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04-23-2014, 07:43 AM | #1 |
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M3 bits...
I am about to pull the trigger on a little over $1K on all of the M3 suspension bits. I just want to hear from everyone that its really worth it. I could either buy these parts or the ST coilover kit. Please give me some input ppl!!
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04-23-2014, 08:18 AM | #2 |
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I certainly think upgrading your suspension with M3 parts is worth it (not sure which M3 parts you are considering ordering since you didn't list them), but I also think at some point you will also want to upgrade the dampers/springs on the car. In my opinion the OEM dampers are the weakest link in the car's suspension.
So to answer your question, yes the M3 suspension parts are worth it, but so are upgraded dampers/springs/coilovers if you really want to transform the car's handling. I upgraded my suspension piece meal, starting with the front M3 parts, then dampers/springs and then finally the rear M3 suspension parts.
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04-23-2014, 08:59 AM | #3 | |
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1x BMW Control Arm Kit 5-Piece Front (M Upgrade) - TRW BMWMCAKIT $378.82 4x BMW Brake Disc Set Screw - Genuine BMW 34211161806 $4.72 2x BMW Subframe Bushing Rear - Genuine BMW 33312283382 $129.10 2x BMW Subframe Bushing Rear - Genuine BMW 33312283383 $145.10 1x BMW Control Arm Rear Right Upper (1M M3) - TRW 33322283546 $94.95 1x BMW Control Arm Rear Left Upper (1M M3) - TRW 33322283545 $94.95 1x BMW Control Arm Rear Right Upper (1M M3) - TRW 33322283548 $134.95 1x BMW Control Arm Rear Left Upper (1M M3) - TRW 33322283547 $134.95 2x BMW ABS Cable Bracket - Genuine BMW 34522283017 $23.10 Item Total: $1,140.64 Promotion (Loyalty Code 10% off $999): -$114.06 Shipping: $9.99 Order Total: $1,036.57 I think I got a pretty damn good deal too!! And like I said, I plan on installing the ST coilovers, StopTech rotors and Hawk pads at the same time. the only thing I am dreading to install is the subframe bushings... |
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04-23-2014, 09:07 AM | #4 |
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Just completed the M3 Front Control Arm/Tension Arm install on Saturday and had the car aligned yesterday. The difference is absolutely noticeable and totally worth it, and I really love how the car has responded to the change. Turn-in response is so much better, and steering/road feel has improved. I suspect that I will only enjoy it more as I get more seat time and push the car it harder through turns. For $350 shipped, I'm not sure if there is a better upgrade per dollar available.
Just an FYI: I also installed the Dinan Camber Plates at the same time so I gained about 1.4 degrees of camber and I am also on PSS tires with Whiteline RSFB's. Those mods together have transformed the car and I pretty sure I've yelled the phrase "These parts should be factory installed!!" on several occasions Also my alignment specs are as follows: Front: Camber: -2.0 Toe: -1/16" total toe out Caster: Max Rear Camber: -1.8 Toe: 1/8" total toe in
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04-23-2014, 09:25 AM | #6 | |
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04-23-2014, 09:34 AM | #7 |
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M3 control arms and Whiteline subframe insets would be a good compromise and easier on cost. You could then use the savings to pick up quality set of shocks and springs, ie Billstein B12's for $750. That puts you right around the $1100 mark on parts. M3 sway comes along classifieds pretty frequently so I'd hold out and buy used.
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04-23-2014, 09:37 AM | #8 | |
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04-23-2014, 09:37 AM | #9 |
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At a minimum, M3 subframe bushings are a must, so are front M3 control arms.
If you want another noticeable modification, get a Limited Slip Diff. Some affordable options (new player from the JDM scene) are coming up on this forum.
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04-23-2014, 11:04 AM | #10 | |
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they are 440.00 |
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04-23-2014, 11:07 AM | #11 | |
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04-23-2014, 11:10 AM | #12 |
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Thanks for the help man. And yes, I know who you are talking about in the JDM world. I have already be talking with them. I do not track my car so do you think I really need an LSD? I am FBO though.
