[wheela]

Originally Posted by pwns

UPDATE:

Sad day today. I ordered that gasket and it was the wrong one - smaller in diameter unfortunately.

While I was down there, I noticed another pipe that is very damaged (see image). Smoke could have been coming from there during my smoke test as well, but maybe I didn't notice since its right below the other leak.

Is the cracked part this?:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vrsf-par...10901020e~vrf/

*EDIT*
sorry the pictures are massive - I don't think I can resize them here lol

Oh no, was that #29 in the picture that you ordered? It looks like you recieved the gasket that goes on the other side on the inlet #15 (that mates with the turbo). Do you still have the packaging to double-check what p/n they sent you?

That damaged peice is what people call the boost pipe (#16 in the picture) The part you linked is an aftermarket version vs. OEM. Nice that it's aluminum, but I see it doesn't have the hump hose on the outet that mates to the intercooler inlet. I'm still on my original oem boost pipe, so I'm not sure if you can swap the hump hose part of the damaged boost pipe on your car over to that one or not? Perhaps somebody else here knows? For sure an oem one would fit without issue. People don't generally have issues with the boost pipe failing like they do with the charge pipe that connects to the throttle body. But clearly yours failed.

How does your charge pipe connection to the throttlebody look? That's usually what fails.

Oh yeah, it probably goes without saying, but that damaged pipe looks like the smoking gun for your boost issue. I bet the smoke you saw before was actually coming from here. Still be good to check for other leaks once you fix this, but hopefully that resolves your issue.

[pwns]

Originally Posted by wheela

Oh no, was that #29 in the picture that you ordered? It looks like you recieved the gasket that goes on the other side on the inlet #15 (that mates with the turbo). Do you still have the packaging to double-check what p/n they sent you?

That damaged peice is what people call the boost pipe (#16 in the picture) The part you linked is an aftermarket version vs. OEM. Nice that it's aluminum, but I see it doesn't have the hump hose on the outet that mates to the intercooler inlet. I'm still on my original oem boost pipe, so I'm not sure if you can swap the hump hose part of the damaged boost pipe on your car over to that one or not? Perhaps somebody else here knows? For sure an oem one would fit without issue. People don't generally have issues with the boost pipe failing like they do with the charge pipe that connects to the throttle body. But clearly yours failed.

How does your charge pipe connection to the throttlebody look? That's usually what fails.

Oh yeah, it probably goes without saying, but that damaged pipe looks like the smoking gun for your boost issue. I bet the smoke you saw before was actually coming from here. Still be good to check for other leaks once you fix this, but hopefully that resolves your issue.

Yeah look like I've ordered the wrong one. Dumb mistake..

The boost pipe I've sent should actually come with a hose as I see on other websites.

For the charge pipe - I've gone ahead and installed an ECS one today.

[pwns]

Update:

I've found all the parts needed - They've been ordered.

Car should be back on road next week hopefully......I'll keep y'all updated

:'(

[OMEGA412]

It's a little hard to see, but yeah that looks like your turbo outlet charge pipe that connects into your intercooler, if there's a crack there that's going to be a huge boost leak. And yeah you ordered the right part. Replace that and you should be good to go

[wrevilo]

Any update on this thread? I also have some air and boost leaks in that area that I need to get sorted!

[pwns]

Originally Posted by wrevilo

Any update on this thread? I also have some air and boost leaks in that area I need get sorted!

Replaced that cracked pipe, replace that gasket, replaced my air intake back to OEM, replaced MAF sensor.

Did smoke leak test again and it was all good, no leaks.

BUT still not hitting target boost…I’m dropping the car off at a good BMW mechanic in a couple days. I’ll keep you updated.

[wrevilo]

I'll be interested to hear any outcome. I will also post my updates when I am able.

My leaks require replacement of parts 10, 15 and 16. I am also considering spending a silly amount of money on some intake parts.

[pwns]

Originally Posted by wrevilo

I'll be interested to hear any outcome. I will also post my updates when I am able.

My leaks require replacement of parts 10, 15 and 16. I am also considering spending a silly amount of money on some intake parts.

