Bang and Oufson top speaker dash removal?

[csajap]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Sorry...no I did not...but here is the text version.

The anodized aluminum speaker cover must be removed first by using a plastic pry tool, and lift at all 4 corners. Once they are all disengaged, lift the anodized aluminum speaker cover straight up until you've cleared the clips. This will expose the mid-range speaker and top of the tweeter horn.

Using the same pry tool us it top pop off the large black plastic trim on the left and right side. It uses the same clips as those on the anodized aluminum speaker cover, so don't lift up until all clips are disengaged.

There are four T-20 screws, two at the very front by the tweeter, and one each side in the rear by the windshield...the front two screws will be very easy to remove, but you may need a small ratchet on the T-20 tip to remove the rear two screws.

Using the same pry tool, us it to lift up the speaker from the front to the rear. The front of the speaker will have a wiring harness that plugs into the front LED that may get in the way lifting up the front. On the right side of the speaker is the main harness connector that must be unplugged, but one done, you should be able to lift out the whole speaker assembly.

If pictures are required...willing to post, but only if really required.

[EDIT: If you are going from an H-K center dash speaker to the B&O, you must cut the dashboard...and there is a Youtube video]

Hi can you send me the video?
Thank you so much

[M_Bimmer]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOsiHNMwda0

[F07user]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The center BMW B&O connector is designated as E201:

Pin 1: GND on chassis ground comb location Z10.13B (Brown Wire)
Pin 2: LED (+) from B&O Amp Pin 2 (Purple/Yellow)
Pin 3: Motor (+) from B&O Amp Pin 16 (Yellow/Red)
Pin 4: +12VDC from JBE Connector Z7.2B Pin 4 (Red/Brown) = Fuse F26
Pin 5: Tweeter(-) from B&O Amp (Grey/White)
Pin 6: Tweeter(+) from B&O Amp (Grey/Black)
Pin 7: Midrange(-) from B&O Amp (Black/White)
Pin 8: Midrange(+) from B&O Amp (Black/Brown)
Pin 9: Not Connected
Pin 10: Not Connected

Sorry to revive this old thread, I am doing this myself and I am completely new to his forum. I noticed the E201 connector on the B&O speaker has 10 pins allocated in the E201 connector, are you sure the pin 9 & 10 is unused?
My car is equipped with HK system.

[dxdenis02]

Hi M_Bimmer

Can you post pinouts on 32 pin connector of B&O amplifier
And pinouts of dual mic for Bluetooth and real time amp noise

I am trying to do full BO retrofit from HK 688

Should be add 32 pin, add mic, add thicker awg power/ground

But id like to know all pinouts

Appreciate your help

[solidsnake227]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

Based on the wiring on your A42.1B connector, it neither has HiFi nor Active Sound.....since your pin 13 isn't populated.

Maybe you could check to see if your radio still produces the "Radio_On" signal and you could populate a wire in slot 13.....

Also, this thread is on the F10 M5 forum and you're asking about the F15 X5...so I had to go back to all the previous posts and update to reflect the F15 and not the F10...similar systems, but their connectors references and wiring colors are slightly different....

Hello there and thank you for the info above and it helped me along doing my retrofit

I'm using OEM middle speaker, I was able to connect to pin 13 but the speaker goes up when I unlock the car, and it goes down after 60 second after locking the car, I have the HK on F01 2015 but F10 and F01 use same system as far as I know. is there a way to make it work when the radio turns and shuts down when the radio is off?
Thank you so much!

[thuzithanwn]

Originally Posted by solidsnake227

Hello there and thank you for the info above and it helped me along doing my retrofit

I'm using OEM middle speaker, I was able to connect to pin 13 but the speaker goes up when I unlock the car, and it goes down after 60 second after locking the car, I have the HK on F01 2015 but F10 and F01 use same system as far as I know. is there a way to make it work when the radio turns and shuts down when the radio is off?
Thank you so much!

You have tapped into 30B mate. You need to find 15N. Then it will go up when the ignition is on and close when it's off.

[Staszek]

I know this thread is old, but did you ever figure it out with the radio power? I would think there would be away to tap into the iDrive screen turning on or the climate control since they are only live when the car is on.

[Staszek]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

To access the Junction Box/Front Fuse panel (Z7)? Need to drop the passenger side bottom panel, which also has the knee airbag, and to the right of the glovebox, you will see the fuse panel...see picture below...

If on the other hand you are trying to get to the lighter harness in the center console, you may be able to quickly access it on the passenger side center console, after removing the lower carpet panel...else you will need to remove the top two center console pieces (two piece design - rear portion is the shifter, the front portion is the ash tray)

Can you help with the wiring for Rad On for an F06 M6. I assuming that I can run motor power, LED power and ground right to the three wires for the cigarette lighter (powerport).

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Staszek

Can you help with the wiring for Rad On for an F06 M6. I assuming that I can run motor power, LED power and ground right to the three wires for the cigarette lighter (powerport).

The "RAD_ON" signal is on pin 13, Connector A42*1B, which is the 40-pin, black connector shown in the figure label "2", below.

And if this pin is not populated, you can get a socket crimp it on to a 20 gauge wire and run it up to your B&O center speaker. If unpopulated, you will need to use BimmerCode or ESYS to code the "RAD_ON" to function. It might already be active and populated if you have active sound.

