EDC Shock Stuck in MSport?

[gillara]

Hi folks,

I tried searching through the forum but unable to find similar issues like mine.

This morning I got an EDC malfunction light. I double checked plugs on all four corners but everything looked normal. After taking a step back I can see that my rear passenger side it sitting lower.

I plugged in my scanner to check codes but surprisingly the scanner did not find anything wrong with the EDC.

My last recourse it to jack up the car and remove the wheel to physically see the shock and check for anything out of the ordinary.

Could my EDC shock have simply died? The car currently has 100k miles. In addition, I barely drive the car and is usually parked in an uneven driveway. Could this be an issue?

Thanks for the help.


RESOLVED
EDC Module was burnt. Not sure what caused this issue.
Unplugged battery.
Installed new EDC Module.
Waited 30 min
Reinstalled battery.
EDC fault still showed on dash.
Went for a short drive.
EDC fault went away.

[Brandoch]

Did you check with a BMW specific scanner?

[M3SQRD]

The shocks/dampers do not support the weight of your car. It’s the springs that support the static weight and dynamic weight transfer when cornering/braking. A blown damper will have zero effect on ride height.

Do you have a generic code reader (e.g., get Pxxxx codes) or a BMW-specific code reader? Was the edc malfunction shown on Idrive or dash? Do you recall what it said?

Is the car still stuck in Sport mode? When a damper fails, the system sets edc to its zero voltage setting which is sport (or valves are in their fully closed position). If it’s still stuck in sport then the car still thinks the edc has an issue. I’m certain if the edc module failed and/or an edc accelerometer failed it would throw fault codes. If you haven’t used a BMW-code reader then that should be your next step.

[gillara]

Hi M3SQRD and Brandch thank you for your input.

I used my generic obd scanner to check codes however, the scanner does not seem to pick up the EDC fault errors. When clearing all adaptations the code still pops up.

I had some spare EDC shocks from a lower milage car and installed those (double checked EDC terminals are secure as well) however EDC malfunction still remains.

Im tempted to purchase a new EDC module but wanted to ask if there is anything else I am missing?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by gillara

Hi M3SQRD and Brandch thank you for your input.

I used my generic obd scanner to check codes however, the scanner does not seem to pick up the EDC fault errors. When clearing all adaptations the code still pops up.

I had some spare EDC shocks from a lower milage car and installed those (double checked EDC terminals are secure as well) however EDC malfunction still remains.

Im tempted to purchase a new EDC module but wanted to ask if there is anything else I am missing?

Do any of the auto parts stores in your area allow you to use their obd2 scanner for free? Some do in my area. If they do then I’d suggest doing this before buying a new edc module.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by gillara

Hi M3SQRD and Brandch thank you for your input.

I used my generic obd scanner to check codes however, the scanner does not seem to pick up the EDC fault errors. When clearing all adaptations the code still pops up.

I had some spare EDC shocks from a lower milage car and installed those (double checked EDC terminals are secure as well) however EDC malfunction still remains.

Im tempted to purchase a new EDC module but wanted to ask if there is anything else I am missing?

Prior buying another EDC module you can measure the current output to confirm whether its broken or not. Very easy set up using a cheap ampere meter on one if the front shocks (+ long wires to get it back through your window to read.). I've posted a bit more details + a video, let me know if you don't find it and I'll give it a dig.

Edit: Mentioned video further down in this thread: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2006874

Ps. Its one output/axle front/rear hence reading current on one side means the other also is fine. I would be surprised if the rear output could be broken while front works.

[gillara]

Hello Helmsman!

I've been reading about your encounter with an EDC issue back in 2017 and found it quite enlightening!

After replacing the shocks and ensuring the terminals were connected, I suspected the EDC Module might be the problem. My suspicion was confirmed when I found that the EDC module had burned out, evidenced by one of the pins being completely charred, as shown in the photo below. Consequently, I purchased and installed a new module.

However, I'm now facing a challenge with clearing the EDC malfunction code. Despite using Bimmerlink, I haven’t been successful in clearing the code or retrieving any diagnostics. The only code displayed through the Basic Controls (BC button) is "CC-ID 180."

Do you have any suggestions?

Additionally, I noticed that the EDC button lights up and engages when I press the M button, which it didn't do before. But once activated, the EDC cannot be turned off or adjusted.

[gillara]

Solved!

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by gillara

Hello Helmsman!

I've been reading about your encounter with an EDC issue back in 2017 and found it quite enlightening!

After replacing the shocks and ensuring the terminals were connected, I suspected the EDC Module might be the problem. My suspicion was confirmed when I found that the EDC module had burned out, evidenced by one of the pins being completely charred, as shown in the photo below. Consequently, I purchased and installed a new module.

However, I'm now facing a challenge with clearing the EDC malfunction code. Despite using Bimmerlink, I haven’t been successful in clearing the code or retrieving any diagnostics. The only code displayed through the Basic Controls (BC button) is "CC-ID 180."

Do you have any suggestions?

Additionally, I noticed that the EDC button lights up and engages when I press the M button, which it didn't do before. But once activated, the EDC cannot be turned off or adjusted.

Hi man! Didnt see you post until now ("quote" feature needed to get attention). Wow, the connector looks crap. Seems weird it should have been burned that bad as only 2 amps are available. Is your car dry back there, I would guess this is corrosion.