Yeah that’s pretty much what I had to replace.

I’ve never seen that hose you linked - wish I would have ordered that!

If I were you I’d stay on OEM air intake - there’s plenty of threads stating that aftermarket CAE’s cause the car to run funny and have weird idles. Might have been same issue with me. I bought a used OEM intake and installed it.

I would just upgrade the boost pipe since you’re replacing it and get a charge pipe. I’d also do intercooler, like I did since I was already there. This will bring you to stage 1+. All that’s missing is a downpipe for stage 2,2+.

Keep up updated with your journey as well!

[wrevilo]

Thanks, I will continue to update.

I'll stay with the stock intake, but it might make sense to replace the section from the intake to the turbo as per the part I linked to. However, it is a lot of money and part 16 isn't cheap either! I might just live with replacing the gaskets and clamps along with part 16 to keep costs down. I have been unable to find an aftermarket replacement for part 16 so far.

I have already upgraded the charge pipe and am at MHD stage 1. I wouldn't mind doing the intercooler, but after just having replaced the HPFP, LPFP and LFPF filter/regulator my wallet is a lot lighter, and I need to replace the sensor on the HP fuel rail too!

[Malteser_wfj]

For what it's worth I'm getting 2BC0 and my charge pipe is slightly fractured and cracked at the throttle body side so have ordered a metal replacement which I should have fitted next week.

If this solves my 2BC0 I'll update and let you know. (2012 E92 N55 also with a rebuilt engine & reused stock turbo on 120k miles)

I've also ordered the following o-rings to change as well:

13.71.7.568.031
11.31.7.791.469
11.61.7.791.470

I don't have MHD so don't have any logs to compare info unfortunately.

[Reed3907]

Originally Posted by Malteser_wfj

For what it's worth I'm getting 2BC0 and my charge pipe is slightly fractured and cracked at the throttle body side so have ordered a metal replacement which I should have fitted next week.

If this solves my 2BC0 I'll update and let you know. (2012 E92 N55 also with a rebuilt engine & reused stock turbo on 120k miles)

I've also ordered the following o-rings to change as well:

13.71.7.568.031
11.31.7.791.469
11.61.7.791.470

I don't have MHD so don't have any logs to compare info unfortunately.

If that’s what your charge pipe was like the entire time that’s a HUGE problem and was 100% ur problem the whole time haha. I blew mine to pieces 2 days into ownership lol.

[pwns]

Originally Posted by wheela

Oh no, was that #29 in the picture that you ordered? It looks like you recieved the gasket that goes on the other side on the inlet #15 (that mates with the turbo). Do you still have the packaging to double-check what p/n they sent you?

That damaged peice is what people call the boost pipe (#16 in the picture) The part you linked is an aftermarket version vs. OEM. Nice that it's aluminum, but I see it doesn't have the hump hose on the outet that mates to the intercooler inlet. I'm still on my original oem boost pipe, so I'm not sure if you can swap the hump hose part of the damaged boost pipe on your car over to that one or not? Perhaps somebody else here knows? For sure an oem one would fit without issue. People don't generally have issues with the boost pipe failing like they do with the charge pipe that connects to the throttle body. But clearly yours failed.

How does your charge pipe connection to the throttlebody look? That's usually what fails.

Oh yeah, it probably goes without saying, but that damaged pipe looks like the smoking gun for your boost issue. I bet the smoke you saw before was actually coming from here. Still be good to check for other leaks once you fix this, but hopefully that resolves your issue.

**UPDATE**

-Cracked TIC pipe replaced with upgraded aluminum one
-Charge pipe installed
-Intercooler installed
-OEM air intake installed instead of BMS Intake
-HPFP,LPFP replaced
-MAF sensor replaced
-MAP sensor cleaned thoroughly
-Boost solenoid replaced (pressure converter)
-Crankcase vent hose replaced (looked old and taped together)
-No apparent leak showing from DIY smoke test. (Does system need to be pressurized?)