You can use any power source that runs off the Terminal 30B power rail, such as Fuse F119 in the Glovebox Fusebox, or the cigarette light, which too runs off the Terminal 30B power rail.

[Staszek]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

The "RAD_ON" signal is on pin 13, Connector A42*1B, which is the 40-pin, black connector shown in the figure label "2", below.

And if this pin is not populated, you can get a socket crimp it on to a 20 gauge wire and run it up to your B&O center speaker. If unpopulated, you will need to use BimmerCode or ESYS to code the "RAD_ON" to function. It might already be active and populated if you have active sound.

You can use any power source that runs off the Terminal 30B power rail, such as Fuse F119 in the Glovebox Fusebox, or the cigarette light, which too runs off the Terminal 30B power rail.

Thanks this is helpful so in terms of wiring to make sure I have it correct.

Pin 1: GND on chassis ground comb location Z10.13B (Brown Wire) Can use any ground, probably use the lighter ground
Pin 2: LED (+) from B&O Amp Pin 2 (Purple/Yellow) I can connect to any positive LED probably going to use the lighter LED
Pin 3: Motor (+) from B&O Amp Pin 16 (Yellow/Red) This is the Rad ON PIN 13 correct?
Pin 4: +12VDC from JBE Connector Z7.2B Pin 4 (Red/Brown) I can use terminal 30 off the fuse panel or connect to the power at the lighter as well for this one

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Staszek

Thanks this is helpful so in terms of wiring to make sure I have it correct.

1. Pin 1: GND on chassis = Can use any ground, probably use the lighter ground - Correct
2. Pin 2: LED (+) = I can connect to any positive LED probably going to use the lighter LED - This will work, but RAD_ON would be a better choice, but see Note 1 below for the best choice
3. Pin 3: Motor (+) = This is the Rad ON PIN 13 correct? Not recommended. See Note 1 below
4. Pin 4: +12VDC = I can use terminal 30 off the fuse panel or connect to the power at the lighter as well for this one - Correct

Note 1: A motor requires an initial surge Current, then tapers off. Not sure that the RAD_ON discrete signal from the head unit can source the motor surge Current from the internal FET. An LED? Yes, it's a low enough current value which the internal FET should handle since in some vehicle this signal has a fan-out drive capability of up to three other loads, one being the Active Sound ECU.

So how should you do it? Well, it depends on when you want the motor to come on. My suggestion is to use a micro DC relay ($9), 5th picture down provides the schematic/hookup diagram, and your speaker motor will be where it's labeled "device". There is enough room for this size of relay within the dash area, where the larger ones might be too big.

Use the RAD_ON line to drive the lower current side of the relay, and your electrical socket to power the high current side of the relay. This will then work like the factory, where the motor lifts up when the radio is on, and lower when the radio is off.

Cheers.

[Staszek]

Originally Posted by M_Bimmer

1. Pin 1: GND on chassis = Can use any ground, probably use the lighter ground - Correct
2. Pin 2: LED (+) = I can connect to any positive LED probably going to use the lighter LED - This will work, but RAD_ON would be a better choice, but see Note 1 below for the best choice
3. Pin 3: Motor (+) = This is the Rad ON PIN 13 correct? Not recommended. See Note 1 below
4. Pin 4: +12VDC = I can use terminal 30 off the fuse panel or connect to the power at the lighter as well for this one - Correct

Note 1: A motor requires an initial surge Current, then tapers off. Not sure that the RAD_ON discrete signal from the head unit can source the motor surge Current from the internal FET. An LED? Yes, it's a low enough current value which the internal FET should handle since in some vehicle this signal has a fan-out drive capability of up to three other loads, one being the Active Sound ECU.

So how should you do it? Well, it depends on when you want the motor to come on. My suggestion is to use a micro DC relay ($9), 5th picture down provides the schematic/hookup diagram, and your speaker motor will be where it's labeled "device". There is enough room for this size of relay within the dash area, where the larger ones might be too big.

Use the RAD_ON line to drive the lower current side of the relay, and your electrical socket to power the high current side of the relay. This will then work like the factory, where the motor lifts up when the radio is on, and lower when the radio is off.

Cheers.

Very helpful, so something like this. Then I would connect Pin 4 to the same Term 30/Cig. And LED I could do RAD on, or connect to the LED power for the ashtray light which acts like the rest of the LEDs and comes on when the headlights come on.

[M5Rick]

Holy mackerel you need to be almost Einstein to work out the wiring and re-fit for that B&O centre dash speaker, glad I went HK.

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Staszek

Very helpful, so something like this. Then I would connect Pin 4 to the same Term 30/Cig. And LED I could do RAD on, or connect to the LED power for the ashtray light which acts like the rest of the LEDs and comes on when the headlights come on.

Your figure labeling is spot on...and to simply your wiring, the device ground can also share the same ground point as 86 on the relay.

Speaker LED Connection Options in order of suggested precedence:

1. Connected in parallel with the motor using the relay. Speaker LED will come on only when the speaker is in the "up" position. Not only is this an easier wiring option, this is how the LED works in the factory setup.
   
2. Straight to the lighter. Speaker LED will remain on in the open and closed position of the speaker, and as long as Terminal 30 voltage is energized, but this is not how the factory LED works.
   
3. Straight to the ambient lights, which the LED will only light up at night along with the other cabin LED lighting, but this is not how the factory LED works and the Speaker LED will not light up during the day. Not sure you'll really miss this.