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04-23-2014, 11:17 AM | #13 |
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Subframe bushing inserts are just that, polyurethane inserts that are placed inside the voids of the factory subframe bushings therefore adding stiffness to the factory set up:
The complete polyurethatne subframe bushings are what I have and they replace the entire factory unit. This requires pressing out the stock bushings and replacing them with the polyurethane variants (no need for a press to install unlike the m3 ones). This is the stiffer option, yet I did not notice an increase in NVH with this setup, just more confidence in the rear end. FWIW, as far as coilovers go, this is going to be my choice: http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...Details978.cfm That price includes camber plates, you can choose to remove them which brings the price down about $400
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04-23-2014, 11:29 AM | #14 | |
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04-23-2014, 12:28 PM | #15 | |
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Yes M3 bushings are great, in fact some view it as a Godsend but I just can't justify the cost/labor/time involved in the swap. A 1-2 hour insert job vs 6-8 hour bushing swap is a no brainer for me. Worst case if the inserts don't do it for you, $50 down the drain and you go with the M3 bushings after all. If you're already near high mileage (80k and above), then I would consider the M3 bushings. Hard to say, I've yet to driven a car with the B12's. I have used Bilstein shocks in the past and I found them to be somewhat harsh but those were also paired with springs not necessarily designed for those shocks. Ask fellow B12 owners here what their experience has been thus far. But if you don't need the adjustability I would go B12's assuming you're ok with the ride height it provides. Realistically how often are you going to change the ride height on your car? Not sure how easy it is with KW but if the wheels need to come off I bet you won't be doing it much at all. PS - I also considered Koni FSD's but I've read they require frequent rebuilds (unlike Bilsteins)... else I would've considered the FSD's as well. Last edited by 3002 tii; 04-23-2014 at 02:33 PM.. |
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04-23-2014, 01:17 PM | #16 | |
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I'm retaining the stock springs and ride height, so I'm going FSD. |
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04-23-2014, 01:22 PM | #17 | |
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04-23-2014, 01:37 PM | #18 |
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The thing I have seen posted a few times about FSD's... is that they are almost like OE shocks in the ride. ie: rather soft. I think some have even gone from FSD's to Yellows after awhile. I think Koni Yellows are a better choice.
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04-23-2014, 01:48 PM | #19 |
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There's a thread on E90 that had a sale last week for 300 shipped on the front kit. I don't know what the normal price is but it wouldn't hurt to check it out.
EDIT: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=924226 |
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04-23-2014, 01:49 PM | #20 |
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I have powerflex subframe insert with M3 arms, the information and feedback for the car is much clear ! if budget allowed, ohlins is the best chose for trackday and DD ! the best suspension I ever have.
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04-23-2014, 01:55 PM | #21 | |
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KWv3 coilovers, Dinan camber plates, M3 front and rear arms, and white line rear subframe bushings (not inserts). I installed the rear first and drove it almost 150 miles before doing the front. IMO buy in order as funds allow (assuming run flats are long gone!) 1. full subframe bushings (M3 or poly) should be first. 2. Good shocks should be second 3. M3 front arms should be third this combo, which several on the site have, gives that "this car shoulda come like this setup". 4. Next I would say springs (at a rate for what you want) 5. Camber plates (for improved corner carving) 6. Swaybars (to compliment the springs, not as a bandaid for soft stock springs like some on here recommend) 7. Rear M3 arms |
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04-23-2014, 02:01 PM | #22 |
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I did subframe bushings and control arms front and back and the car feels more connected to the road.
Hard to explain but the rear wheels when going over bumps feel part of the rear of the car rather than something hanging off it. (This sounds really weird so can anyone else relate??) The steering feels as sharp as my 350Z was, a lot more pointy and responsive than stock. Overall the car feels more like a go-kart and less like some miniature disconnected cruiser. I do instinctively go faster around corners now, the car kind of eggs you on to do it with these mods and inspires more confidence.
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