One random drive I was randomly hitting decent boost, then never hit again. Which made me think the boost solenoid was acting up the whole time. Replaced it, but did not solve my issue.
LOG: https://datazap.me/u/pwns/hit-boost?log=0&data=4-14


*Currently after all those fixes, I still have rough idle, and no boost.
RECENT LOG: https://datazap.me/u/pwns/still-no-b...og=0&data=4-14
My LTFT seems a lot better?

Do you think my MAP sensor needs to be replaced? I've read it could cause lean issues although I have cleaned it thoroughly.

Could it be coil issues? Spark plugs? Although my issue is a lean code?

Thanks

[Malteser_wfj]

I'm waiting for my MHD adapter to be delivered then I'll take some logs as the new charge pipe didn't cure my 2BC0 and I don't think I'm hitting full boost most of the time.

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by pwns

**UPDATE**

-Cracked TIC pipe replaced with upgraded aluminum one
-Charge pipe installed
-Intercooler installed
-OEM air intake installed instead of BMS Intake
-HPFP,LPFP replaced
-MAF sensor replaced
-MAP sensor cleaned thoroughly
-Boost solenoid replaced (pressure converter)
-Crankcase vent hose replaced (looked old and taped together)
-No apparent leak showing from DIY smoke test. (Does system need to be pressurized?)


One random drive I was randomly hitting decent boost, then never hit again. Which made me think the boost solenoid was acting up the whole time. Replaced it, but did not solve my issue.
LOG: https://datazap.me/u/pwns/hit-boost?log=0&data=4-14


*Currently after all those fixes, I still have rough idle, and no boost.
RECENT LOG: https://datazap.me/u/pwns/still-no-b...og=0&data=4-14
My LTFT seems a lot better?

Do you think my MAP sensor needs to be replaced? I've read it could cause lean issues although I have cleaned it thoroughly.

Could it be coil issues? Spark plugs? Although my issue is a lean code?

Thanks

Hello Canadian fellow!

Decent compared to your other logs but still horrible unfortunately. It looks like it's taking a while to build boost and won't go past 10.

Have you taken a look at your Wastegate Actuator? Or have you been hearing weird rattles? I suggest you take a look at it and even connect a manual vacuum pump directly to it and see if you can actuate it.

I used to be Stage 2+ and randomly during last spring noticed that my car was slow. Took a log and I was way off boost. Could also hear weird rattling when I let of gas. I checked the usual chargepipe and other connections for major leaks but nothing. Next step was to test my wastegate but I didn't even need to. Quick peak at it and well I'll le the pictures speak for themself.

I hope for your sake that the actuator is not rusted off like mine, because it was near impossible to change while not removing anything major. Or maybe I just suck.

[pwns]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Hello Canadian fellow!

Decent compared to your other logs but still horrible unfortunately. It looks like it's taking a while to build boost and won't go past 10.

Have you taken a look at your Wastegate Actuator? Or have you been hearing weird rattles? I suggest you take a look at it and even connect a manual vacuum pump directly to it and see if you can actuate it.

I used to be Stage 2+ and randomly during last spring noticed that my car was slow. Took a log and I was way off boost. Could also hear weird rattling when I let of gas. I checked the usual chargepipe and other connections for major leaks but nothing. Next step was to test my wastegate but I didn't even need to. Quick peak at it and well I'll le the pictures speak for themself.

I hope for your sake that the actuator is not rusted off like mine, because it was near impossible to change while not removing anything major. Or maybe I just suck.

Hey neighbour!

WOW holy shit, I'll def take a look at my actuator - but I did just find out that I have the wrong injectors in from the rebuild lol. They put in EU6 injectors when my DME is programmed for EU5.

I'll keep yall updated..

[wheela]

Originally Posted by pwns

Hey neighbour!

WOW holy shit, I'll def take a look at my actuator - but I did just find out that I have the wrong injectors in from the rebuild lol. They put in EU6 injectors when my DME is programmed for EU5.

I'll keep yall updated..

