

I have update on this project as im calling it now. Potential money pit may be more accurate, as it does have some amazing potential 😅. I have agreed with the poll results and will see where this ends up, I mean it is a masterfully engineered RWD forced induction BMW!

I have got it running amazing! The misfire codes are gone, I replaced the front shocks that were bouncing and new Dinan coil packs and Bosch spark plugs, perhaps also the CRF 505 by fuel treatment by ATS Chemical has helped as well, but I have not been able to drive farther than around my block because I know now it needs a new coolant pump and thermo as I have to shut her down once coolant reaches temp (it will pass 240F and I'm not ok with that) . I changed the oil and topping off the AT fluid has it shifting great as well. This car was truly a mess when I got it so I have decided to send it in to my local trusted shop for the water pump and possible oil pan gasket while they are in there and take a good look over everything. It had white smoke out exhaust while I was working in it but that's gone now after oil change (really prev owner, come on). I'll have the shop compression test as well so I have a written history on that end.

When I'm all done I'll probably sell it so someone has a great car to have fun with, I really don't need another car lol.

[oVeRdOsE.]

yeah those car, among a lot of german cars, are over-engineered, at least from the needs of the era. Nothing bad to be proactive on innovation, but few stuff can be a pain to work on.

IMO, a E90 is a DIY car, period. Unless you like to spend money, a lot. You better with a used golf R in that case.

The parts are not extremely expensive, but most of the issue are time consuming.

I would say if a valve cover gasket or the water pump is too much for your skills, yeah better sell it.

because there's more other harder/longer job (and easier too) , to be done on those cars.
Now include a higher mileage/old car in the pack, your not out of the wood : suspension, bearing, busing, ball joints, a/c compressor, possibly rod bearing, all plastic and rubber stuff...

the positive aspect, it most of the time E90 issue don't ALL appear magically @ 100k / 10years , so 1 issue here and there per year, makes the ratio hate/love pretty good .

[jkline398]

I'll keep that ratio in mind, it's pretty good if so. I plan to keep it around for a while and enjoy it after the WP. Maybe it will last long enough I'll have my shop and lift for next time.