2008 128i 5 year history

[Pkaia524]

For all of the "normal" 1 Series owners who don't lower/chip/big brake their car here's a short update on a DD 128i: Car is 6MT, only option is a sunroof. Bought the car with 35K miles in 11/2011; car now has 88K miles on 4/2013.

Maintenance performed:
Oil changed every 7500 miles- Valvoline Syntech 5W-30
Tires rotated every 7500 miles.
CAF changed every 15K miles
Air filter changed at 35K and 60K
OEM Coolant and OEM brake fluid changed 11/2011
Rear diff fluid changed at 35K and 60 K - Redline 75W-90
MT fluid changed at 40K and 70K - Redline MTl
Serpentine belt and spark plugs changed at 60K
Front pads /rotors replaced at 87K for the first time. Meyer rotors/Textar pads.
All work DIY except serpentine belt/plugs

Tires have not be replaced since I bought the car, and probably still have 15-20K tread left.

No mechanical issues with the car. Have not performed any suspension alignments or replacements.

Total cost for all maintenance - $989.

The point of this is the reliability of the car IF you maintain it AND you generally assume BMW engineers know more than yourself you let the car be. My track car is a SpecE30 so I leave all aftermarket parts selections for that purpose.

[Black128i]

That's great news, and thanks for posting. My 2009 128i coupe has also been very reliable, although I have been following the recommended maintenance schedule until now.

Good luck, and I expect you will have many more trouble free miles with the maintenance schedule you have been following.

[Black128i]

I forgot to mention I have 48K miles with no significant issues.

[Greenkirby21]

wow your tires last you a longggggg time.
I went through my RFT in 15k

[rori zahr]

Is rotating tires a must do maintenance routine? My dealer never did that to my car nor asked me or advised me to do it! Car has almost 100,000 km now, changed tires 30,000 km ago to the new Bridgistone RFTs but no rotation on the new ones either. Should I do that or it's too late?

[vertebra]

Great! But...did you enjoy it?


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[zoomnad]

Nice to know because BMW parts are costly. BUT I have never had a car I didn't mod. I am going to follow Greenkirby21 lead and do the things he did.Well some of them anyway! My BMW is WAY to quiet my taste, to high, and I do not like chrome! RFT are a pain in the ass to say the least. With all that said, it is your ride and thanks for the report.

[pdisher]

Curious as to the scheme you used to rotate tires.

Seems to me there are several arguments as to method based on front drive vs. rear drive.

[Pkaia524]

To answer a few of the questions:

1) I suggest rotating the tires. BMW doesn't recommend it. But my tires were on the car when I bought it, I now have 55K on them with tread left. Proof is in the pudding.
2) forgot to mention I always run my tires 2 PSI high. Why? A slightly stiffer sidewall, and I have a margin for normal air loss.
3). Yes, I have enjoyed the car, probably something a 135er doesn't understand . Why? There's a saying on the track: "Straights are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers." Sure, I can always purchase a car with more horsepower. But there isn't a lot of skill in putting your right foot down. But this car is a well balanced vehicle in stock form, a comfortable cruiser (I drive 150 miles a day), and yet can turn relatively well. Not as well as my SpecE30 but two cars built for two differntly purposes.

I know there are many cars that can outperform this vehicle on the test track. But how often (in Atlanta) are you testing the vehicle's limits? Unless you are t-braking before every exit ramp ang hearing the tires sing (or flashing the DTC light) as you go around the cloverleaf, this bottom of the line BMW is all you need, IMHO.

[Pkaia524]

Tire rotation - RF to LR. LF to RR. RR to RF. LR to LF.

[Pkaia524]

Also forgot to mention the RFTs were not on the car when I purchased it. If they were i would have swapped them for normal tires.

I do not have a spare or a pump. Since I drive the Northeast Corridor and have AAA I think I can survive a flat.

Of course all of you know by writing this post my car will either not start tomorrow morning or I will have a flat by Friday.

[WGScales]

This is pretty consistent with my experience. I've had 3 E46s and this 128i (Step, Premium & Sport) for the past 2 years. All have been utterly reliable with little or no repairs. This 128i is the best by far - zero repairs. Just routine maintenance and new tires at 19K. Ill probably switch to non-RFT next.

[TheSt|G]

My RFT's lasted 5k miles.

I think we have different driving styles.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

My RFT's lasted 5k miles.

I think we have different driving styles.

My RFT's lasted 88 miles

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

My RFT's lasted 88 miles

Lucky.

I was busy with work and didn't have time to look into who made good wheels for the 128i for quite a bit.

[631twentyeighteye]

I kind of miss my runflats.. Only because I could drift all i wanted with those since i didn't care about them what so ever

[FIRST1]

Originally Posted by Pkaia524

3). Yes, I have enjoyed the car, probably something a 135er doesn't understand . Why? There's a saying on the track: "Straights are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers." Sure, I can always purchase a car with more horsepower. But there isn't a lot of skill in putting your right foot down.

Serious question: Does the 128i handle (turn) better than a 135i?

[maupineda]

Originally Posted by FIRST1

Serious question: Does the 128i handle (turn) better than a 135i?

They will say yes because the engine is lighter, but... honestly?... same thing but with a lot more power. to me it seems the 135i could even be a bit of a handful because of that... which may even be funnier... this coming from a 130i owner!!!

Although I am a NA nut I sometimes do not understand the hate between 135i and 1xxi owners.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by FIRST1

Serious question: Does the 128i handle (turn) better than a 135i?

First, handling and turning ability are two separate things. Handling is the ability of the car to transmit information to the driver through the control surfaces. The steering feel advantage of hydraulic over electric power steering is a perfect example of that.

That said, yes the 128i does turn better. Weight the is the enemy of everything in terms of performance, and given equal specs otherwise, the car that weighs 250lbs less will perform better through the turns.

[PA135i]

Your maintenance costs are good because of DIY, but still low. I'd like to see a 5 year 135i maintenance history. My costs have all been paid by warranty, minus tires and extra oil services.

[TMR013]

Originally Posted by maupineda

I sometimes do not understand the hate between 135i and 1xxi owners.

Honestly anybody out there who even shows the slightest hate on this subject is an idiot.

[ozinaldo]

Originally Posted by Pkaia524

Also forgot to mention the RFTs were not on the car when I purchased it. If they were i would have swapped them for normal tires.

I do not have a spare or a pump. Since I drive the Northeast Corridor and have AAA I think I can survive a flat.

Of course all of you know by writing this post my car will either not start tomorrow morning or I will have a flat by Friday.

Great report And I agree that your engine is very trouble free (owned a E90 330i M Sport before) and perfect for a perspective of a long ownership. I myself was thinking about buying a tailored-to-my-liking 2011 Z4 30i, manual (Euro version) thinking that it should drive best (for that chassis) among Z4 engine options but it was 2-3 years ago and I just couldn't pass a chance to buy the 1M instead which also outweighted a third option I was considering, a Porsche Boxster Spyder.

A question: What about fuel filter, you think it is just OK to keep it as long as everything seems working fine? This is a relatively grey area, so would like to hear what you think about that. I myself think that DI turbo engines should change it more often as well as people who live and drive in places with questionable gas quality.