Holy crap, they put the wrong injectors in??? That explains the persisting lean codes... Not sure about your boost, I wonder if the DME will limit boost when lean codes are present? It would make sense to protect the engine... It will be intersting to see how everything performs once you get your injector issue sorted. Thanks for the update!

[pwns]

Originally Posted by wheela

Holy crap, they put the wrong injectors in??? That explains the persisting lean codes... Not sure about your boost, I wonder if the DME will limit boost when lean codes are present? It would make sense to protect the engine... It will be intersting to see how everything performs once you get your injector issue sorted. Thanks for the update!

I know right!!

It sucks to pay for injectors, but I’m exited to finally have it running.

Would you know if all PWG N55’s use EU5 injectors?

[wheela]

Originally Posted by pwns

I know right!!

It sucks to pay for injectors, but I’m exited to finally have it running.

Would you know if all PWG N55’s use EU5 injectors?

That I don't know. I just saw your other thread, the plot thickens... I hope you're able to get this sorted out.

[Malteser_wfj]

Cleared my 2BC0 and 2C42 and took these logs:

My first time logging and I think they look good for a standard car with no remap. Not sure when coils were last changed but they're Delphi

https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...22-23-24-25-26
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07030...ta=3-8-9-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...data=2-3-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...ta=2-3-4-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...a=2-3-10-18-20

I've recently moved so am still finding the suitable roads to do a full 6.5krpm pull in 3rd and then into 4th (car is manual).

I'm fairly new to the N55 too so can only assume the difference between my pedal being 100% and the throttle being at 100% is because of valvetronic? But thankfully I'm fitting boost and lambda target so I'm happy for now

[wheela]

Originally Posted by Malteser_wfj

Cleared my 2BC0 and 2C42 and took these logs:

My first time logging and I think they look good for a standard car with no remap. Not sure when coils were last changed but they're Delphi

https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...22-23-24-25-26
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07030...ta=3-8-9-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...data=2-3-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...ta=2-3-4-18-20
https://datazap.me/u/lemansn55/07032...a=2-3-10-18-20

I've recently moved so am still finding the suitable roads to do a full 6.5krpm pull in 3rd and then into 4th (car is manual).

I'm fairly new to the N55 too so can only assume the difference between my pedal being 100% and the throttle being at 100% is because of valvetronic? But thankfully I'm fitting boost and lambda target so I'm happy for now

That disparity between pedal position and throttle position is due to the relatively small load request on the stock rom and how the stock tune is set up. Pedal position is really a load/torque request (0 = no load, 100% = whatever the max load/torque associated with the tune); it's not a direct throttle request. At 100% pedal position, the stock tune calls for 120-ish load%. The DME doesn't believe you need the throttle 100% open at that boost level to hit the desired load request, which is why you don't see it at 100%. A lot of aftermarket tunes are set up so that the throttle plate is 100% open when the pedal position is at 100%.

Edit: Load% is mass airflow normalized as a percentage of cylinder fill. The tune has a table that correlates torque to load% vs. RPM. There are also modifiers thar adjust the estimated torque per load & rpm based on AFR, etc.

[Dan1nugs]

Having similar issues on my N55e 6MT. The engine just got a rebuild but stayed with stock turbo, I'm making little to no boost, could someone take a quick look at my data log to see if there's a dead give away or any other concern that I have no knowledge of? Would be greatly appreciated!

https://datazap.me/u/dan1nugs/2011-e...og=0&data=3-13

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by Dan1nugs

Having similar issues on my N55e 6MT. The engine just got a rebuild but stayed with stock turbo, I'm making little to no boost, could someone take a quick look at my data log to see if there's a dead give away or any other concern that I have no knowledge of? Would be greatly appreciated!

https://datazap.me/u/dan1nugs/2011-e...og=0&data=3-13

You are building no boost at all, check your major connections (turbo to intercooler, intercooler to lower charge pipe, charge pipe to throttle body)for something obvious. If you are still on stock charge pipe, make sure it isn't cracked.

I saw in another thread you mentioned your wastegate was rattling. Try to check it from under the car and see if it still looks in good shape or if it's cooked, like in the pictures I posted above.