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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N52 - TB Issue - Gas Pedal Not Working



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      03-20-2024, 01:42 AM   #1
helpmybaby
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N52 - TB Issue - Gas Pedal Not Working

Hi all,
I recently replaced the starter on my '08 328i (N52 engine, automatic). The vehicle had been sitting unrevived for 5 months (the starter went out in Aug 2023). This week, I was able to successfully replace the battery and starter.
When replacing the starter, I removed the throttle body and disconnected the cable (I learned later this isn't necessary).
The car starts, but the accelerator does not work, meaning I can't drive it. The idle will fluctuate rapidly between ~500-1500 RPM in park, and in drive/reverse, the vehicle will stand steady just below 1000 RPM and will move, but the accelerator pedal is unresponsive in all gears. The engine fan will go full blast within a minute of starting.
When I last drove the car, I had been experiencing issues with the speakers not working and frequently crackling, even with the car completely off. Aside from that, I am unaware of other electrical issues.

The codes I pulled (present and stored via Bimmerlink): A10A, 2A31, 2CFB, 2A47, 2D1D, 2D07, 2D09, 2EE0, 2EF7 (code has been around for a few years), 5817, 5E19, 9CC0, 9CBF. There are other codes not related to engine electronics that I left out but could provide - I doubt they are correlated to this issue.

I'm confident I replaced everything as to how it was, aside from a new starter and intake manifold gaskets. Looking for advice and I appreciate your time.
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      03-20-2024, 02:51 AM   #2
PhaceN52
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2A31 points to the eccentric shaft sensor that's indeed correlated with the throttle response since it's valvetronic controlled in our cars, do you have oil in that connector?
Double check the connection on the throttle body too

edit: you can try to disconnect the ESS and see if you have throttle back, since it puts valvetronic in full lift emergency mode and it uses the throttle body instead of varying the lift

Last edited by PhaceN52; 03-20-2024 at 06:56 AM..
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      03-22-2024, 05:45 PM   #3
chris55552
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Probably not much help but I do know those pedals are simple to remove and replace. I added a dinan throttle booster to my x3 it made a suprising difference.
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      03-27-2024, 09:09 AM   #4
Raimund
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helpmybaby View Post
Hi all,
I recently replaced the starter on my '08 328i (N52 engine, automatic). The vehicle had been sitting unrevived for 5 months (the starter went out in Aug 2023). This week, I was able to successfully replace the battery and starter.
When replacing the starter, I removed the throttle body and disconnected the cable (I learned later this isn't necessary).
The car starts, but the accelerator does not work, meaning I can't drive it. The idle will fluctuate rapidly between ~500-1500 RPM in park, and in drive/reverse, the vehicle will stand steady just below 1000 RPM and will move, but the accelerator pedal is unresponsive in all gears. The engine fan will go full blast within a minute of starting.
When I last drove the car, I had been experiencing issues with the speakers not working and frequently crackling, even with the car completely off. Aside from that, I am unaware of other electrical issues.

The codes I pulled (present and stored via Bimmerlink): A10A, 2A31, 2CFB, 2A47, 2D1D, 2D07, 2D09, 2EE0, 2EF7 (code has been around for a few years), 5817, 5E19, 9CC0, 9CBF. There are other codes not related to engine electronics that I left out but could provide - I doubt they are correlated to this issue.

I'm confident I replaced everything as to how it was, aside from a new starter and intake manifold gaskets. Looking for advice and I appreciate your time.

I just had the same issue and after doing all of the diagnostic steps on ISTA it turned out to be a short in the maf connector sending voltage back to the DME which sent it to the pedal triggering a 2d1d code.


My thoughts would be:
Something is unplugged
Something is shorted


Check voltage at the pedal, pin 1 ground and 5 voltage ref should have about 4.8-5.2v across them.
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