|
|
03-08-2009, 06:21 PM | #1 |
Private First Class
16
Rep 148
Posts |
Installed AA Pulley this weekend... A few notes.
So me and my buddy installed the AA pulley this weekend. I won't say installation was smooth, but I won't blame AA for it - we didn't check belt routing first and getting it right sight-unseen turned out to be more of a PITA than we expected. The instructions were accurate but missing some details that I'd think other folks who want to DIY the install would like to know, so I'd pass along lessons learned.
I'm sorry no pictures, I wasn't thinking of doing a diy before I started. 1) Check belt routing BEFORE you pull off the belts. Make a diagram. 2) Although you won't need to pull off the undercarriage for disassembly, you WILL need it off at least to get the fan housing back installed - and that's assuming you drop *nothing* during the entire uninstall/reinstall, yeah right, so you'll need it off to get at the stuff you lost. The instructions say to pull off the undercarriage but not why. 3) When disassembling the undercarriage, the silver-colored nuts on ether side of the middle undercarriage part (2 per side, 4 total) are NOT to be removed - they're holding the tensioner wires in place. To get the undercarriage off pull all the screws on the underside of the front bumper and undercarriage, inside the front wheel wells, and the three holding it to the aluminum plate beneath the engine. You should be able to get the two 'cups' in front of each wheel off, and from there you can see the tensioner wires holding the middle undercarriage on. Follow the instructions for removal of these wires, which should free the undercarriage. (The instructions say only how to pull the tensioner wires, not where they are nor any warning about not trying to unbolt them from beneath) 4) When installing the new pulley the instructions say to torque the bolts to spec - not what the spec is (I understand why). We guesstimated about 10ft-lbs, maybe 12, but the key here is they're not that tight - do not overtighten (and do not take my word for it - if anyone knows the proper spec here please share! For all I know my pulley's about to fly off into space.). 5) The instructions say to pull off the idler pulley completely during belt removal. It *seems* like you don't have to, but it's definitely easier if you do. The bolt is looooooong and threaded all the way - you'll be twisting it for awhile. 6) It is tough to use standard wrenches/ratchets for relaxing the two belt tensioners. If you're doing it yourself (leaving you one-handed for other tasks) I'd recommend a long ratchet or use an extender to get you the extra leverage to hold it while you futz with the belt. This is particularly helpful for re-install. Wear gloves if you like your knuckles. 7) The fan housing is very fiddly to get back into place during reinstall. You have lots of hoses to clear on the sides, and make sure on the bottom it's not sitting on the hoses. It's best to get someone underneath guiding it down (wear goggles and watch your fingers!) while someone on top lowers it into place, that way the underneath-guy can clear the hoses and snap them back into their guides, as well as make sure the housing's lower two tabs slide back into their holders (you'll see what I mean). Finally, be careful you don't damage the radiator while you're wiggling the fan around. 8) It's not that hard, but for us it was time-consuming due to dumb mistakes. Some of them I hope I've documented here, others were just us being stupid (see: belt routing). |
03-08-2009, 08:48 PM | #2 |
yodog
197
Rep 5,025
Posts |
So, you notice any difference in power? If so, in what rpm range?
__________________
2009 E92 M3 | Alpine White | Black Extended | Advan RS | Turner Test Pipes | Dinan Axle-Back | OETuning | Eibach Springs | UUC SSK | VRS Front Lip | VRS Type I Diffuser | Matte Black | RPi Scoops | MS Filter | Yokohama AD08 | F1 Pinnacle Special Thanks: Gintani | OETuning | eAs |
Appreciate
0
|
03-09-2009, 01:09 PM | #3 |
Private First Class
16
Rep 148
Posts |
I've only given it a couple of spins around the block (so to speak), and to be honest it's tough to tell. I know that's not the cool thing to say when you spend a few bills, a few hours, and a few layers of flesh to make it happen but it's hard to notice 14ish hp in just street driving, for me anyway. I'm planning on getting it dyno'd next week.
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-16-2009, 12:17 PM | #5 |
Lieutenant Colonel
123
Rep 1,973
Posts |
Nice, maybe some updated instructions would be cool for future customers.
__________________
MDCT ... so you can drive and eat a hamburger at the same time. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-21-2009, 04:44 PM | #6 |
Enlisted Member
4
Rep 30
Posts |
Do you have a copy of the instructions you could email or fax me?
Did it come a double sided belt, like the factory one is? mine is a 09 M3 fyi..... |
Appreciate
0
|
06-05-2009, 04:00 PM | #9 |
Brigadier General
142
Rep 3,523
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-08-2009, 09:36 PM | #10 |
Second Lieutenant
2
Rep 221
Posts |
Installed mine today, although not an AA unit, but Turner's, I read whatever instructions I could find on here before started doing it. Two areas I spent most time in, removing/reinstalling the fan and removing/reinstalling the crank pulley. Fan was a bitch to come out, going back in wasn't too bad, just had to stand up and crawl under the car couple times to clip the hoses back on the fan. Crank pulley wasn't hard, just time consuming because I couldn't see where the bolts were located, once they were hand tightened, I torqued them down to about 20ft-lbs in a pattern like I torque down a wheel. Other than these, very straight forward. I used a torque wrench with 14mm socket to move the tension pulleys in case someone needs to know. If I rushed through the install, I know I could have it done in less than an hour, but I was very careful and didn't want to go over the whole thing again to make sure I did everything right, so it took me 1.5 hrs. Very enjoyable experience.
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|