10-24-2012, 08:44 AM | #1 |
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Gas Door rattle (for those with sub(s) in the trunk)
After tossing an aftermarket amp and 12" sub into the trunk of my F30, the biggest thing i've found that rattles quite embarassingly is the gas door on the passneger side. Anyone found an easy way to rectify this, either with a strategically placed piece of 'padding' or some sort of sound deadener?
Quick photo of the sub/amp below. Box is secured with velcro |
10-25-2012, 07:42 PM | #3 | |
Second Lieutenant
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Quote:
http://www.f30post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=18 It's very obvious once you look at your stock amp which is in the trunk on the drivers side under the removable plastic cover. There's a convenient ground location on the drivers side behind the carpet for your amp. And in terms of power, just run a line to the convenient positive terminal accessory location which is under a small red plastic cover that has a + sign on it. It's just above the actual positive terminal on the battery which is behind the removable cover on the right side of the trunk. In terms of the overall install process, it's very straightforward.... 1. REMOVE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELECTRICAL... if i remember correctly, you need a 9 or 10mm socket wrench 2. Take in line fuse out of your power wire 3. Run power wire to positive terminal accessory location. This should be a 10mm nut that you just remove, put power wire terminal ring over, then put nut back on 4. Run other end of power wire to amp 5. Acquire audio signal by tapping the 4 thick wires from the stock amp output and run to your aftermarket amp (either directly to hi level input location (recommended) or to RCA line out converter which then goes to your RCA input on aftermarket amp). 6. Run remote turn on to the very thin black wire coming from the stock amp 7. Ground your amp to one of the available grounding locations in the trunk (behind the carpet). I used the one on the drivers side as my amp/sub is velcroed down to the drivers side of the trunk. The grounding location looks like a rectangular plate with a bunch of brown stock ground wires going to it. Just loosen the mounting screw that holds the plate down, and slide your ground wire under it and tighten back down. 8. Put in line fuse back in power wire 9. Reconnect negative terminal and test amp/sub 10. Tuck wires away and secure sub box for a clean install 10. RESET YOUR DATE/TIME in iDrive as there will be a yellow warning indicator that pops up since the car did not have power Rock out with your new and improved audio system ! |
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10-26-2012, 12:17 PM | #6 |
Second Lieutenant
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Nope, left them running to fill the mid range nicely and now the aftermarket sub takes care of the lows which it's made for... when you go in to Tone settings, i have it so it's always between 3-7 clicks which is well below the middle since the stock system distorts when cranked with the bass that high on a lot of songs (hip hop i gotta back it off a touch, classic rock i can turn up a bit, all within the iDrive Tone settings). My aftermarket amp Gain is about 30% with no bass boost and low pass filter set at 80Hz... hope this helps
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10-28-2012, 10:44 AM | #7 |
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With that type set-up, anything that can rattle will rattle. The sound waves bounce around in the trunk and excite the panels, so most of the energy from the sub goes to waste, and annoying rattles. There are only two set-ups that will minimize rattles, and maximize the amount of sound pressure in the cabin. Go look-up "corner-loading" and "infinite baffle". Both are far superior to your set-up.
Oh, and the words "secured" and "velcro" are mutually exclusive!
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amp, rattle, subwoofer |
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